madman39
ArboristSite Operative
Does anybody with experience with these grinders have advise for a newbe!:bang: Rep, will be a coming!!!!!!11
new oregan chain sharpener!
- Thread starter madman39
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smokinj
Addicted to ArboristSite
Looks like a 511a nice grinder what you want to know? been using one for a couple years now.
I've been using one for years. Whatcha need to know?
madman39
ArboristSite Operative
Just some do's and donts I guess! Do you feel each tooth to see if its sharp? I got a price I couldnt refuss on it! I like it so far!
smokinj
Addicted to ArboristSite
Good Lighting is the key.....and most chains are cut at 60 degree tilt and 30 degree angle...The 511a is imho an awesome grinder and you should be able to master it very quickly do real do's and donts just a very nice grinder.
http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=46440&catID=9805 I really like this stuff seems to hold down the dust and grinds coolier.
http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=46440&catID=9805 I really like this stuff seems to hold down the dust and grinds coolier.
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madman39
ArboristSite Operative
Thanks for the info, I'm going to go sharpen 24" loop!
smokinj
Addicted to ArboristSite
I have a sharpeng bussness so I could justify one of these for the full comp and the smaller chains I use the stones.
http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=AB6+18&catID=
http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=AB6+18&catID=
Grind all teeth the same length. The degrees above are what I use as well. That will be 60° on the guage on the back of the grinder, and 30° on the part that holds the chain. Just to keep it simple, I'd leave the chain holder flat, not tilted 10°, at least for now.
madman39
ArboristSite Operative
I didnt know u could change the holder angel. I think its flat.
smokinj
Addicted to ArboristSite
I like to hand file the rakers instead of grinding them holds a better shape and makes a faster chain imho......
Buzsaw
ArboristSite Member
I use the 511 for 11H, 18H, and .404. If you do alot of grinding, .get a diamond grinding stone lasts along time (I flip every 12th chain). The "pink" stones throw alot of dust, needs shaping, readjusting, and if your chain isn't clean will load up. Wear eye protection and a dust mask. I don't tilt. The grinder should come with a chain guide or just down load from Oregon. I bought a 511AX, but the chain guide to me was flimsy and was hard to use and was hard to use on 11H so I bought a new 511. When you switch to grind the other side of the chain...you do need to readjust to get even teeth grind. I have used the 511 series grinders for years. They last a long time easy to maintain. The only mod I have done is to put a sheet metal plate behind the stone so the dust particles done build up on the machine which builds up into a solid mass requiring one to chip it off.
webie
ArboristSite Operative
Hi I have a Maxx grinder , Its a bit different but nearly the same . try sharpening some really old garbage chains first before you take on some good ones . I like the kiss method I just like too kiss the teeth on the chain rather than grind too the worse one and grind the rest of the teeth off .
Everything mentioned above is exactly what I do. Once you do a couple chains its a walk in the park. The only tip I have is when you back the cutter against the stopper, lightly push the cutter down flat against the vise, then tighten the vise. I have seen guys just slide the chain against the stop and tighten the vise. If you do that the front of the cutter can ride up off the vise a bit. Just a basic tip that I'm sure most people already do.
jramstead
ArboristSite Lurker
Just got my 511ax today for fathers day and both of the small grinding
wheels were broken. Par for the course. Are the oregon wheels that come
with them pretty cheap? I'm sure they will replace them..
wheels were broken. Par for the course. Are the oregon wheels that come
with them pretty cheap? I'm sure they will replace them..
Gypo Logger
Timber Baron
1: dress the wheel flat on the bottom and round on the side that does the grinding.
2: lower wheel to bottom of cutter and edge of tooth before turning it on.
3: Use slight sideways pressure into the tooth.
4: don't try to move too much metal in one pass.
5: Use only a high grade carborundum stone for wheel dressing.
Gypo
2: lower wheel to bottom of cutter and edge of tooth before turning it on.
3: Use slight sideways pressure into the tooth.
4: don't try to move too much metal in one pass.
5: Use only a high grade carborundum stone for wheel dressing.
Gypo
TRI955
I'm the man in the box
:agree2: I also don't have to change my settings or the wheel either.
call oregon and they will replace them if you havent already called. They are super nice in resolving any problems ou might have.
nmurph
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pretty much what has mentioned above. i will add that i bought a cheap
($10) set of calipers to help with getting the cutters the same length. the first time you are grinding a chain that has been hand sharpened you may need to measure the cutters to find the shortest one. after the first grinding i usually just measure 5-6 to get an idea of what i need to do. when you find the shortest one, place the wheel against the face of the cutter and gradually grind until the face is shiney on all surfaces. then take you time and grind the rest to that length. when you sharpen use the tap, tap, tap method to avoid bluing a cutter. if you are careful with you measurements and easy on the grinding you can make a chain last. if not, you can eat through a chain in a few sharpenings with a grinder.
($10) set of calipers to help with getting the cutters the same length. the first time you are grinding a chain that has been hand sharpened you may need to measure the cutters to find the shortest one. after the first grinding i usually just measure 5-6 to get an idea of what i need to do. when you find the shortest one, place the wheel against the face of the cutter and gradually grind until the face is shiney on all surfaces. then take you time and grind the rest to that length. when you sharpen use the tap, tap, tap method to avoid bluing a cutter. if you are careful with you measurements and easy on the grinding you can make a chain last. if not, you can eat through a chain in a few sharpenings with a grinder.
abikerboy
ArboristSite Operative
I have one of the Northern Tool made in China grinders. First thing I did was to order Oregon wheels, and I ordered the arbor that holds the wheels from Oregon. The oregon arbor and the oregon wheels run so true that they're 99.9% perfect. I couldnt get anything to run true on the arbor that came with the machine. I did get the grinder cheap enough that even with replacement wheels and arbor, I'm still well under what Northern sells the new grinder for.
A friend of mine brought me a 26RMC374 chain off of a stihl farm boss.Can anyone give me some info on sharpening this with a oregon 511ax. Which grinding wheel do you use, and what angles do you use?
Thanks:
Thanks:
