Need advice-hung up tree removal

[smokinj]

I am not looking at any proprty damage here.....ok maybe move the bench Not sure how many people that could take?

 

[Haywire Haywood]

got to love weekend wood cutters not

Looks like the "weekend wood cutters" have hard hats, harnesses and a crane.

Ian

 

[tomtrees58]

Looks like the "weekend wood cutters" have hard hats, harnesses and a crane.

Ian

yup i do the biggest nastys trees here on L I

 

[tomtrees58]

Looks like the "weekend wood cutters" have hard hats, harnesses and a crane.

Ian

you think its homeowner work

 

[smokinj]

Dont think the Op's tree going to measure up here.

 

[banshee67]

got to love weekend wood cutters not

you probably just offended about half the forum members with that comment..
especially in the firewood section! lol

 

[Noko]

Here is what I would do.
However, cut the tree at your own risk.

(1) Climb the tree from the bottom to the hung up spot, and cut off tops, and come back to the bottom.

(2) Lay a good size round or two under the tree where the top side of the trunk is about your shoulder height, and cut/buck the trunk from good side, so that cut trunks roll away from you, if they do.

(3) See if you can pull the trunk (using the round like a wheel) away from the hung up with whatever you have. If not, repeat step (2) until you can pull the trunk away from the hung up or until you no longer need to pull the trunk away from the hung up.

 

[Philbert]

Here is what I would do.
However, cut the tree at your own risk.
(1) Climb the tree from the bottom to the hung up spot,

Please don't do this!! You have seen the cartoons, right, where the guy is sitting on the limb and cutting on the wrong side, right?

That tree is unstable, and you should not be standing on it, under it, or in the path that it might fall.

Even creative ideas like packing the crotch with dynamite would be a better approach.

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

Looking on the positive side, this house probably will benefit from a bunch of LEED credits: natural daylight; fresh air circulation; incorporation of natural 'green' elements; rainwater collection; improved egress; etc.

Philbert

 

[Burvol]

Hung up/wound up timber rule of thumb: Cut from side that will pinch you out, not break your leg LOL

 

[StihlyinEly]

Well, Peter, maybe I'm underthinking this, but I don't see a big problem. I've run into this situation probably a dozen times over the years doing tree service work.

I'd first trim off whatever branches were in the way that I could reach (carefully from an extension ladder or with my pole pruner). Then cut off the top of the hung section just beyond where it protrudes from the standing tree fork, so it's still hung in the fork. Not sure how far off the ground it is, but a simple short ladder against the standing tree and a few steps up should take care of that easily.

Then I'd come around and take off the other top, the one that's not hung, and I'd take it off a couple feet or so short of the standing tree, so it wouldn't be able to jam against the trunk when the fallen tree eventually twists/drops. A simple extension ladder, firmly anchored, should easily suffice, although you'll be cutting to your left for that part, which can be awkward, so take a little extra care.

OK, so now you've got the top off, and what's holding up matters (hey, a pun) is just that one section of the tree stuck in the crotch of the standing tree.

I'd go back to the trunk/stump and work from there, bucking the trunk with undercuts to firewood length. Each undercut will result in the trunk dropping back to the ground, so you won't be cutting above your head. Eventually, at some point, you'll run out of trunk, and the weight/angle of what remains will either pull the hung section out of the fork or wedge it in tighter. If it pulls it out, you're golden. If it stays hung with the trunk portion suspended off the ground, you can carefully buck your way up toward the crotch (cutting down through the log this time), minding the torsion that's going to result as you work through the broken/split section.

When what remains is lightweight enough, push it out with a strong back, strong legs and a pole. Or dally a rope around it and pull it out with a pickup.

I have never had a problem doing what I described. It surely helps to have a buddy or two around to lend a hand, but I've done it solo three or four times.

All that being said, your results may vary, and you of course are proceeding absolutely at your own risk.

Good luck with it. Lots of great BTUs waiting there.

 

[Burvol]

Well, Peter, maybe I'm underthinking this, but I don't see a big problem. I've run into this situation probably a dozen times over the years doing tree service work.

I'd first cut off the top of the hung section just beyond where it protrudes from the standing tree fork, so it's still hung in the fork. Not sure how far off the ground it is, but a simple short ladder against the standing tree and a few steps up should take care of that easily.

Then I'd come around and take off the other top, the one that's not hung, and I'd take it off a couple feet or so short of the standing tree, so it wouldn't be able to jam against the trunk when the fallen tree eventually twists/drops.

OK, so now you've got the top off, and what's holding up matters (hey, a pun) is just that one section of the tree stuck in the crotch of the standing tree.

I'd go back to the trunk/stump and work from there, bucking the trunk with undercuts to firewood length. Each undercut will result in the trunk dropping a little more. Eventually, at some point, you'll run out of trunk, and the weight/angle of what remains will either pull the hung section out of the fork or wedge it in tighter. If it pulls it out, you're golden. If it stays hung with the trunk portion suspended off the ground, you can carefully buck your way up toward the crotch (cutting down through the log this time), minding the torsion that's going to result as you work through the broken/split section.

When what remains is lightweight enough, push it out with a strong back, strong legs and a pole. Or dally a rope around it and pull it out with a pickup.

I have never had a problem doing what I described. It surely helps to have a buddy or two around to lend a hand, but I've done it solo three or four times.

