need help with my saws idling

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voxac30dude

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is it just me or do the cheaper husqys idle ruff? my husky 435 sounds verry ruff and jumpy when idling( jumpy as in it makes a clunk cu clunkklunk cu clunk cu cu clunk noise). isn't it supposed to idle smoothly like all the rest of my saws?
 
my guess is that youcan go a little bit richer on the low jet. I think you need a special tool though. Is it almost engaging the chain? It may be excessive idle speed too but my guess is that you're a little lean on the low.
 
is it just me or do the cheaper husqys idle ruff? my husky 435 sounds verry ruff and jumpy when idling( jumpy as in it makes a clunk cu clunkklunk cu clunk cu cu clunk noise). isn't it supposed to idle smoothly like all the rest of my saws?

That depends on if it is idling to fast or to slow ?
is the chain close to turning ?
is the idle low so saw almost dies ?
does the throttle respond quickly when you pull it off idle ? or does it lag when you squeeze the trigger ?
 
Try dropping the intake lobe below .500 and shorten the duration below 180*.
:monkey:

Pioneerguy600

Ok, you guys...enough of the Chevy talk...Seriously though, my Husky 353 has a very good idle. I think the previous owner removed the caps on the adjustments, which is what is usually needed. The stock system is probably set too lean which also ain't good for pistons. I richened it up a little more than it was especially on the high end and it still sounds lean to me.

57 Chevy Chet Herbert cam
67 Chevelle Crane Cam
(long ago)
 
i had the same problem with my wild thing. i stopped using AV and went to nitro-meth and i haven't had the problem anymore.

seriously......is the chain turning? if not, you might need to increase the idle speed. if it is trying to turn, you might need to richen the L screw.
 
i had the same problem with my wild thing. i stopped using AV and went to nitro-meth and i haven't had the problem anymore.

seriously......is the chain turning? if not, you might need to increase the idle speed. if it is trying to turn, you might need to richen the L screw.

Since you brought this up, I noticed some time ago that model airplane fuel contains nitro methane. I wonder what would happen if you poured some of that in your chainsaw mix!!
 
Since you brought this up, I noticed some time ago that model airplane fuel contains nitro methane. I wonder what would happen if you poured some of that in your chainsaw mix!!

There is a local RC plane club here. They use Nitro methane and Castor oil. Custom tuned pipes. If I remember right, I think one guy said his stunt plane turns 19K and has a better power to weight ratio than any fighter jet. But if you think saws are expensive...man we ain't got nothin on this this hobby!
 
There is a local RC plane club here. They use Nitro methane and Castor oil. Custom tuned pipes. If I remember right, I think one guy said his stunt plane turns 19K and has a better power to weight ratio than any fighter jet. But if you think saws are expensive...man we ain't got nothin on this this hobby!

Yeah, I used to do that several years ago..it took up all my spare money. Then when you crashed your plane, and it happened a lot, your money went up in smoke.
 
Yeah, I used to do that several years ago..it took up all my spare money. Then when you crashed your plane, and it happened a lot, your money went up in smoke.

Seen a guy at a show they were putting on follow the plane with his head as it homed in on the control unit. Almost cut his nose as bad as his wrist. The plane was in better shape than if it had augured into the ground though...
 
power brakes and steering will work better too. In all seriousness though, I agree that the low needs to come out a little.

Nic, doing what I originally posted accomplishes the same thing, lowering the lift restricts the air intake, increases the vacuum and fuel to air mix, shorten duration and the engine will idle more smoothly. Oh yea that is four stroke. For two bangers fatten up the L setting. :cheers:

Pioneerguy600
 
Clutch possibly

If clutch is grabbing from being idled too high, weak springs or bad
drum bearing, noise could come from there and cause rough idle.
A 435 is not a pro saw anyway, if it has been used a lot, it may be getting
used up.
 
i shoulda wrote more. um it still idles ruff and slow even when the idle is set just slightly before the chain starts to turn. so i should fatten up the Low screw then?
 
i shoulda wrote more. um it still idles ruff and slow even when the idle is set just slightly before the chain starts to turn. so i should fatten up the Low screw then?

It depends on what you call rough. There's a lean surge and a rich sluggishness. Try it both ways and somewhere in the middle is where you want. When you pull the trigger and it bogs down you probably have it too lean. The richer the L screw is adjusted the slower the idle. You want to adjust it lean but not so much that it bogs when you pull the trigger.
It's been my experience that if they are too hard to get adjusted there may be another problem, like a speck of dirt somewhere you don't want it or something else. Generally, saws in good condition are easy to adjust and "snap in" pretty quickly.
 
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maybe you can post a short video with decent sound? otherwise consult the madsens clips...my guess is lower idle and richer to get what you want. Its not as risky messing with the low jets as the high jets so dont worry too much.
 
Something else though is that smaller saws tend to have more erratic idle speeds. When I first got my tach i thought something was wrong with it. A saw would jump around from 2500-2900. Lakeside told me not to worry about it, that the big saws didnt hop around as much. he was right.
 
Something else though is that smaller saws tend to have more erratic idle speeds. When I first got my tach i thought something was wrong with it. A saw would jump around from 2500-2900. Lakeside told me not to worry about it, that the big saws didnt hop around as much. he was right.

thanks, that exactly answers my question.
 

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