Multimeter use

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Sorry for the huge link OM617YOTA...

I could not find the /ref or ref/? on this link?
Anyway, will this meter work for my needs? in one of the reviews someone said that there was no DC reading or something? and would only read DC if you pressed SEL. I think I see the OHMS and Hz positions on the dial is this the setting I would want the dial on to see DC voltage? So will I be able to read DC voltage with this unit?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-T...IpluAHwyMdRIsmvkObhoCOroQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
 
Make sure you put high quality batteries in your meter, and not Duracells. You don't want to come back to your meter in six months or a year and find the batteries have leaked and damaged your meter.

You can also pull your batteries out of your meter when you're not using it, but that's a pain, especially since many meters have battery compartments held closed with screws.
I always figured all big box batteries are about the same but what do I know? The comment regarding Duracell would explain why I’ve lost equipment (flashlights, glucose meters, radios, etc) over the years from using what I thought were good batteries. What would you consider a high quality battery?
Also some questions per your recommendation(s):
Good for all around use?
Charge Longevity?
Shelf life?
Thanks much
 
Sorry for the huge link OM617YOTA...

I could not find the /ref or ref/? on this link?
Anyway, will this meter work for my needs? in one of the reviews someone said that there was no DC reading or something? and would only read DC if you pressed SEL. I think I see the OHMS and Hz positions on the dial is this the setting I would want the dial on to see DC voltage? So will I be able to read DC voltage with this unit?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-T...IpluAHwyMdRIsmvkObhoCOroQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds


The /ref is just for Amazon links, not any other site. Looks like the same thing on HD is "?source".

Yes that meter will do DC. Select the V function with the wavy line, then hit the SEL button. The white wavy line represents the AC sine wave, the solid and dashed lines in orange represent DC.

We're really beyond the point where you're going to have to learn electrical basics and start figuring this stuff out on your own. We can direct you to a tool that is capable of doing the job, but if you don't understand the fundamentals behind what was recommended and why, then you won't be capable of doing any diagnostics anyway. You'll just be coming back to us and asking what does this reading mean and why does it matter?

At this point I really recommend you do a lot of reading, and only pull out your wallet after you have a solid grasp of the electrical basics.
 
I always figured all big box batteries are about the same but what do I know? The comment regarding Duracell would explain why I’ve lost equipment (flashlights, glucose meters, radios, etc) over the years from using what I thought were good batteries. What would you consider a high quality battery?
Also some questions per your recommendation(s):
Good for all around use?
Charge Longevity?
Shelf life?
Thanks much

I can't speak to most of that, since I don't have a whole lot of experience with batteries either. It just seems that most of the Duracells I've had have let me down. Duracell car batteries are another story, they're excellent.

I've tried to standardize on AAs, but obviously have a random mix. I do use 10x more AAs than all other batteries combined, and buy in bulk online - more geared to industry or organization usage, not retail sales. Been using Panasonic Industrial cells for a decade, no complaints.

IMG_20230115_095938.jpg

Still treat them like gasoline. Pull them out of the device and store them separately, if you're not using the device. Same way you'd drain a fuel tank and run the carb dry.
 
The /ref is just for Amazon links, not any other site. Looks like the same thing on HD is "?source".

Yes that meter will do DC. Select the V function with the wavy line, then hit the SEL button. The white wavy line represents the AC sine wave, the solid and dashed lines in orange represent DC.

We're really beyond the point where you're going to have to learn electrical basics and start figuring this stuff out on your own. We can direct you to a tool that is capable of doing the job, but if you don't understand the fundamentals behind what was recommended and why, then you won't be capable of doing any diagnostics anyway. You'll just be coming back to us and asking what does this reading mean and why does it matter?

At this point I really recommend you do a lot of reading, and only pull out your wallet after you have a solid grasp of the electrical basics.
Like I have stated before, I am very much uninformed for sure that is why in the very first post I was wondering if there was some sort of reference guide or booklet to explain how to do the sort of tests I would be doing.
I am sure when I say what I am about to say someone will respond with, "yea its all the same principal as testing for household circuits".

Here goes,..what I really needed was a reliable meter (think I have found one now) and a book or a place to read about how to preform small engine electrical diagnostics I expect to be doing. I can always look up a certain test on You Tube to be sure, but I really was hoping for a physical book I could refer too if needed as well. Not so much interested in household AC current.
 
