Ms200t/g111 build

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Oldtoolsnewproblems

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I decided I needed another hole in the head so I started a new project instead of finishing any others. I'm putting a MS200T together but hit a bit of a snag. I have some "extra" hardware that I don't know where to use it. I've got these 4 shoulder washer looking guys I can't find in the IPL. Are they for the tank bolts to protect the plastic or??
 

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I decided I needed another hole in the head so I started a new project instead of finishing any others. I'm putting a MS200T together but hit a bit of a snag. I have some "extra" hardware that I don't know where to use it. I've got these 4 shoulder washer looking guys I can't find in the IPL. Are they for the tank bolts to protect the plastic or??
Yes, the tank, did you buy a new tank from Farmertech? They insert into the holes.
 
I got the whole saw kit from farmertech as a "gift" for some work I did, so I'm building from there. I gotta say it's nice working from brand new parts that just need a little love, instead of recovering parts from 6 saws that need cleaning and inspection. I used to build car engines for a living, chainsaws aren't that different, just a lot less parts to deal with lol.
Next I'm gonna check the timing on it, and that will help me decide whether or not to delete the base gasket. Squish with no gasket is .019 out of the box, so it's real hard to argue with that, although I might see if I have thinner gasket material to split the difference. Sadly my lathe is not up to the task yet of trimming a cylinder.
 
Just bought replacement and missing parts from the dealer, 90 with shipping. I'll update the build thread when I'm at my PC but overall this looks like it will be nice and straight forward, you just can't be dumb about things
 
I got the whole saw kit from farmertech as a "gift" for some work I did, so I'm building from there. I gotta say it's nice working from brand new parts that just need a little love, instead of recovering parts from 6 saws that need cleaning and inspection. I used to build car engines for a living, chainsaws aren't that different, just a lot less parts to deal with lol.
Next I'm gonna check the timing on it, and that will help me decide whether or not to delete the base gasket. Squish with no gasket is .019 out of the box, so it's real hard to argue with that, although I might see if I have thinner gasket material to split the difference. Sadly my lathe is not up to the task yet of trimming a cylinder.
One thing I discovered with the Farmtech case is the deck isn’t exactly flat so you get an air leak at the cyl. At least the 2 I had weren’t flat By a couple thousandths. Easy fix was bolt the case together. Then I used a plate of thick tempered glass as a flat surface with a sheet of 220 wet/dry sand paper and lightly run the case over the paper until dead flat. Don’t apply pressure, just the weight of the case or you can make it worse 🤪
next. Get some OE bearings. FT ones have over .005 of runout…OE, .001
makes a big difference at the crank ends And the seals will wear prematurely…and leak.
do the 200t muffler mod while your at it.
have fun 😁
 
I was going to do an after action write up, but I guess I should document as I go. I got my kit delivered from... And was shocked to see a 14" bar and chain in the box. I thought I'd be buying those separate from a parts saw. Differently removed a lot of metal filings from the case, also had to debur a lot of sharp edges to protect wires. My purchase list was
Missing parts:
1129 351 3000 foil reflector
1129 442 1600 contacts
1129 440 4000 contacts
1130 448 1201 spark plugs wire retainer
2x 9074 478 4135 P5x20Recoil tank side
0000 893 5903 locking strip

Bad
1125 122 6600 Carb studs unusable
1129 180 0900 coke shaft
1129 185 2000 choke thingy
1129 351 4000 insulating plate
Oil tank cap

I will confess I messed up a bit.i thought the oil cap was defective but when I got the OEM one I realized mine was just sticky and needed to be freed up. I bet it will free up with first use and I can return what I bought. The choke control is very sticky so I replaced that, and the plastic heat shield I feel like should have some more meat to it, so I got a replacement. The carb studs are unusably short
 
One thing I discovered with the Farmtech case is the deck isn’t exactly flat so you get an air leak at the cyl. At least the 2 I had weren’t flat By a couple thousandths. Easy fix was bolt the case together. Then I used a plate of thick tempered glass as a flat surface with a sheet of 220 wet/dry sand paper and lightly run the case over the paper until dead flat. Don’t apply pressure, just the weight of the case or you can make it worse 🤪
next. Get some OE bearings. FT ones have over .005 of runout…OE, .001
makes a big difference at the crank ends And the seals will wear prematurely…and leak.
do the 200t muffler mod while your at it.
have fun 😁
Ugh wish I'd posted a day earlier. I just put the case together the day before. I'll blue the cylinder and see what the contact looks like.
 
Ugh wish I'd posted a day earlier. I just put the case together the day before. I'll blue the cylinder and see what the contact looks like.
Yours may be fine. Make sure to do pressure and vac test. If pressure fails spray soapy water to find the leak(s). Around case and cyl seal and crank seals.

I did a thin coat of Motoseal on the base gasket and case gasket to fix a leaker. It will be a pita to get apart if ever needed :p. But, it sealed.

I’ll bet Wolf has some interesting stories, lol
 
Yours may be fine. Make sure to do pressure and vac test. If pressure fails spray soapy water to find the leak(s). Around case and cyl seal and crank seals.

I did a thin coat of Motoseal on the base gasket and case gasket to fix a leaker. It will be a pita to get apart if ever needed :p. But, it sealed.

I’ll bet Wolf has some interesting stories, lol
Well, their crappy thin intake boot is also junk for starters, you guys already are aware of the case leak, the carb mounting studs and the bearings.
 
Honestly the boot seems fine, I haven't tried to fit the retaining plate on it yet, but they may have improved it? I see a lot of old posts complaining about the oil feed line kinking but mine is great and solid so it's possible the improved some of the flexible goods. That said I'll have a close eye on that boot if it ever starts running poor in the future
 
Honestly the boot seems fine, I haven't tried to fit the retaining plate on it yet, but they may have improved it? I see a lot of old posts complaining about the oil feed line kinking but mine is great and solid so it's possible the improved some of the flexible goods. That said I'll have a close eye on that boot if it ever starts running poor in the future
I think the fuel lines kink too. Especially the impulse part of the dual line.
 
I'll write a bigger post once I get my new flywheel in the mail, but I bought an OEM carb (finally had a paying job so i splurged) and that fixed it instantly. I had already replaced the fuel line but i don't think that was bad, but it did look like it would kink and fail in a year or two. the real issue was the aftermarket carb, the gasket that makes up the fuel pump was slightly overlapping the sealing gasket, so it didn't pump correctly. I haven't tried putting the old carb back on, but i bet if you took a razor to it it would have worked. i'll do that and leave it in the spares bin. a little annoyed at myself, i thought the flywheel had worked loose, but the clutch also worked loose right away, and I'm afraid i might have had it apart ot look at something and forgotten about it, and just ran it with everything finger tight. cost me a flywheel when it spun loose and the crank pin acted like a nice boring bar... for the 10 minutes i got to use the saw however it was quite nice to use, easy starting and idling. i pulled the spark arrestor to let it run cool as possible for the first 3 tanks (planned at least) and will put it back in. I don't know how much of a difference it makes, but the thing sure is loud without it. although with my track record, i should probably check hte muffler bolts...

stupid is expensive.
 

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