Need a new valve, any recomendations?

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J

jasoutside

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So this is a follow up on my original post

http://arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=105585

I took it over to my local Hydrolic guy and he said that my valve is toast. He gave it to me in a box and told me to pick one up at TSC as if he were to buy one and have it shipped it would cost me an arm and a leg. I though that was good of him to give me that option.

I have attached a couple of photos of my old valve. So what should I replace it with? I am a bit of a rookie in this area.

TSC:

http://www.tractorsupply.com/webapp...10551_10001_34174_-1______?rFlag=true&cFlag=1

http://www.tractorsupply.com/webapp...&langId=-1&storeId=10551&ddkey=http:ClickInfo

I also checked on the Northern Tool website and there are a bunch on there too.

What do ya think fellas? Thanks!
 
Northern tool, cost less than those cross units. Prince valve $80 kinda the standard item 2020-2001 or for a higher flow 2035-2001 $100.
If you go to princes web sight they have another at $350 which can speed up operation by causing automatic retraction of ram at end of splitting stroke. Thing is I know that 80% of the time I do not use the whole stroke when splitting, so for me it would be a waste of cash. Hope this helps
 
Good thoughts, thanks!

blades said:
Northern tool, cost less than those cross units. Prince valve $80 kinda the standard item 2020-2001 or for a higher flow 2035-2001 $100.
If you go to princes web sight they have another at $350 which can speed up operation by causing automatic retraction of ram at end of splitting stroke. Thing is I know that 80% of the time I do not use the whole stroke when splitting, so for me it would be a waste of cash. Hope this helps
Click to expand...
 
blades said:
Northern tool, cost less than those cross units. Prince valve $80 kinda the standard item 2020-2001 or for a higher flow 2035-2001 $100.
If you go to princes web sight they have another at $350 which can speed up operation by causing automatic retraction of ram at end of splitting stroke. Thing is I know that 80% of the time I do not use the whole stroke when splitting, so for me it would be a waste of cash. Hope this helps
Click to expand...

When you buy one, look for one that is easy to repair. Most of the time it’s just the o-rings that go bad. Also look for one that has the automatic return. I can’t remember the name of the one I had years ago buy I could set the return and it would hold the cycle in place. If you have two people splitting or a lot of time on your hands you wouldn’t need it but a good part of your time is holding the lever in a return cycle. Caution!! You get what you pay for..
 
I am in the hydraulic business and we sell a lot of Prince & Brand and they both are good quality valves. I prefer Brand due to their customer service and after market support.

Check out these 2 companies that sell online at reasonable prices:
baileynet.com
daltonnet.com

I hope this helps
 
i replaced a speedco (original on Troy-bilt splitter) with a brand valve. to replace the speedco would have been $220 and the original was a POS anyway... got a brand for $70 or $80 - cant remember. ive been happy with it so far. it has adjustable detent pressure and if you go to their website you can get schematics and parts for all their valves. with the speedco you couldnt do this. i like components that you can repair and get parts for.
 
Another common splitter valve is a Energy brand valve made in Iowa and they have a on-line store $85.00 +shipping.

P.S self contained splitters use a open center valve. Splitters using remote hydraulics from a tractor often use a closed center valve.
 
boostnut said:
Got one of these on my splitter.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009091107475936&item=9-7724&catname=hydraulic

I had on old Energy valve take a dump and replaced it with this one for 60 bucks, easy to disassemble, adjust, replace o-rings......
Click to expand...

This is the same one I had on my log splitter. Worked for 15 years until someone needed the splitter more than me.

I used a 20 pound lp tank as a reservoir, 12ft / 8 inch I beam and had it set up so the end could slide to split fire wood or on the long stroke I could split logs for fence post. Dummy me was to cheap to put on a filter so I would need to change the o-rings after a few years. That control should be more than enough flow. Looks like the only thing that has changed it the connector between the lever and the main rod. The old ones were made of cast.
 
triptester said:
Another common splitter valve is a Energy brand valve made in Iowa and they have a on-line store $85.00 +shipping.

P.S self contained splitters use a open center valve. Splitters using remote hydraulics from a tractor often use a closed center valve.
Click to expand...

Hopefully not to hijack the thread...but what's the difference between open or closed center valves? I'm a hydraulics rookie and building a splitter to work off my mini-Bobcat (literally right now, was hosing it up last night)...I have that valve from Surplus Center that is linked below...it says "open center" did I screw up and get the wrong valve?
I was wondering what was going to happen when the bobcat was pumping fluid but the splitter was just sitting....was hoping the valve would return the fluid to the bobcat resevoir and not just build pressure....is that would a "closed center" valve would do? Crap...

The twist is that eventually I wanted to be able to run the splitter off a traditional "self contained" motor/hydraulics unit and just use the bobcat for the big stuff...do I need a differenent valve for each setup?....double crap...
 
With an open center valve fluid is always moving either to the cylinder or back to the tank. This is the typical valve used on self contained units with a positive displacement pump.

I am not familiar with mobile hydraulic equipment but I believe when using the quick connect auxiliary fittings a closed center valve is required. Maybe some of the other members that use tractor hook-ups will have a correct answer.
 
Actually that sounds like what I was hoping it would do...judging by the fact that when I flick the Bobcat's aux hydraulic levers with nothing hooked up it builds pressure and bogs the engine down...I think I wasnt fluid moving back to the tank all the time....we'll see I guess :)
 

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