My Baby Aint Purrin, My Wallets Hurtin and My Hearts is Breakin

[Flouridated]

Maybe miley cyrus, her cats probably been mutilated though.

I was a country singer in a past life

 

[Jkstihl]

I was a country singer in a past life

Hell ya can you sign my saw?

 

[SteveSr]

Well the beak is made of much softer metal than the crank shaft. Also if you pop your first catch on the seal and it starts moving out, stop, rotate the tool around the crank 20 or 30 degrees and pull it lightly again. By the third reset the seal comes out in almost perfect condition. But never reuse the seals, they are toast.
With the stihl puller you still have to slide those prongs in between the rubber part of the seal and the crank. If I remember correctly those prongs seemed like hard metal. With my birds beak you can position the handle either closer or further away from the crank if you are worried about it. That will change the beaks slant if you need it to, I left mine vertical. DON'T BREAK OR BEND THE BEAK, PULL IN IT'S STRONG ORIENTATION. But keep in mind this puller barely needs any force to work, so you would not need to put force onto the crank. I had my 201t and my 372xp open at the time and I pulled all 4 seals in under 5 min. I used to sweat having to pull those seals, now it's no big deal.

One of the main issues with the Stihl puller is that it grabs on the rubber part of the seal and not on the metal surround. This makes it want to slip off. I think that what might work better for either puller is to cut the seal rubber right at the metal with a x-acto knife and put either puller in that gap. This would put the seal lip as a cushion between the crank and puller.

Also this is nothing new. This IS an oil seal puller for larger engines with crankshafts. You just have to mod it so it fits.

When used with a large crankshaft car engine, is this puller designed to be used with the engine assembled? or is it meant to remove the seal once the engine is disassembled (crankshaft not present)?

 

[Jkstihl]

One of the main issues with the Stihl puller is that it grabs on the rubber part of the seal and not on the metal surround. This makes it want to slip off. I think that what might work better for either puller is to cut the seal rubber right at the metal with a x-acto knife and put either puller in that gap. This would put the seal lip as a cushion between the crank and puller.



When used with a large crankshaft car engine, is this puller designed to be used with the engine assembled? or is it meant to remove the seal once the engine is disassembled (crankshaft not present)?

I dont think you are going to get to an oil seal off a vehicle without removing trans for rear main, or crankshaft pully and timing cover for the front seal.

 

[Flouridated]

So I ran my 201t for most of the day today in a hybrid cottonwood and a willow. Runs much better with the new oil seals, chain stops and it doesn't stall. However it still bogs in the meat of a 5+ inch cut and I have to feather the throttle to get it to cut ok, the saw position still affects it and the fuel level still affects it. When the fuel is full it seems fine, but around 3/4 of a tank the problems occur. I think I'll change the intake manifold when I get the chance, but tank level shouldn't affect that. The only things I have left to change in the tank are the tank vent line and the fuel line outside of the tank to the carb. We will see, I probably needed new hoses anyway with the age of the saw.

 

[Flouridated]

One of the main issues with the Stihl puller is that it grabs on the rubber part of the seal and not on the metal surround. This makes it want to slip off. I think that what might work better for either puller is to cut the seal rubber right at the metal with a x-acto knife and put either puller in that gap. This would put the seal lip as a cushion between the crank and puller.
That's a good idea.


When used with a large crankshaft car engine, is this puller designed to be used with the engine assembled? or is it meant to remove the seal once the engine is disassembled (crankshaft not present)?

Couldn't tell ya, I have seen some mechs on youtube do it though. That's how I got the idea. I have my 372 crank shaft out right now and there are no scratches.

 

[Jkstihl]

So I ran my 201t for most of the day today in a hybrid cottonwood and a willow. Runs much better with the new oil seals, chain stops and it doesn't stall. However it still bogs in the meat of a 5+ inch cut and I have to feather the throttle to get it to cut ok, the saw position still affects it and the fuel level still affects it. When the fuel is full it seems fine, but around 3/4 of a tank the problems occur. I think I'll change the intake manifold when I get the chance, but tank level shouldn't affect that. The only things I have left to change in the tank are the tank vent line and the fuel line outside of the tank to the carb. We will see, I probably needed new hoses anyway with the age of the saw.

Id go ahead and just pull her on down for a rebuild, aftermarket piston, caber rings oem fuel line, oem impulse, china carb if you want to keep things cheap. Dont forget to check tank vent if you havent checked it yet. You have got 5 years of service out of it, its getting about that time.

 

[Flouridated]

Hell ya can you sign my saw?

Ya ya, just send me your biggest best saw and I will sign it and send it right back

 

[Jkstihl]

Ya ya, just send me your biggest best saw and I will sign it and send it right back

Hell ill send all of em if you would sign em...haha

 

[Jkstihl]

Ya ya, just send me your biggest best saw and I will sign it and send it right back

Does your username imply that the gov is pumping us full of fluorine?

 

[Flouridated]

Id go ahead and just pull her on down for a rebuild, aftermarket piston, caber rings oem fuel line, oem impulse, china carb if you want to keep things cheap. Dont forget to check tank vent if you havent checked it yet. You have got 5 years of service out of it, its getting about that time.

Yeah it is bout that time. What are caber rings? Is that a brand? and that impulse hose, thanks. That can lose power.

 

[Flouridated]

Does your username imply that the gov is pumping us full of fluorine?

Quiet, they are listening.

 

[TheTone]

One of the main issues with the Stihl puller is that it grabs on the rubber part of the seal and not on the metal surround. This makes it want to slip off. I think that what might work better for either puller is to cut the seal rubber right at the metal with a x-acto knife and put either puller in that gap. This would put the seal lip as a cushion between the crank and puller.

I have found this technique to be very helpful on tiny seals like the 026 flywheel side. I slice the rubber parallel to the metal part and right up against the metal for about 1/8". Then I grab it with tweezers and tear it off. Much easier to get to the "meat" of the seal. Usually not needed on larger seals where there's room to work.