I just went and read the poor reviews on the Cernova? one yea not too much confidence there for me.
Only one person here has mentioned a Klien Brand. That is the brand I thought I would by last summer but why is no one talking about Kline are they not very good? They have a great following in their hand tools I thought.

Watching videos and making notes, just want to thank everyone who helped. Jeff
Keep us informed as to what you get .
 
I will it won't be till the end of the month as long as something else don't crop up. Right now, it looks like the Klien CL 120 KIT on Amazon about $70.00. Also in my cart is a book called, Everything Electrical How To Use All The Functions On Your Multimeter. Don't know if it will help but it might. Like I said I can always go to you tube but I don't like to rely on computers. Never know internet might quit tomorrow.
 
When each child left home, I gave them a tool set & a fluke pen. The pen cost more than the tools set & was worth every penny.
1673831025281.png 1673831187879.png
 
I always figured all big box batteries are about the same but what do I know? The comment regarding Duracell would explain why I’ve lost equipment (flashlights, glucose meters, radios, etc) over the years from using what I thought were good batteries. What would you consider a high quality battery?
Also some questions per your recommendation(s):
Good for all around use?
Charge Longevity?
Shelf life?
Thanks much
Best thing to do is take batteries out when not in use.
 
I always figured all big box batteries are about the same but what do I know? The comment regarding Duracell would explain why I’ve lost equipment (flashlights, glucose meters, radios, etc) over the years from using what I thought were good batteries. What would you consider a high quality battery?
Also some questions per your recommendation(s):
Good for all around use?
Charge Longevity?
Shelf life?
Thanks much
You can put dry cell batteries in the freezer to prolong the shelf life.
I was a mechanic & used my Fluke only a few times a month, so I carried a fluke pen with me & lift my meter n my tool box.
Never had a problem with bad batteries in twenty year.
 
No matter what you pay for a meter, you must know how to have a since of weather it is working properly. All measuring tools SAME Thing. You must have a test to check IE: AA battery test.
Turning selector back and forth once or twice can clear up an anomaly.
Aldi batteries are a good consistent price and I have not had any leakers. This is what I use.
If you like bulk on line Rayovac is not bad; not the longist lasting but no leakers and cheap price.
 
It's worth your time when looking to buy an electrical tester (or any device that uses batteries) to look for one that uses only the 9v type battery if given the choice vs the AAA, AA, C, D type cells. 9v type batteries are less likely to corrode vs the other batteries.
I label my electrical testers as to when new bat's were installed and also label the testers that batteries are removed. Most analog VOM's only use the batteries for the Ohms scale readings and I leave the batteries out of those type testers.

I've seen some expensive equipment ruined due to batteries simply not being removed from the equipment during storage and knowing that the device was going to be not used often.
joli wrote:
You can put dry cell batteries in the freezer to prolong the shelf life.

I have an old operating refrigerator in the shop that I store dry cell batteries of all kinds and also automotive gasket adhesives, silcone gasket makers and glues for long term use.
Wife won't let me use her fridge therefore she is not allowed to look inside my shop fridge.
 
It's worth your time when looking to buy an electrical tester (or any device that uses batteries) to look for one that uses only the 9v type battery if given the choice vs the AAA, AA, C, D type cells. 9v type batteries are less likely to corrode vs the other batteries.

I don't agree. A 9v is just six AAAA batteries in a box. Just as likely to leak.
 
Why not solve the problems with batteries erupting and use Li-ion Battery Cell. They last longer and are stable in your tool and want leak on you and destroy your tool. I learned that lesson with game cams getting destroyed, changed to Li-ion Battery Cell and the problems were solved.
 
Why not solve the problems with batteries erupting and use Li-ion Battery Cell. They last longer and are stable in your tool and want leak on you and destroy your tool. I learned that lesson with game cams getting destroyed, changed to Li-ion Battery Cell and the problems were solved.

Do you mean a separate rechargeable battery, that can take the place of AAs or whatever? If so, please post links, I'm interested!

I don't like anything with a built-in non-replaceable rechargeable battery. They basically mean the tool is trash in a few years. I did just buy a FLIR thermal camera with one, and not happy about it, but just couldn't find a reasonable alternative.
 

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