My new Husky is Failing me right out of the box!

[Pitt]

Hi all, thanks in advance for your help and advice.. Let me say that I am a Classic tool time clone like many men.. I am a Mechanic and So I LOVE tools.. I am from NJ and I'm in a small town where I own, count um.... 1 tree.. Yes one tree, yet this did not stop my boy loves toys senses, and so after reading here, I went out and bought BOTH saws raved about here.. a Stihl and a Husqvarna. The husky is the 372xp... The Stihls are a 660, a climbing top handle saw and an 027 that I found in a rich neighbors garbage one night after a storm.. Lucky..

Well the Husky was bought and never used due to that whole 1 tree thing I mentioned until this weekend when I got "the call". You know the one.. The call where a friend needs a Giant Hydraulic jack, a sump pump, an air hammer, something that makes this collecting all worth while! Well He calls and says a tree fell and his small member Homelite 12'' saw failed him.. I say "I'm on the way!".. Well as I stand there all proud, filling my new friend with the blood and plasma that saws rely on.. (gas mix and bar oil), I give her two pulls and vroom, she is off and running.. I patiently sit there and do a decent break in time allowing the saw to take it real easy and continually change the RPM for the entire tank of gas... With no problem,m whatsoever, the trusty saw makes firewood out of said 22' tree... I say " Ah this is what I have been waiting for" drink, my thank you beer and set off back home... Today I go to clean said saw and put it back into inventory, and after I sprayed it down with simple green gave a rub and a DE-sawdusting.. I decided to make sure it was running well...
Two pulls and it starts right up.. 8 SECONDS OF RUNNING WITH THE CHOCK OFF, AND CLACK CLACK CLACK! IT got a HUGE KNOCK THAT SOUNDS LIKE A ROD COMING THROUGH THE BLOCK OF AN OLD CHEVY.
Keep in mind this saw is 1.5 hrs old...

Any thoughts of what went wrong, or what I can do? Being that it sat a few months in the box, I'm guessing this is not something thats covered by a warranty

 

[Sprig]

I'm betting it is something covered, sounds liked it has done calved on you, take it back pronto, at the very least the dealer might be able to tell you whats wrong with it, could be something very simple (sounds like its serious though), but I think that if its still under warrantee its best to return it for some help rather than get into it yourself and run the risk of voiding it. It should be obvious to any dealer with integrity that its still basically new, and, if it is a serious problem maybe the boys at Husky might want to have a look-see at it too, to find out what went wrong. Just my 0.02$ fer the evening, and oh, Welcome to AS man!



Serge

 

[belgian]

I'm betting it is something covered, sounds liked it has done calved on you, take it back pronto, at the very least the dealer might be able to tell you whats wrong with it, could be something very simple (sounds like its serious though), but I think that if its still under warrantee its best to return it for some help rather than get into it yourself and run the risk of voiding it. It should be obvious to any dealer with integrity that its still basically new, and, if it is a serious problem maybe the boys at Husky might want to have a look-see at it too, to find out what went wrong. Just my 0.02$ fer the evening, and oh, Welcome to AS man!



Serge

I agree with Serge. If you are not confortable in diagnosing yourself what the problem is, take it back to your dealer asap. This is surely a warranty case if there's a mechanical failure.

Give it a quick look at the chain department to find if something is wrong. If you pull the starter rope, is the mechanical noise inside the engine, starter assy ?

Dealer visit might be the safest decision.

PS. Let us know the outcome of the diagnosis. Many of us would like to know what happened to the Queen of Saws, LOL.

 

[TreeWizard]

I sure hope you mixed the right amount of oil with your gas.

 

[jrparbor04]

my stihls are stihl running,,,,,hope you get your saw fixed,,,sounds bad to me

 

[DGG]

I'd like to hear what that was. Please let us know.

 

[Engineeringnerd]

Could be your ignition coil bolts loosening and the coil hitting the flywheel each revolution. It's easy to check by removing the side panel and seeing if the coil is loose and if it has clearance thru a whole rotation of the flywheel. If so, it may be easy to fix if it didn't mess up the flywheel too much. If just the coil is hosed, you can get a non-limited coil from one of the sponsors for about $45, which is a good change-out anyway. If it is the coil, use Loctite! I had to Loctite all my cover screws on my 372 after I lost 2 in the first day of cutting (and the shop wanted $1.45 each!!). I don't understand why Husky doesn't use Loctite on their fasteners during assembly.

