MS361 chain oiling problem

[MattFL]

Is there supposed to be a gasket between this plate and the saw body (see picture)?

I've picked up a used MS361 for $100 that was not pumping oil. I just put a new oil pump and gear in it and now it's pumping oil, but the oil isn't getting to the chain. If I run it for a minute or so, the chain does not fling any oil, but when I turn it off there is oil running down under the oil hole and all over the side of the saw. The oil hole on the bar is clean and open. Are there any rubber parts that I should replace, or a missing gasket under the metal plate? You can see some of the oil running down from behind the clutch area in the photo.

 

[LoveStihlQuality]

Go to the Beg For Manuals thread for IPL and repair shop manual. Those guys are great. You'll get it about instantly.

Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk

 

[Wood Doctor]

He doesn't need to go to the BFM thread. Check out my attachments. First, try running the saw with the clutch cover and bar removed. Check to see if any bar oil is being pumped out from the case port. If it is getting there, then the bar's oil holes are likely clogged up tight.

 

[scallywag]

In comparison to other Stihl pro saws the 361 had a low output oil pump.

 

[scallywag]

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/361-oiler-upgrade.289577/

Read post #7 in the above thread.

 

[Lowhog]

Does the oil hole on bar line up with the oil slot?

 

[Andyshine77]

I see some dark spots on the case, are they just dark or has corrosion eaten away at the case? I also think I see a dent, and some mushrooming around the rear bar stud. So check to make sure the case is perfectly flat, this allows the bar to seal to the pad, if the bar isn't seated correctly oil will make it's way to the path of least resistance.

 

[Wood Doctor]

Does the oil hole on bar line up with the oil slot?

Good point. I assumed he was using the correct bar. Sometimes I assume too much.

 

[MattFL]

Thanks all for the info and the attachments, that service manual is great! And wow they want a lot of money for that high volume pump! I'm using the stock Stihl 20" bar and a brand new Stihl chain, are you guys finding the stock pump OK for a bar this length?

There is definitely oil coming out of the oil port when running the saw without the bar. But I think I'm going to install a new pump seal (o-ring) and oil pickup tube just to be sure that it's all sealing up to the pump properly. Can I just pull the oil tube out of the tank where the pump connects to it, next to the clutch?

I'm using the original Stihl bar and a brand new Stihl chain and it all seems to line up, and the oil hole in the bar is clear. BUT I took it all back apart and there is a trough in the paint, potentially allowing the oil to run out instead of going into the bar hole, I wonder if this is where all the oil is going? See the picture circled in red below. Since the paint is coming off, I'll sand the entire end of the bar flat and see if that helps. I also copied a blow up picture of the saw side below, as best I can tell it is all flat in that area.

Side note: For removing the clutch, is there a reason that everywhere recommends jamming the piston with rope or the piston stop tool, instead of using an air impact gun on the clutch nut?

 

[Lowhog]

What type of bar oil are you using?

 

[MattFL]

Just 10-30 motor oil now, I'll pickup some bar oil once the saw is working. It's new oil but has been on the shelf about 10 years so it turned dark.

 

[scallywag]

I purchased a MS361 new and fitted a 20" bar, in my opinion the stock 361 oil pump is far from adequate.

 

[Canyon Angler]

My 361 had two oilers replaced under warranty before I gave up on ever getting my 361 to oil.

I use kerosene to thin the oil and get it to "oil" better...stihl, a tank of oil lasts for about 10-20 tanks of fuel. Bars, not so much. YMMV

 

[buzz sawyer]

Been running my 361 stock for several years now with the oiler adjusted to max and have had no oiling problems. I use about half tank oil to one tank of fuel and see no abnormal bar or chain wear. The bar pictured looks like it needs some TLC on the rail anyway and yes, I would flatten the channel made by the missing paint.

 

[Lowhog]

I agree with the paint on the bar screwing things up. If you rev the saw and the chain slings the oil on the grass or the snow your good to go. I run winter blend bar oil all year round for these new saws that are stingy on using oil.

 

[MattFL]

Thanks guys, I'm headed out to sand down the bar and give it a shot now, I'll report back the results. If that doesn't do the trick then maybe I'll try the high volume pump option.

In regards to the high volume pump (excellent link btw, thank you!); looking around online, it seems the pump itself (part# 1128 640 3250) goes for well over $100. The stock ms361 pump was $38 at my local dealer. Has anyone seen the high volume pump for under $40 at any reputable store? It seems the price should be the same given the minor differences between the two pumps. If not then maybe I'll just get the parts and attempt the upgrade since I have a brand new stock pump to work with.

 

[MattFL]

Well I've got mixed results. I took a flat sander to the end of the bar and it's smooth now. After running it for a minute or so the chain is throwing some oil, but less than my cheap poulan saw. However there is a lot of oil coming out under the clutch area where the wood chips come out. Logically I'm expecting more to fling off near the bar nose, but what do you guys see on your saws?

 

[MattFL]

Quick follow up; I put the bar on minus the chain and after 20-30 seconds or so of easy running I had oil dripping from the nose end of the bar, so it's definitely oiling the bar. And after running for 30 seconds or so with the chain I've got oil everywhere. I used cardboard to see how much if flinging from the chain and it's more than I thought, previously I had it pointed at dark colored wood and it was masking the oil more than I expected. But there is more oil coming out around the clutch area than I expected, but it is dripping off of the shroud so it definitely looks like it was flung there by the chain, as opposed to leaking there. So I'm going to call it good for now and see how it actually performs. If the oil is too skimpy then I'll upgrade the pump and see what that does. Thanks a ton to everyone for the replies, keep your fingers crossed! At this point I'm into this saw for less than $200, so if it completes a couple of big jobs then I'm ahead of the game!

 

[Lowhog]

Bar oil is tacky and sticks to your bar and chain, motor oil will not. Use the proper oil and it should be fine.

 

[CentaurG2]

No modern stihl chainsaw will “sling” oil like the old stuff. They oil just enough to keep the bar from glowing red. Yup the paint will burn off the bottom of the bar. If you are really worried, you can purchase winter bar oil. I think it is 10w vs 30w for the summer stuff.