Need some help, Norwood log posts

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thechknhwk

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Getting pretty pissed about these things. Directions suck, parts sent to me don't match pics in directions. It says to use a framing square to get the post "square" to the bed when they say square they mean perpendicular. So they show the nice 16" or so square post in the directions, but send me a round one and a little stubby square one. What the hell am I supposed to do with that? Since one is round and one is tube I'm going to have to resquare the post everytime I may want to switch them. I must also mention there are set screws on the other side of that post pocket with a slot head in them for squaring the post. A jamb nut is then placed on the set screw to hold it in position. Hope the bottom set screw don't need to be turned in too far because due to it's location you can't even get a screwdriver on it.

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Once they are square, you will only need to check them once in a while.

Don't know why the sent one of each kind, I use mine more than the orginial ones the mill came with.

Because I can use them on odd shaped logs too. Often I will use a "sacraficial" board or small cant to line up odd logs or taller/narrower cants that the regular posts don't do as well with.

Don't know if that helps much.

Kevin
 
So explain to me in idiot terms how you set them perpendicular to the bed, like where did you put the framing square because clearly the directions give no indication or illustration. I know another piece of paper and another picture would have been very demanding....

My only idea at this point is to span the bunks with a very straight board or a piece of steel then I can slide my framing square anywhere along the plane of the bed to make the post plumb to the bed.

The only other thing I can think of is to shove the square up my ass and waddle away.
 
PM sent, give me a call. Slow answering via phone to post.

Set a triangle/square on the flat of the orange crossbunk, yes you can square the round post.
 
So explain to me in idiot terms how you set them perpendicular to the bed, like where did you put the framing square because clearly the directions give no indication or illustration. I know another piece of paper and another picture would have been very demanding....

My only idea at this point is to span the bunks with a very straight board or a piece of steel then I can slide my framing square anywhere along the plane of the bed to make the post plumb to the bed.

The only other thing I can think of is to shove the square up my ass and waddle away.

I don't recommend placing the framing square anywhere near the "neatheands" rumor has it that it is painful!

After dark tonight, I will post a few picks of mine on photobucket that show what I am suggesting.

Do a manual search in the milling forum for "cants out of square", I have some squaring pics in there.

And fortunantly for fellow AS members none of my astetically challenged mug.
 
I don't recommend placing the framing square anywhere near the "neatheands" rumor has it that it is painful!

After dark tonight, I will post a few picks of mine on photobucket that show what I am suggesting.

Do a manual search in the milling forum for "cants out of square", I have some squaring pics in there.

And fortunantly for fellow AS members none of my astetically challenged mug.

Tried a couple different "advanced" searches and could not come up with it. "Cants out of square" only turns up one result and it's this thread, lol.
 
Getting the posts squared up it actually very easy, just use square off your bunks and line up the posts. With the round post be sure to use the set screws as much as possible to being the post towards the locking screw (failing to do this on my ml26 had me screwed up for awhile).

I would also call Norwood and ask why you got a square mini post and a round post.....
 
I received four square posts with my LL24. The two longer ones (with the beveled tops) are used, by me, for loading larger logs then the two shorter ones when the cant gets down to under 8 or 10 inches.


Getting pretty pissed about these things. Directions suck, parts sent to me don't match pics in directions. It says to use a framing square to get the post "square" to the bed when they say square they mean perpendicular. So they show the nice 16" or so square post in the directions, but send me a round one and a little stubby square one. What the hell am I supposed to do with that? Since one is round and one is tube I'm going to have to resquare the post everytime I may want to switch them. I must also mention there are set screws on the other side of that post pocket with a slot head in them for squaring the post. A jamb nut is then placed on the set screw to hold it in position. Hope the bottom set screw don't need to be turned in too far because due to it's location you can't even get a screwdriver on it.

normal_110711_014.jpg

Just a suggestion here. Turn the post 180 degrees (or 90 degrees as shown in the instruction photo). The way you have it here, if you haven't already found out, will make it almost impossible to get a square cant. From my point of view the little "off set" is intended only to keep the post from sliding down and through the hole. Just my two cents worth.

Milled some 4x6, 6x6 and 6x8 black locust and 5/4x4:red oak and 5/4X12" hickory today. It was a good day!
 
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Norwood had made several kinds of post over the years...

I would call Norwood and ask them to send you another post to match what ever one you like best.

You can lay a flat board across two bunks and use a square off it to set them.

I put up the std. swing post "up" when i start out or when rolling big logs, i let them take the beating. Then i use the opt. post after that, to make sure i get square cants ect...

Rob
 
Norwood had made several kinds of post over the years...

I would call Norwood and ask them to send you another post to match what ever one you like best.

You can lay a flat board across two bunks and use a square off it to set them.

I put up the std. swing post "up" when i start out or when rolling big logs, i let them take the beating. Then i use the opt. post after that, to make sure i get square cants ect...

Rob

After venting to deeker and complaining to my co-worker today I figured I will clamp my 4' level across the horizontal bunks then use my 1' tri-square to true them up. The directions are sorry. Just take the framing square and apply it to thin air that will true them right up.:angry2:
 
I received four square posts with my LL24. The two longer ones (with the beveled tops) are used, by me, for loading larger logs then the two shorter ones when the cant gets down to under 8 or 10 inches.




Just a suggestion here. Turn the post 180 degrees (or 90 degrees as shown in the instruction photo). The way you have it here, if you haven't already found out, will make it almost impossible to get a square cant. From my point of view the little "off set" is intended only to keep the post from sliding down and through the hole. Just my two cents worth.

Milled some 4x6, 6x6 and 6x8 black locust and 5/4x4:red oak and 5/4X12" hickory today. It was a good day!

I know the small post is in there incorrectly. I just dropped it in there willy-nilly to illustrate the posts they sent me are completely different.
 
After venting to deeker and complaining to my co-worker today I figured I will clamp my 4' level across the horizontal bunks then use my 1' tri-square to true them up. The directions are sorry. Just take the framing square and apply it to thin air that will true them right up.:angry2:

I have used a frameing suare off the bunk to square them up, so it does work... BUT, i normally use a 6' level that i have, i just didn't think you had one of those, so i suggested useing a flat board that will also work.

Those manuals are written for the average person, not a guy like you or me, that has a shop full of tools...

Rob
 
Talked to norwood about the posts. They don't even have long square posts. He also told me the pic in the directions shows the bracket mounted backwards which is why when I cut about 1000 bf on tuesday I had to use a spacer board to stop the exit side band wheel guide from hitting the logs... We'll get 'er figured out though! Gotta bring the mill in the garage this weekend and get it switched around.
 
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