need advice removing 372XP clutch

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The jaws are suppose to hold the bearings in the crank case,Then you remove the bearings with heat about 300 degrees and the bearings will about fall out.Freeze your bearings stick them in the crank case while it's hot.If you get them started straight they will fall in.But at this point you have to act fast if they don't start straight you'll have beat it in with a bearing driver or a socket the size of the outside of the bearing.
 
as far as models go, I see 372XP and 372 XP X-torq. from reading I assume the X-torq is a strato saw and the XP is not. I've looked at a lot of pictures of 372 XP's during my parts search, and mine says air injection on the starter but most I see do not say that on the decal. I get what the air injection is, a cooling method for the cylinder and I assume all the 372 XP's have air injection. does the fact that mine says air injection on the decal make it an early model 372 XP?
 
as far as models go, I see 372XP and 372 XP X-torq. from reading I assume the X-torq is a strato saw and the XP is not. I've looked at a lot of pictures of 372 XP's during my parts search, and mine says air injection on the starter but most I see do not say that on the decal. I get what the air injection is, a cooling method for the cylinder and I assume all the 372 XP's have air injection. does the fact that mine says air injection on the decal make it an early model 372 XP?
Air Injection has nothing to donwith cooling as all chainsaws are fan cooled.
Rather it's a system of feeding cyclonicly seperated air too the air box to prolong air filter life.
 
did not know that. I watched a YouTube by husqvarna and I must have misunderstood. they had an animation and it looked like the air was moved by the flywheel thru a plastic horn and showed the air going to the cooling fins on the cylinder. I need to watch it again.
 
did not know that. I watched a YouTube by husqvarna and I must have misunderstood. they had an animation and it looked like the air was moved by the flywheel thru a plastic horn and showed the air going to the cooling fins on the cylinder. I need to watch it again.
The air box draws suction from the flywheel such that the heavier saw dust particle are expelled over the cylinder fins and the relatively cleaner air does to the air box. Thus keeping the filter cleaner longer.
 
good afternoon gents. a few weeks ago, I bought 3 pretty rough saws from a fella whose dad had owned a small tree service. a MAC P1000, Stihl MS440 and the above-mentioned Husky 372XP. taking the XP apart and got to the clutch. I made a clutch removal tool from a 1-1/16 socket. put the piston about 1/2" below TDC and filled it up with the same line I've used for all the other saws I've fixed. first, I tried my trusty long handled right angle needle nose pliers manually, which sometimes works. next I tried my 18v Makita impact, never had it fail before, but it did this time. didn't want to go crazy so next I used my piece of crap HF earthquake 1/2" air impact. no use, as usual. last I used my 1/2" snap on. this thing is bad ass and still no go. I'm aware the clutch comes off with reverse thread (clockwise) and it is marked so with arrows. haven't tried heat yet. any ideas?
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For one, when you use rope to block the piston it cushions the impact. Kinda like a torq stick. You won't get full impact. I'd put a solid threaded plug in to stop the piston and use a breaker bar.
 
I've made a complete list of parts that are missing and parts that are worn out just or are prudent to replace while the saw is apart. of course, it's a lot more than I figured on, it always is :rolleyes: . I'm going to use OEM for piston, rings, wrist pin, circlips, all bearings and crank seals. to keep the cost down, may use after market for rubber parts and a few other things. hoping for some input from ya'll on some aftermarket stuff.
PXL_20231101_163204630.MP.jpg
brake handle - are AM as robust as oem? do they flex more or break?
fuel tank - mine is missing most of the parts in with the trigger and the throttle cable doesn't look great. new AM ones come with all that plus new anti-vibe and fuel line and filter. plus, mine is just damn ugly. are they any good?
clutch - as mentioned above, broke the clutch when removing it plus the clutch drum and rim sprocket are worn badly. AM ok?
plastic - not sure if I'm going to do but probably. I'm a whore for my stuff looking good. is any AM brand better than another for fit and how thick or robust the parts are?
 
Nachi or NTN will save you $ on bearings. Hiway gasket/seals are of good quality as well.

You could dye the plastic black so it all matched. AM plastic is fine but I try and limit it to top covers or air filter covers. AM tanks tend to leak at the seams and they usually need oem caps or at least new o rings or gaskets on the caps. And you’ll want to replace the AM fuel line with oem
 
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