Newbie question: Dolmar 420 or 5500 in place of Stihl 026?

[DeepCut]

I need something lighter than a 026, preferably adjustable 3 screw carb/(pro?) that has less vibration yet won't stick in Oak.

Long winded background:
I got my first saw (90s Stihl 026 with 16" solid bar) last June and managed to cut over 12 cord of Maple, Oak, and Ash last year. This year in Jan with temperatures around -10C I was able to cut some maple before the saw started slowing down in wood.
I was using 89 grade gas, with 50:1 oil and 50:1 seafoam.

I put in a newly sharpened chain (professionally done, I sharpen with file after every day's work a few times before having a professional set the rakers right) it was still getting stuck.

I tried to figure out the issue and realized the small hose from carb to crank was leaky and was flooding/running too rich.
I replaced the small hose, re-set the coil, cleaned plug/carb diaphragm.

This time I put in 91 octane gas with 50:1 oil and no seafoam. I am having a hard time tuning it now and it gets stuck even in a long dead hemlock log with temperature around +15C

The saw originally had a flocked filter, that I replaced with wire-mesh and presently use a combo with wire-mesh outside and flocked saw-side, this has worked great with the muffler mod I did (Its loud, but it cuts better)


Here are my questions regarding this saw:
- Do saws start losing power after a while?

- I have used seafoam on my cars/mower/tractor with good results, the chainsaw was a massive improvement initially, no idea as to why it is losing power now?

- I tried my neighbor's professionally tuned unmodded 440 and it literally stopped in 14" of red oak (he is a woodsman and is proud of his saw) Can you push a saw too hard into wood that it stalls, I never experienced that before even in 24" Ash, am I doing something wrong?

- I had a hard time getting the hose even after having the IPL beforehand the Walbro carb says 037 and the dealers could not find the part in their system. If I cant get the right parts for it on time, I am leery of using it as my primary saw, maybe its done its time?

- The dealer was trying to sell the 211 Duro as a much improved saw that had no problems of the recent models, made me wonder if Stihl was a has-been?

I plan to use the saw to cut downed/dead trees for firewood for my home, I want the saw to run for the few hours when I use it on a weekend without elaborate start cycles, the 026 requires 5 pulls on choke and starts on sixth, repeat again to actually work. Is that normal Stihl 026 operation?

I saw some videos of Dolmar PS 420 and it looks impressive, the specs with steel springs and magnesium case sound promising as compared to the Stihl plastic, will a 420 be able to handle 24" plus trees with a 16" bar, or do I look at a 5500?

I wasn't able to figure out a comparable Husqvarna, maybe 357?

In conclusion, I need to know:
- Does it make sense to maintain the 026 with its eccentricities?
- Is Dolmar PS 420 a less expensive but reliable alternative?
- Should I be looking at something else?

Thanks again for your time and patience reading this

 

[Warroad50]

Sounds like your 026 is also getting low on compresion time for new ring. I would fix up the 026 and look for a bigger saw like 60cc plus for those bigger trees. Look at the Dolmar 6400 it can be up graded to a 7900.

 

[Termite]

I had a Dolmar420. It is a nice saw but no way would I use it to cut 24"ash.
24"ash, I would use something like a Dolmar7900.

 

[GPETER]

I tried my neighbor's professionally tuned unmodded 440 and it literally stopped in 14" of red oak (he is a woodsman and is proud of his saw) Can you push a saw too hard into wood that it stalls, I never experienced that before even in 24" Ash, am I doing something wrong?

Yes chainsaw chains stall in the cut all the time if you are not sawing properly. Sharpen the chain so that it self feeds into the cut and then you will not have to push.

I put in a newly sharpened chain (professionally done, I sharpen with file after every day's work a few times before having a professional set the rakers right) it was still getting stuck.

Do you mean the bar was getting pinched?

File the chain when the saw is not performing well, not at regular intervals. If you hit something hard with the chain then sharpen it right away. You should see large chips flying out of the clutch cover and again the saw should be self feeding into the cut. If not sharpen.

If you still have problems with poor performance dont question the saw brand... 026's are good saws everyone here will agree. Take off the muffler or pull the jug and look at the piston; is it scored? What is the compression? Have you tuned the carburetor properly?

Search these forums and check out this page for diagnostic help: http://www.madsens1.com/MNUsawmaint.htm

If you are still having problems then we can help out but please do some investigation first.

Look into fixing the saw first then if you get in over your head or feel that too much is required to resurrect this saw then look for a new or used one. If the 026 is a good size saw for your purpose then another used 026 would be perfect as you would already have a parts saw.

 

[2000ssm6]

A 420 won't replace a 026. A 5100 could. If a 440 stalled in 14" Oak, it needs some major help. I'd say go to another dealer and have him fix and tune your 026. The flocked air filter is the best one to use.

 

[zzr7ky]

Hi -

I have been cutting a lot of Ash lately. The Dolmar 6400 is my !st choice on big Ash. The 5100 is also very satisfactory, especially if you are weight sensitive.

I've been using Dolmars since Reagan's 1st term.

All the best,
Mike