Brmorgan
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After finally getting fed up with the growing pile of "good" firewood pieces that I refuse to burn and hope to getting something out of, I built a resaw jig over my Christmas holidays. I took a little inspiration from BobL's jig and some commercial products I've seen over the years.
Here's the finished product mounted on the tablesaw. I fortunately, or rather unfortunately, have an old POS $50 special yardsale tablesaw, so I just did the welding right on it, making sure to not heat the table up too much to warp it. And no, I didn't do the work with my good blade up like that, I was just checking for parallel!
A side view of the jig. The jack bolts are 3/4" coarse thread, about 13" long.
Closer view of the jack bolt. The front fence rail is 1" low-profile Unistrut rail. The guide for the table's slot is a 2' long piece of 3/4" shaft keystock. It's poker straight and slides like butter in both machines.
To hold the jack bolt secure to the fence but still allow it to turn, I had to create some sort of hold. I cut one side out of a wide 3/4" washer, and welded the other side to a spacer block the same thickness as the nut welded to the end of the jack bolt. It works pretty good, but is just a bit tight. I'll need to file it a bit. All the black crap on the close nut is graphite spray lube. It works pretty good but is a mess. You can also see the 1/2" stabilizer rod and lock collar that I use to lock the jig to a specific depth. Since the fence isn't secured directly to the jack bolts, it would float without these.
I drilled 1/4" holes 1" apart on the angle iron end rails and welded 1/4" X 20NC nuts over them. I ground a point on the end of a few short 1/4" bolts to use as end dogs. They can be driven in very tight and secure. You can also see the springnut that secures the rail to the Unistrut.
Here's the finished product mounted on the tablesaw. I fortunately, or rather unfortunately, have an old POS $50 special yardsale tablesaw, so I just did the welding right on it, making sure to not heat the table up too much to warp it. And no, I didn't do the work with my good blade up like that, I was just checking for parallel!
A side view of the jig. The jack bolts are 3/4" coarse thread, about 13" long.
Closer view of the jack bolt. The front fence rail is 1" low-profile Unistrut rail. The guide for the table's slot is a 2' long piece of 3/4" shaft keystock. It's poker straight and slides like butter in both machines.
To hold the jack bolt secure to the fence but still allow it to turn, I had to create some sort of hold. I cut one side out of a wide 3/4" washer, and welded the other side to a spacer block the same thickness as the nut welded to the end of the jack bolt. It works pretty good, but is just a bit tight. I'll need to file it a bit. All the black crap on the close nut is graphite spray lube. It works pretty good but is a mess. You can also see the 1/2" stabilizer rod and lock collar that I use to lock the jig to a specific depth. Since the fence isn't secured directly to the jack bolts, it would float without these.
I drilled 1/4" holes 1" apart on the angle iron end rails and welded 1/4" X 20NC nuts over them. I ground a point on the end of a few short 1/4" bolts to use as end dogs. They can be driven in very tight and secure. You can also see the springnut that secures the rail to the Unistrut.
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