Need more oil

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brycelunsford

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I'm constantly having oiling issues lately especially in hard woods of coarse mainly whiteoak and hickory. After making probably 10 cut's in the trunk sections the chain starts smoking and getting glazed and then no matter what I do( blow the oiling holes in the bar out, make sure the one in the saw's clear, clean and oil the chain etc.) it seems that the chain is never right again and have to toss it. Maybe it's just some bad luck here lately idk. A tech at my local stihl dealer told me I could try porting out the oiler holes on the bar which I did on a couple and it did seem to help a little, it did'nt hurt anyway. What do you guy's think?! Why is the oil smoking off the chain?
 
Maybe try running a thinner oil. You'd probably get a good bit more 20 weight through the oiler and B&C than you will 30 weight.
 
Couple of suggestions come to mind, which you may have already checked out:
1. Chain cutters sharp & depth gauges set to specs and bar groove cleared of oil/junk.
2. Check oiler operation w/out the b/c installed.
3. Non-Stihl bars may have oil holes misaligned with oil delivery slot on saw. This happened with a used Stihl that I bought and the oil ended up everywhere but on the b/c. New Stihl bar fixed it.
4. Bar/chain are too long for saw's oil delivery rate.
 
Stihl MS 660, 32" stihl rollomatic es bar, and a new stihl full skip chain round profile is the main culprit. Like I said I'll cut several sections and then it start smoking and dulling the chain quickly without hitting any dirt and the woods clean. I realize this sounds like a dull chain incident but I don't see that being the case when I start off with a new chain. Maybe I just need to let it cool down every few minutes my dad say's I'm just getting it hot in big wood and the oil is evaporating as soon as it hits the chain. My MS 362 is bad about it. Have very little problems with my husqvarnas doing this.
 
I don't have any experience cutting those kinds of wood, but I think maybe you're continuing to cut after the chain needs sharpening, THEN it gets hot and self destructs.
 
I don't have any experience cutting those kinds of wood, but I think maybe you're continuing to cut after the chain needs sharpening, THEN it gets hot and self destructs.

Very possible this is my main problem. It just amazes me sometimes how quickly hard wood can dull a chain and the cutter's look sharp to the naked eye but aren't. I guess I just need to break the file out in the field more often. I'm just a little ignorant about some saw issues so thanks guy's for your help with the education.
 
I use a magnifying glass to see the cutters. My old eyes don't work as good nowadays. I got used to the magnify glass when I was grinding valve seats in the machine shop.
Myself, I hate running a file on the job. I'd rather carry extra chains.
 
If the Dealer cannot find any oiler issues, then porting the bar is what I ended up doing.

1st I measured the engine oil port in relation to the bar. Then drilled an indention into the bar from that point to the Bar Oil Well Port. Then took a dremel tool and smoothed out the channel so the oil could easily flow into the Oil Well.
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