Need help on buying a Husqvarna 3120

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WestcoastCustomTimber

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Hey Everyone!

I am new to this forum.

I came across a Husqvarna 3120xp. serial number 6080031, I assume it is a 1996, built in the 8 week and is 31 in production. Correct me if I am wrong.

It has a brand new 42'' Oregon bar and chain, never seen wood. the saw it self is in 20 year condition, it is faded, and there are scratches and a crack in the air cleaner top. It starts and runs good, has had a new spark plug and wire 2 months ago. so far the seller and I have agreed on $900, and I will personally go and cut with it next week to further seal our deal. or re negotiate. he needs the money. I a big saw. Is this a good deal considering its 20 years old? I know they are hard to find, (I would buy a stihl 880 if I could find one, Im not loyal to either one.) and priced out one new with the same bar and after tax I would looking at just over $2600. It is a huge jump for a saw that will only get used once in awhile. The new saws are auto oilers, and this one is a manual oiler. Running it on the mill, I could put a small oil tank with a valve at the other end of the bar near the end and drip it. they recommend that any how.

Im looking to use it on my 48'' Alaskan mill, (will have to buy a bigger bar when needed) I want to save my Stihl 460 from any more hard work, its already stretched with the 36'' bar its running. and being its a new saw, I don't want burn it out.

I run a sawmill business, and own a wood-mizer LT35HDG mill I bought this year new. I find there is still a demand to use the alaskan mill from time to time depending on log locations, and size of logs. I have a Douglas fir log that was dropped off by a logging company that is 25' by 58'' in diameter. so whether I mill it down or quarter it, I will need some power behind a saw.

Thank you for help guys, I don't know whether i need to be talked in to this saw or out. Ive been looking for a big saw for along time now, and this is the first to come up. if anyone had a saw like this one and near its age, 1996-2001 seem to be unchanged. what were the problems and what to watch for.

Chad
 
Got a picture of the saw and the oiler button? To my knowledge the 3120 didn't have a manual oiler button, it was automatic. I could be wrong though. Please share a pic if you can. See the upload file button below the reply box or use a free hosting site like photo bucket and paste the
code in a reply.

Welcome to the site. Someone will be along that can answer your questions better than I.
 
Sorry about the size, I hope those work.

As you can on the back end, it has a manual oiler. little picture of a chain link. the newer models have an auto oiler
 
it is an oiler override but 99% of them don't even work lol they are either stuck on or off. the lever should click into postion and stay there until the center is pressed in which will release it. those work about 10% of the time. my opinion on this saw is it's a good price especially considering it's CAD and it will have the old style coil/flywheel. the newer saws have a limit so low it makes then damn near unusable. the carb also has a fixed high speed jet rather then an adjustable needle. i have seen guys get a good amount of time out of them milling even factory but they are really to lean for the job. run 32:1 and ream the fixed jet slightly larger. carb mod to fit high speed needle is also a possibility. for occasional use it will be fine stock on 32:1
 
Cool, I learned something new about the oiler.

Is it me or does the top handle look like it's bent? Looks like something fell on it and smooched it to me.

Even if it has been it seems like a fair price. One thing I would recommend is taking the muffler off and looking at the piston through he exhaust port. That's a pretty standard thing to do when buying a 2 stroke IMO.
 
Thank you everyone for the great info, I will pick up the saw mid next week, few things I will go over first, thanks to the info I've received here.

As for the handle, I compared it to the other pictures it seems to have similar bends and a weird shape like the others, however I have a theory that maybe it was dropped on its side, and bent the handle over a bit more, and caused the small cracks.

Nonetheless if that's all that's wrong, I'll buy a new handle, and new plastic. My main concern is that it's got good compression and has lots of power cutting thru wood.

My local husqvarna mechanic said to try picking the saw up by the pull cord and said the compression should be able to hold the weight of the saw. If the saw turns over from that he said likely it's running low compression and needs engine work. He did say that's not as accurate as putting a compression gauge on it, but a quick easy thing to try.

I will take some tools with and pull the muffler off too like stated on here.

Thanks again guys!
 
My local husqvarna mechanic said to try picking the saw up by the pull cord and said the compression should be able to hold the weight of the saw. If the saw turns over from that he said likely it's running low compression and needs engine work. He did say that's not as accurate as putting a compression gauge on it, but a quick easy thing to try.

I will take some tools with and pull the muffler off too like stated on here.

Thanks again guys!

I have a 3120 with no base gasket and newer rings, and it won't hold up the powerhead. Remember, that is a heavy saw.
 
Compression gauge is a cheap peace of mind. Should be able to check compression and pull the muffler in a matter of minutes.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I have a 3120 with no base gasket and newer rings, and it won't hold up the powerhead. Remember, that is a heavy saw.

I have an 076 completely untouched and it will hold itself up. I'm not saying that it means low compression but the 076 is a boat anchor as well and I can hold it up by the pull cord.
 

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