New top handle

[NCPT]

Got this new MS193T today, never cranked. Fuel and oil and it fired right up. Warmed it up for a bit and checked for throttle response, seemed really sluggish. Searching around shows these saws respond well to a muffler mod and adjusting the carb. I have no problem opening the muffler but not sure on adjusting the carb.

I got the saw cheap and I really want to learn to tune a saw. Seems the limiter tabs are in my way. I need to cut the limiter tabs off to get full adjustability so I'll get into that tomorrow.....any advice appreciated on easy removal of them. Which way do I turn the carb screws to richen? Seems like turning them counter clockwise will back the screws out, allowing more fuel?

Thanks

 

[NCPT]

Also a bar and chain recommendation would be helpful. I really want to open up the muffler and adjust the carb then add a 12" b & c but I'm not sure what setup should work best.....Just gonna to limb a few yard oaks and trail clearing but I like a snappy powerful saw too. Thanks

 

[s sidewall]

Might want to find someone to adjust the carb so you don't lean it out or over richen. Have them teach you, once you learn you can easily do it yourself.

Steve

 

[s sidewall]

You may find a willing member near you.

Steve

 

[NCPT]

Might want to find someone to adjust the carb so you don't lean it out or over richen. Have them teach you, once you learn you can easily do it yourself.

Steve

That would be ideal. I'm kinda gun shy on tuning the carb myself....Just paid for a rebuild on my ms440 which had a scored piston from screaming too lean.

 

[s sidewall]

You won't them 4 stroking some and clear up in the cut with good power. Screaming not good.

Steve

 

[Mustang71]

Why did u buy a top handle? Sort of off topic but I can tune a saw. I have looked at the 193t many times but don't know what I would do with one since I don't climb. Looks like a real nice saw.

 

[Wood Doctor]

NCPT said, "Seems like turning them counter clockwise will back the screws out, allowing more fuel?"

That's correct. The limit screws sometimes block the ideal carb setting. You have a very good looking saw there. I imagine all here will be jealous at what you paid for it. A new one is about $350 plus sales tax.

 

[TheTone]

Not clear if this is a new saw from an individual or dealer. If it's from a dealer, anything you do to modify it will void the warranty. Might want to keep it stock for a while.

 

[Wood Doctor]

Not clear if this is a new saw from an individual or dealer. If it's from a dealer, anything you do to modify it will void the warranty. Might want to keep it stock for a while.

Good point. If it's just out of the box, the dealer should tune it. Leave the plastic limiters in place, much as I hate the dang things.

 

[NCPT]

Well I got the saw from a friend who bought it to do the same thing I want it for, light pruning and trail clearing. I got the saw as part of a deal for an old jeep I sold him....i wasn't going to mess with the jeep and he wasn't using the saw so good deal for both of us.
Thanks for the help so far.

 

[Brian72]

You're correct. Out to richen, in to lean it. The L pretty much controls throttle response and the H is wide open. Too rich will be sluggish and too lean will scream. You want the sweet spot in between. Just make very small adjustments. It doesn't take much. Just keep in mind, after any mods, you'll need to re-tune.

Sent from my Moto E (4) using Tapatalk

 

[CR888]

I am all for removing limiters for more adjustment with carbs. Although in this instance where the OP ain't sure which way to turn them to tune, my advice would be leave them there to protect the saw. There is normaly enough adjustment to get proper tune, everyone presume they need 'more' fuel to improve throttle response when often they need less. I'd leave the limiters in place until you improve your tuning skills.

 

[NCPT]

I am all for removing limiters for more adjustment with carbs. Although in this instance where the OP ain't sure which way to turn them to tune, my advice would be leave them there to protect the saw. There is normaly enough adjustment to get proper tune, everyone presume they need 'more' fuel to improve throttle response when often they need less. I'd leave the limiters in place until you improve your tuning skills.

The reason I asked about the direction of the screws for adjustment is because I recently asked a dealer (not going to name what brand) and he said turning the screws to the left/ccw will allow more air in....that didn't seem right to me.

I'm confident I can do the muffler mod and there's only one way to learn to tune the carb lol. Pics and more questions to follow and thanks again.

 

[Conquistador3]

I am asking you a question as a fellow MS193T owner: why do you want to mess with a saw you've just bought?
Have you run the saw and you aren't happy about its performances? Do you need more power on the cheap for the jobs you want to do? Or are you just falling for the "tuning" myth?

That saw will start being run-in after 4-5 tanks of fuel and fully run-in after 10-12 (the fuel tank is really really small). If you run the saw "as is" you'll notice its performances will slowly but surely improve over the run-in period. It will also become somewhat easier to start when cold, albeit the MS193T cannot be considered an easy cold starter in any way, shape or form.
I would suggest at very least running the saw in before considering putting your hands to it, unless of course you have already signed up for a hotsaw competition.

 

[NCPT]

I am asking you a question as a fellow MS193T owner: why do you want to mess with a saw you've just bought?
Have you run the saw and you aren't happy about its performances? Do you need more power on the cheap for the jobs you want to do? Or are you just falling for the "tuning" myth?

That saw will start being run-in after 4-5 tanks of fuel and fully run-in after 10-12 (the fuel tank is really really small). If you run the saw "as is" you'll notice its performances will slowly but surely improve over the run-in period. It will also become somewhat easier to start when cold, albeit the MS193T cannot be considered an easy cold starter in any way, shape or form.
I would suggest at very least running the saw in before considering putting your hands to it, unless of course you have already signed up for a hotsaw competition.

You are right and I'll take the advice and see how the saw does after running it a bit, thanks.

How about my B & C setup? I thought about going to a 12" bar.

 

[Mustang71]

I have a non modified saw that I bought new about 5 years ago and I've never touched the carb. Piston still looks good and it runs good.

 

[Giles]

Be happy to explain some things that might help.
Shoot me a PM.

 

[Conquistador3]

You are right and I'll take the advice and see how the saw does after running it a bit, thanks.

How about my B & C setup? I thought about going to a 12" bar.

I have a 12" Rollomatic Light bar with a 3/8"LP chain on mine, as it came from the dealer.
I think it's the smallest 3/8"LP bar Stihl has and I am happy with it. No need to go with a longer bar on that saw.

 

[Icedogs28]

My 193 was sluggish when I first fired it up too. Didn't want to do the muffler mod or cut off carb limiters until my warranty is up.. one thing I did was bump up the idle a little. Really improved throttle response. Much snappier now. Looking forward to the MM once the warranty is out . On my 5th tank of fuel now and the saw keeps getting better!