New Dolmar 5100 dies at idle

[Esteban]

I have to start my new 5100 so many times an hour that I'm really starting to resent it. It runs well, but let it idle and it will either stop by itself, or tease you and wait for you to try to rev it a bit before konking out.

Thing is I can't turn the idle screw. What kind of screwdriver is the right fit for that thing? You can't see if it's engaged properly or not with the narrow hole through the housing, and everything I've tried has been unable to turn it. I don't think it's stripped, but it will be soon enough unless I try something different. How much pressure should it take? How do you know if the screwdriver is engaged or not?

I've adjusted the L screw out (counterclockwise) to the limit, but whatever the setting, I've found no improvement for the stalling.

:help: please.

 

[Festus Haggen]

Mine came with the carb screwdriver, works perfect. I had to adjust the idle on mine as well. Works great now. If you're not sure, take it to the dealer and get it tuned.

 

[blsnelling]

The L screw is for idle mixture. The LA is for idle speed.

 

[cuttinscott]

The idle screw is very easy to adjust If you have a hard time finding it unsnap the top hood and lift it off, there is a rubber guide that aligns the passage to the adjustment screws you should be able to see it better then you can pull the guide out if need be but be sure to reinstall it. Also sounds like the low speed might be a tad rich as well turn it in just a touch and see if that helps.

Scott

 

[Esteban]

Thanks, will try it without the guide.

I've tried that same screwdriver that came with mine. Works great for the H and L, but not for the S (idle). I guess that's idle speed. It's not labeled LA. I try to turn it 1/8 so I can see that I've moved it. But the slot is always straight up and down.

Will mess with it some more this afternoon.

 

[Edge & Engine]

S = Speed (engine).

 

[Esteban]

Va Rooommmm ...

The idle screw is very easy to adjust If you have a hard time finding it unsnap the top hood and lift it off, there is a rubber guide that aligns the passage to the adjustment screws you should be able to see it better then you can pull the guide out if need be but be sure to reinstall it. Also sounds like the low speed might be a tad rich as well turn it in just a touch and see if that helps.

Scott

It's running great now! Pulling out the rubber guide made it easy to see what I was doing. (I'd already been removing the cover.) So maybe I was turning the idle S screw before, but I couldn't tell and therefore couldn't calibrate how much. The slots in the guide make the screw slot look like it's always at 12:00 or 3:00. About a quarter of a turn in and the idle is steady now.

You were right about the L adjustment as well. Also about a quarter turn in (leaner), and acceleration from idle is much better. The manual said to make the L richer if acceleration was sputtery (not the exact wording ) and this was the opposite of what mine needed. But hey, I'm at 5500 ft elevation, so it's not surprising that it would be too rich. (less oxygen here)

May tweak the L some more, or not. Need more running time to tell.

... then you can pull the guide out if need be but be sure to reinstall it. ...
Scott

Do I have to reinstall it? It's so easy to adjust without the guide complicating life.

 

[cuttinscott]

Do I have to reinstall it? It's so easy to adjust without the guide complicating life.

Im glad you got it adjusted and running better. Yes I would reinstall the adjustment guide block



Scott

 

[blsnelling]

Treat that saw with care. You're like not to be able to get parts for it. :greenchainsaw:

 

[Zodiac45]

Well done Esteban Glad it worked out. As long as the saw starts easy and revs smoothly, I wouldn't mess with the L (much) and just run the saw for while and break it in.

 

[HUSKYMAN]

Treat that saw with care. You're like not to be able to get parts for it. :greenchainsaw:

Thats only in North Carolina. The rest of the planet uses magic to get them

 

[Esteban]

Well done Esteban Glad it worked out. As long as the saw starts easy and revs smoothly, I wouldn't mess with the L (much) and just run the saw for while and break it in.

I ran it for about 45 minutes yesterday. I can't imagine that it could run any better! I know there's supposed to be a bump in performance after break in. Hard to believe it could get even better. What's the usual time? I've run through about 3-4 tank fulls, well less than a gallon of fuel so far.

I guess I'll reinstall the guide adjustment block. It's steady now.

 

[Zodiac45]

I ran it for about 45 minutes yesterday. I can't imagine that it could run any better! I know there's supposed to be a bump in performance after break in. Hard to believe it could get even better. What's the usual time? I've run through about 3-4 tank fulls, well less than a gallon of fuel so far.

I guess I'll reinstall the guide adjustment block. It's steady now.

Yep keep the guide on. As far as break in period, I'd say your maybe 1/2 way there. Probably 10 full tanks of good work and she's broke in. Not that anything really changes per se. (because unlike a car or bike you don't take it easy for X amount of miles) You might notice it's a little stronger though as it runs in.

 

[SawTroll]

Treat that saw with care. You're like not to be able to get parts for it. :greenchainsaw:

I believe that is old news, shouldn't be a problem at all.....:welcome:

 

[SawTroll]

Yep keep the guide on. As far as break in period, I'd say your maybe 1/2 way there. Probably 10 full tanks of good work and she's broke in. Not that anything really changes per se. (because unlike a car or bike you don't take it easy for X amount of miles) You might notice it's a little stronger though as it runs in.

I believe more in 20 tanks........

...lots of opinions here, and no real proof.....