All that being said, your results may vary, and you of course are proceeding absolutely at your own risk.

Good luck with it. Lots of great BTUs waiting there.

Arrogant, dumb, whatever, it doesn't matter. You can't teach some things on the internet, like how to be an accomplished sawyer. The more stuff like this you tackle and survive the more you will grow. This is a nasty business at times.

 

[StihlyinEly]

You can't teach some things on the internet, like how to be an accomplished sawyer. The more stuff like this you tackle and survive the more you will grow. This is a nasty business at times.

I agree with all that.

However, if we take the OP at his word, he knows his way around a saw, has bucked a lot and felled a bit. A guy like that who wants a little help for something a bit more advanced (not really THAT advanced), probably will be able to take how-to comments that are clearly written and apply them, if he decides to go forward.

And it for sure can be a nasty business. No reason AS has to be nasty, too. I'm not aiming that at you, Burvol, I'm just saying.

 

[angelo c]

Peter,
I must be missing something, there is a Kubota in your sig, can you NOT get that machine to the site ? or is it too small to use ? We've pulled out similar snags with a 30hp tractor and some wedges and rope. Yup rope. I would suggest chains or cables and winches. Of course after the canopy is cut out. Looks like you have plenty of room to pull straight out of snag or maybe winch around a tree for some better angle.

Call me crazy but I would rather load and unload a borrowed tractor/backhoe/dozer then risk an arm or leg to some injury. If the client isn't willing to pay for professional equiptment then walk away to the next job. Amazingly wood DOES grow on trees. And there is always another tree somewhere that's easier to get.

As always tree work is fun for most of us and work for some. Injury is never fun and always work for the Doctors.

 

[Burvol]

I agree with all that.

However, if we take the OP at his word, he knows his way around a saw, has bucked a lot and felled a bit. A guy like that who wants a little help for something a bit more advanced (not really THAT advanced), probably will be able to take how-to comments that are clearly written and apply them, if he decides to go forward.

And it for sure can be a nasty business. No reason AS has to be nasty, too. I'm not aiming that at you, Burvol, I'm just saying.

Oh I agree completely. I just point out the obvious and I am too blunt at times. Like, "Cut from bind side, not busted leg side". That stuff is funny if your a logger, I don't care who you are LOL. I try to laugh at all the bad stuff I have gone through, even the serious injuries. There are good and bad things all over this instance. The bad being injured or equipment being destroyed. He will learn and grow. We all do.

 

[PineFever]

If you are really going to try the take down, use the tree to the left in your third picture to your advantage. Either climb the the tree, or get an extension ladder, install a whoopie sling with clevis or pulley about 10 feet higher that the leaner. Run a bull-rope thru the clevis or pulley and tie off the leaner (not the cracked section that is hung in the forked crotch) a foot or so towards the base, put some tension on the tree and wrap your bull rope around an adjacent tree a couple of times and tie it off. This way when you remove the top of the cracked wedged side on the side facing the base the tree will not drop or roll toward you. The cracked top will remain resting in the fork for removal at your discretion. Then untie the bull-rope and lower the tied off side to the ground where you can safely complete the removal. If you can afford it why not call a professional in to do the removal or at least get it to the ground, Then you take care of the rest yourself. Not only would the problem be taken care of but you will learn lots watching him/her work.
Good luck and be careful

 

[tomtrees58]

you probably just offended about half the forum members with that comment..
especially in the firewood section! lol

but my wood don't have bugs lol

 

[BryanEx]

The biggest problem I see is that Peter states the crotch is close to 14' high. If it was at 4' it would be easy enough to sort out for a ground level cutter but I don't see how it can be done safely without at least some pulling power involved. The canopy needs to come off but how do you do that without doing one of the many dumb things posted on utube - cutting from the bucket on a front end loader, using an extension ladder, climbing the trunk, etc. If Peter has or can get some pull he has a shot but otherwise he will be "spinning the wheel" to see if he gets hurt (or worse). Either way it may not matter because he hasn't returned to this thread since his original post anyway.

 

[StihlyinEly]

The biggest problem I see is that Peter states the crotch is close to 14' high. If it was at 4' it would be easy enough to sort out for a ground level cutter but I don't see how it can be done safely without at least some pulling power involved. The canopy needs to come off but how do you do that without doing one of the many dumb things posted on utube - cutting from the bucket on a front end loader, using an extension ladder, climbing the trunk, etc. If Peter has or can get some pull he has a shot but otherwise he will be "spinning the wheel" to see if he gets hurt (or worse). Either way it may not matter because he hasn't returned to this thread since his original post anyway.

Yeah, 14 feet is pretty high. Looked more like 8-10 in the pic. You'd need a good extension ladder for that one if you don't have heavy equipment or climbing gear. I missed the fork height in the OP. I'd be comfortable doing it from a long enough standard extension ladder. I've done it often enough before. With care/precautions, it CAN be done safely. It's only two cuts with a light saw, and I've never had heavy equipment for my tree work, so I've gotten used to doing it low tech.

That being said, it ain't up to me whether to climb up and cut that tree.

Also a pretty simple matter to rent a pole chainsaw for those cuts if one is available in the area.

 

[smokinj]

Start at the butt end there is very little weight on it easier than bucking it on the ground worse case you need a wedge.