Newbie question regarding ascending tall conifers

[Mtnman51]

Hi:

I have 5 acres of 2nd growth fir and pine in North Central Washington and have removed 196 trees to thin it out. Remaining trees have a lot of dead limbs I'd like to remove for aesthetic purposes. I've done what I can with a pole saw but have 30ish trees I need to climb and limb up to 50'. I have a background in rock climbing (20 years) and SAR rope rescue rigging (5 years). Also a fair bit of construction rigging for log home and steel work. Totally new to roped ascending of trees but tried it over the weekend trying to utilize gear I already own.

I was able to set a MRS system on a false crotch (pulley) and ascend a retired 11mm rescue rope with an 8mm VT hitch with a fussy self tending pulley. It was pretty challenging physically and I was pretty gassed out after 35' and my VT started jamming up on me. I suspect this had to do with getting tired and inexperience/sloppy technique. I cleaned up the one tree and called it a day. I am 51, short and stocky if that matters. I did order the Climber's Companion book. I'm not sure if I just need more experience but it seems like there must be a better way to get my big butt up in the trees to do the work I want to do.

I'm seeing a rope wrench and better looking pulley being used in some cases. Would this make a big difference with this system?
View attachment IMG_7161.mov

Is this the preferred method of ascending for this kind of work or should I be trying a SRS system? Something like this: https://www.bartlettman.com/product...43028&pr_ref_pid=4437810774100&pr_seq=uniform

I can afford to purchase additional gear but would prefer not to spend a bunch of $ if I don't need to. Considering I have a bunch more trees to limb up, I just want to be efficient and safe.

 

[Lightning Performance]

Mark Chisholm has very good videos on accending a rope right quick. If you have the gear setup well up you go with little effort. I learned it in one weekend. Retiring climber for several reasons mostly physical and endurance related. This will not tire you out. If it does buy a power accender gas job.

 

[chainbrake]

spurs.

 

[TheJollyLogger]

Definitely switch to srs. My favorite as far as energy conservation has always been the petzl R.A.D.S. system.

 

[telecasterfool]

For what you're doing, if you do not want to spur the trees, I would look up a RADS system with any auto locking descender designed for rope access work. The easiest setup uses a CT quickroll hand ascender with a footstrap. Learn to set a rope as a base anchor. It's the fastest. You can advance the base anchor with a loop runner and a carabiner around the tree. Always be tied in twice while cutting. The Camp Druid Descender is an inexpensive option. Good luck

 

[chipper1]

SRT up off a basal tie setup (as @telecasterfool suggested) using ascenders, then ddrt down if you don't want to buy a mechanical SRT setup for descent.

 

[chipper1]

spurs.

Most guys won't use spikes when pruning, only for removals.

 

[chainbrake]

Most guys won't use spikes when pruning, only for removals.

The bark on the West Coast Doug firs and hemlocks runs deep on tall trees. I was the ground guy for an arborist/danger faller (close to 40 years ago now), and he would spur conifers without making a mess of them. I would think a climber could spike up the side that isn't part of the view. If the spurs will harm the tree, then forget I said anything.

 

[TheJollyLogger]

The bark on the West Coast Doug firs and hemlocks runs deep on tall trees. I was the ground guy for an arborist/danger faller (close to 40 years ago now), and he would spur conifers without making a mess of them. I would think a climber could spike up the side that isn't part of the view. If the spurs will harm the tree, then forget I said anything.

Yeah, a lot of techniques and accepted standard practices have changed in the last 40 years...

 

[ZinTrees]

Yeah, a lot of techniques and accepted standard practices have changed in the last 40 years...

spiking a fir has always been somewhat acceptable, even for prunes as far as im aware, although its usually faster to shoot a line up unless you're taking off all the limbs on the way up in which case spike away because you're killing the tree anyways

 

[TheJollyLogger]

spiking a fir has always been somewhat acceptable, even for prunes as far as im aware, although its usually faster to shoot a line up unless you're taking off all the limbs on the way up in which case spike away because you're killing the tree anyways

I always used pole spurs versus full tree spurs, so on a thick barked tree I was known to cheat a time or two... I hate full spikes, makes me feel like I am standing on the head of 2 pins...

 

[ZinTrees]

I always used pole spurs versus full tree spurs, so on a thick barked tree I was known to cheat a time or two... I hate full spikes, makes me feel like I am standing on the head of 2 pins...

I learned on pole gaffs, then switched to tree gaffs
when you are in a pine or cottonwood with 3 and 4" thick bark ive found tree gaffs are pretty nice, but they suck like no other when you get in a beech where the bark is super tough and thin

 

[TheJollyLogger]

I learned on pole gaffs, then switched to tree gaffs
when you are in a pine or cottonwood with 3 and 4" thick bark ive found tree gaffs are pretty nice, but they suck like no other when you get in a beech where the bark is super tough and thin

"Just keep them ankles out, boy," ... heard that a hundred times when I was learning...

 

[iowa_jim]

I resemble your age, body type as described, and your rope experience. I am a high angle rope rescue instructor, buy my needs have always been top down, so climbing a rope was actually new. I ended up with the RADS approach or variation thereof.

I used a petzl grigri for progress capture, and a pair of jumars. One jumar for the foot loop, and the other to put a handle and safety catch on the slack side. This allows for a relatively easy conversion to descent mode.

 

[pdqdl]

If the desire is to not spend more money while not getting exhausted, you can use your current system.

Consider adding a foot ascender, which will be part of going to SRS anyway. Then, instead of cutting off all the branches as you go up, only cut off the ones that are in your way, or too small to stand on. Use the branches to assist your ascent, just don't forget to keep tending the slack on your main line.

When you get to height, come down easy and slow, finishing the trimming. It's easier to trim at chest height if you leave yourself something to stand on or brace against.