Newbie scores an 026 for $125.00

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9499544

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Howell, Michigan
First let me say that I was always the guy borrowing a chainsaw when the need arose. I now have a wood stove so it was time for my first saw.

I found this on Craigslist for $125.00. It needed some serious cleaning and it desperately needs a new bar and chain, but it seemed like a good deal. It's 19 degrees out it starts on the first or second pull and runs great.
How does this saw compare to the newer MS260? I'd also like some recommendations on which 16" bar and chain to purchase?

This will not be my only saw as I am also looking for the right deal on a used MS361 which will get a 20" bar. (Property clearing exercise come spring)
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Nice work. That saw is very clean and looks unmolested. The bar's nicer than most of mine, unless it's got some chunks out of the rail that I can't spot in the pics. Welcome.
 
I have an 026 that I bought in 1991 and swore it was the only saw I would ever need until I starting looking at this site. I cut just about anything with it. Now the 372 is my go to saw for cutting. Not sure there is much difference in the 260 from what I've seen. CAD!:chainsaw:
 
Good score there. :clap: at prettier than mine.

Rollamatic E 16" bar with yellow RM? chain works great on mine.
 
Fine looking saw. The bar doesn't look that bad, but I can't see it really well. If it's just paint, fugetaboudit... Chain, is it set up with .325 or 3/8? Round here it's .325 but out in Andyville (or Warshington) they send 'em out with 3/8's...

Couldn't agree more with the Rollomatic E bar with Stihl RM on it. Cuts like a champ...

Good luck with your saw, and your new case of CAD.

Jason
 
didn't check the compression with a gauge, but when you pull it, it feels like there is plenty. It revs great and being that it has the dullest chain on the planet it burns though wood great!

MD
 
You did well. I bought a used 026 from a Stihl dealer for $225. It has over 160 psi compression, new carb kit, chain and air filter. Still yours looks better cosmetically. You did great!
 
As far as the bar goes their seems to be more than paint damage. the bar looks either burned up/discolored from no bar oil, or it is hardened around the edges and is supposed to be that way. either way the chain is long gone.

Thanks for all the quick replies.

Mark
 
It is set up with a .325 That is what Stihl recommends, but should I consider going to a 3/8 with that little HP?

Mark
 
It is set up with a .325 That is what Stihl recommends, but should I consider going to a 3/8 with that little HP?

Mark

If you cut ANY hardwood, I recommend .325. I tried 3/8 on mine and it didnt pull as well. It bogged much easier, and both were with new stihl full chisel chain.
 
I got .325" chain on ms290 and 026. I don't see much benefit to switch to 3/8" other than better chain selection on 3/8". Keep the chain sharp and rakers in check. I got mine at .030" which might be too much for some but works for me. I don't like to have to push and pull the saw when I'm cutting.
 
got an oldie 026 with mild muf mod. runs 3/8. no probs cutting some 'green' red oak and a dead white oak this weekend. ate the 16 bar on both trees on some cuts. you can bog it but it seems to work fine. i imagine in softwood it would be fantastic.

i like big chips.
 
How does this saw compare to the newer MS260?

The 026 is basically a 260. Stihl flipped the numbers around on all their saws, and the main difference is that they use the newer flip and twist oil and gas caps instead of the screw in caps. The older 026 also has a slightly different piston size too if I recall right. There are several types of 026s, pro and non-pro, and some different models have different types of carbs (some have the H set screw, and sone have the H preset). The main difference between the pro and non-pro models of the 026/260 is that the pro has the adjustible oiler and decomp starting button and the non-pro does not.
 
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The 026 is basically a 260. Stihl flipped the numbers around on all their saws, and the main difference is that they use the newer flip and twist oil and gas caps instead of the screw in caps. The older 026 also has a slightly different piston size too if I recall right. There are several types of 026s, pro and non-pro, and some different models have different types of carbs (some have the H set screw, and sone have the H preset). The main difference between the pro and non-pro models of the 026/260 is that the pro has the adjustible oiler and decomp starting button and the non-pro does not.

Good post! Sums it up nicely. I'm guessing that the mufflers on the 026 are less restrictive than the 260?
 
How does this saw compare to the newer MS260? I'd also like some recommendations on which 16" bar and chain to purchase?

As already stated-

#1 you did real good, that saw looks great

#2 your bar looks fine, paint it if you are worried about looks.

#3 The 026 has a slightly smaller engine than the 260, but it has a better flowing muffler so I think power is actually a fraction better on an 026. The flip caps are one more diff but I don't think you are missing much there, I prefer the screw type. The 260 does have a better air filter, you will probably find the 026 to clog quickly. I take an unused 1" paint brush in my saw kit and brush the filter off at each fuel up, so not a big deal. The 026 does not have an adjustable oiler but my 026 oils perfectly with the 17" bar I'm using so you should be fine there. The 026 does not have decomp, but you don't need it so one less thing to go wrong.

#4 I like Bailey's Woodsman pro 2XRC chain, it is .325 chisel chain. It is cheap and durable. I think the 026 is best suited to .325 in hardwood and .325 cuts with less vibes than .375, since the 026 does not have the best anti-vibe this helps a bit. http://www.baileysonline.com/category.asp?catID=80

You did great, I love my 026 for everything up to large quantities of 16" and up wood. For felling and processing firewood on trees smaller than 16" it is the GO TO saw. Don't get me wrong it will handle 16" trees fine but you will probably want something faster when bucking up a bunch at once.

If I could suggest a couple of helpful things they would be these-

Obtain a couple of spare e-clips for the clutch as these like to fly off into the woods. If you don't already have it get a rim drive sprocket and a spare rim for the clutch, makes it easier and cheaper in the long run if you are going to use the saw much. Get a spare air filter and keep it handy, these really can clog quickly on this saw. I need to live by that piece of advice but I haven't gotten one yet! Lastly, get this http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=17270&catID=
It keeps your screench handy so you don't have to keep going back to the truck or risk it falling out of your pocket. I thought this was cheesy at first but now all my firewood saws have one. Great addition and I never feel like it is in the way.
 

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