If its a rod.....

 

[Pitt]

I will check it out.. I loose bolt sounds like a lovely cause I removed the plug and It makes no horrible noise until you give it a good pull. I as thinking that if its was a rod knock, there should be either much less or much more friction on the puller.. its consistent.. MMMM

 

[Pitt]

On another note.. I am looking through The warranty and its Fine and very fair w 2 years coverage.. Whats not good is when I look through the "dealer repair centers" My local center is a Home Depot! I think I rather Fix the saw wearing mittens and using my feet before I hand it to the shlub at home depot. My other option is a local guy who is knows for selling you repainted used parts as new. So when the old lady's bring in their mowers for a tune up, they sometimes come back with different parts like coils, carbs etc... He's not touching my stuff either..

 

[Engineeringnerd]

If it's the coil and the parts are o.k., just use a business card as a gap between the coil and the magnet on the flywheel. Just make sure you rotate it to the smallest point of gap before you tighten the bolts. May even be a good idea to remove the card before you run it!

Good luck, the 372 is a fine saw.

 

[Pitt]

Ha ha. Don't laugh about that card, The new guy at work just put on some brake pads backing side in toward the rotors today.. Made a noise similar to my chain saw.. I have feeler gages, any idea what the gap is set at between the coil and flywheel?

 

[Engineeringnerd]

Playing card or business card is the most common method mentioned on the site. One person answered 0.3mm when I was adjusting mine, but I don't know his source or accuracy.

I think a card works really well as it allows you to align the gap over the entire interface instead of just a point as with a feeler gauge.

Anybody out there have a good coil gap number with a reliable source stated?

 

[Sprig]

Some good advice being bandied about, I just had another thought, is it possible one of the clutch pawls has a broken spring or something has popped out or broken, that fer sure would make a racket, just curious and wonderin', its an easy check I think, pull cover, pull bell, have a look-see at the assembly, don't think havin' a look would void anything btw. Hm, though there would be a 'pinging-ringing' sound I'd imagine, dunno, as always I stand to be corrected, reprimanded, whipped and chained

(and do let us know whats up when you find out please)

Serge

 

[Pitt]

Well thanks folks for all the help. I Just got the official word that My 2 hr at most, old pro series Husky has broken its crank and sent said crank into its block making a non leaking crack. At least I didn't see it, or notice any fluid..
one for the Stihl gang I guess..

 

[Timberhauler]

Well thanks folks for all the help. I Just got the official word that My 2 hr at most, old pro series Husky has broken its crank and sent said crank into its block making a non leaking crack. At least I didn't see it, or notice any fluid..
one for the Stihl gang I guess..

I'm a fan of both Stihl and Husky....If the saw is that new,then it shouldn't cost you anything to have it fixed.I seized the crank bearings on a brand new 460 a while back and it was taken care of...That's a good saw,you probably just got one of the rare lemons.It does happen from time to time

 

[MAG58]

Playing card or business card is the most common method mentioned on the site. One person answered 0.3mm when I was adjusting mine, but I don't know his source or accuracy.

I think a card works really well as it allows you to align the gap over the entire interface instead of just a point as with a feeler gauge.

Anybody out there have a good coil gap number with a reliable source stated?

This is from a workshop manual

 

[belgian]

Well thanks folks for all the help. I Just got the official word that My 2 hr at most, old pro series Husky has broken its crank and sent said crank into its block making a non leaking crack. At least I didn't see it, or notice any fluid..
one for the Stihl gang I guess..

Sure warranty case. You should get a new saw imo.

 

[manual]

Well thanks folks for all the help. I Just got the official word that My 2 hr at most, old pro series Husky has broken its crank and sent said crank into its block making a non leaking crack. At least I didn't see it, or notice any fluid..
one for the Stihl gang I guess..

Sure warranty case. You should get a new saw imo.

Yes, you are covered.

Unless you were milling, and you seen it cracked the next day.


No realy, take it back to a dealer.

 

[aarcuda]

youre not adding oil to the gas, are you?

 

[Pitt]

youre not adding oil to the gas, are you?

Oil? of course not! I would never dirty my pretty saw by putting oil in it:biggrinbounce2: