rallen
ArboristSite Operative
Now that I have the 026 up and running, decided to move on to my next project: restoring a Husqvarna 335xpt. I had posted earlier that I acquired for not very much a 335xpt with a bad piston and missing a few miscellaneous parts. One of the members here was kind enough to volunteer to send me another parts saw to help me get one back in the tree. This is what I know so far:
1. COMPRESSION. The one that was sent to me, to my surprise, had 120 lbs of compression, and between it and the parts saw I had, I now have a complete saw. I broke down the other one and even cleaned up the cylinder, and I may still fix that one as well, but for now, I am going to start with this one. I would think with 120 lbs it should at least start.
2. STARTER. When it arrived, besides the dirt, one of the screws on the back mount was missing so it was hard to even pull the cord. After replacing it, I now in theory could get a full pull, but the recoil appears to periodically skip over the pawls, meaning sometimes I do, sometimes I don't. I put on the starter assembly from my other saw, and it pretty much does the same thing. The pawls are steel, and the recoil cam is nylon. They look decent, but perhaps both are worn and I just don't realize it? Any one run into this problem on a Husky and have suggestions as to how to fix it?
3. SPARK. The plug looked pretty good, and I put on an inexpensive spark test light and the coil appears to be functioning properly. On the other one, the coil had a chafed ignition wire and was missing a plug; replaced it before I knew this one was coming and now will have a spare.
4. FUEL. There doesn't appear to be any gas getting to the plug. I did not put a new fuel filter on yet, but I did clean it with carb cleaner, and I can pull fuel up very easily with my vac tester. I dissassembled the carb and the diagphragms look OK, though I will order a carb kit. To see what was going on, I swapped the carb from the other saw in which I already put a carb kit in it, to see if it was a carb problem. Still nothing. Since the carb pump diaphragm is new, and I can pull fuel up the filter with my vac tester, I must have a problem with the impulse line not delivering impulses. There must be an air leak, and I would be willing to bet it is in the impulse line, since my understanding is the oil seals on these saws don't go bad very often. Still, a vac test would tell me, EXCEPT........
To test the vacuum with my home made vac tester, I have to plug up the carb and exhaust ports. Surprisingly enough (at least to me), the gaskets I fabricated for this purpose for the Stihl 026 appear to be the same size on the Husky. But to put them on, I have to remove the muffler, and I CANNOT get one bolt off on the muffler. Not sure how to even get heat into it, and I don't have a 4mm driver bit that reaches (yet). I suspect the answer is that I am going to have to see if the cheap air rachet I have from a kit from Harbor Freight gives enough "tapping" to loosen it, after I cut off the end of an allen wrench to make a 4mm driver for my 4mm socket. I can put alot of torque on it by hand, but I feel like I am going to break the allen wrench or strip the bolt or cut my hand when either happens so I want not to be stupid. Those muffler bolts are really tough to break free on those saws. ANYONE HAVE SOME SUGGESTIONS? I really want to get that muffler off.
I also read that it is worth switching to the newer style air filter instead of the foam one that is on the older parts saw. I have the frame for this pleated nylon filter and will need to buy the element. Another member posted that there can be a problem with the fuel tank breather, and that some have drilled out the oil cap and installed a tank breather from a Stihl 020t to solve the problem of the tuning changing as the gas tank level goes down.
One other question: the workshop manual says the basic setting for the H screw is 3-1/2 turns, and the L screw 1-3/4 turns. That is ALOT different than my Stihls. Are those settings really correct? I have never owned a Husky and have no idea exactly how to start it other than what is written in the manual.
5. BAR and CHAIN. The bar that came with the most recent saw is a Husky bar, but it has a bend in it on one side where it probably fell. It is mild but noticeable. Is it feasible to clamp it between a couple of blocks of hardwood or particle board to straighten it? Or should I just plan on buying a new 12" bar? Don't think it is worth paying someone to straighten it on a little bar like that. Chain looks almost brand new.
The other saw had an Oregon bar in good shape, but with a very worn chain. Curiously, the Oregon bar does not have a separate small bar oil hole? It looks like it might still get oil from the two big holes that are used for tensioning, but even those don't seem to line up quite right with the tensioner. I am a little suspicious that this bar may not really be made for this saw, but I have never had an Oregon bar and perhaps that is how they are made to fit multiple saws?
6. CHAIN BRAKE. The chain brake band on one parts saw is broken, and on the other, the grey activation handle has a crack at its pivot. I should be able to get one complete assembly between the two of them.
7. PLASTIC. The only plastic I am still missing to make one complete saw is the spark cover, which I don't really need to operate it. The one case has some cracks on one side, and with regard to the muffler cover, the plastic pillar broke off at the top where the screw attaches. On that case, I am going to cut a slab of corian off and glue and screw it to the edge as reinforcing, then drill it out for the screw. I think it is salvageable and worth the effort. On the other one, the one that is in place, the only defect I see so far is the oil cap has a tendency to want to slip as it is tightened all the way down. I also noticed that the o-rings on both caps are pretty hard, so I may end up replacing them at some point.
Next step: find that air leak, which means test the crankcase vacuum, which means GET THAT MUFFLER OFF! I have pics of the first parts saw on my previous post about "What was I thinking" at this link:
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/191051-2.htm
I will post new pics as i move forward.
Robert
1. COMPRESSION. The one that was sent to me, to my surprise, had 120 lbs of compression, and between it and the parts saw I had, I now have a complete saw. I broke down the other one and even cleaned up the cylinder, and I may still fix that one as well, but for now, I am going to start with this one. I would think with 120 lbs it should at least start.
2. STARTER. When it arrived, besides the dirt, one of the screws on the back mount was missing so it was hard to even pull the cord. After replacing it, I now in theory could get a full pull, but the recoil appears to periodically skip over the pawls, meaning sometimes I do, sometimes I don't. I put on the starter assembly from my other saw, and it pretty much does the same thing. The pawls are steel, and the recoil cam is nylon. They look decent, but perhaps both are worn and I just don't realize it? Any one run into this problem on a Husky and have suggestions as to how to fix it?
3. SPARK. The plug looked pretty good, and I put on an inexpensive spark test light and the coil appears to be functioning properly. On the other one, the coil had a chafed ignition wire and was missing a plug; replaced it before I knew this one was coming and now will have a spare.
4. FUEL. There doesn't appear to be any gas getting to the plug. I did not put a new fuel filter on yet, but I did clean it with carb cleaner, and I can pull fuel up very easily with my vac tester. I dissassembled the carb and the diagphragms look OK, though I will order a carb kit. To see what was going on, I swapped the carb from the other saw in which I already put a carb kit in it, to see if it was a carb problem. Still nothing. Since the carb pump diaphragm is new, and I can pull fuel up the filter with my vac tester, I must have a problem with the impulse line not delivering impulses. There must be an air leak, and I would be willing to bet it is in the impulse line, since my understanding is the oil seals on these saws don't go bad very often. Still, a vac test would tell me, EXCEPT........
To test the vacuum with my home made vac tester, I have to plug up the carb and exhaust ports. Surprisingly enough (at least to me), the gaskets I fabricated for this purpose for the Stihl 026 appear to be the same size on the Husky. But to put them on, I have to remove the muffler, and I CANNOT get one bolt off on the muffler. Not sure how to even get heat into it, and I don't have a 4mm driver bit that reaches (yet). I suspect the answer is that I am going to have to see if the cheap air rachet I have from a kit from Harbor Freight gives enough "tapping" to loosen it, after I cut off the end of an allen wrench to make a 4mm driver for my 4mm socket. I can put alot of torque on it by hand, but I feel like I am going to break the allen wrench or strip the bolt or cut my hand when either happens so I want not to be stupid. Those muffler bolts are really tough to break free on those saws. ANYONE HAVE SOME SUGGESTIONS? I really want to get that muffler off.
I also read that it is worth switching to the newer style air filter instead of the foam one that is on the older parts saw. I have the frame for this pleated nylon filter and will need to buy the element. Another member posted that there can be a problem with the fuel tank breather, and that some have drilled out the oil cap and installed a tank breather from a Stihl 020t to solve the problem of the tuning changing as the gas tank level goes down.
One other question: the workshop manual says the basic setting for the H screw is 3-1/2 turns, and the L screw 1-3/4 turns. That is ALOT different than my Stihls. Are those settings really correct? I have never owned a Husky and have no idea exactly how to start it other than what is written in the manual.
5. BAR and CHAIN. The bar that came with the most recent saw is a Husky bar, but it has a bend in it on one side where it probably fell. It is mild but noticeable. Is it feasible to clamp it between a couple of blocks of hardwood or particle board to straighten it? Or should I just plan on buying a new 12" bar? Don't think it is worth paying someone to straighten it on a little bar like that. Chain looks almost brand new.
The other saw had an Oregon bar in good shape, but with a very worn chain. Curiously, the Oregon bar does not have a separate small bar oil hole? It looks like it might still get oil from the two big holes that are used for tensioning, but even those don't seem to line up quite right with the tensioner. I am a little suspicious that this bar may not really be made for this saw, but I have never had an Oregon bar and perhaps that is how they are made to fit multiple saws?
6. CHAIN BRAKE. The chain brake band on one parts saw is broken, and on the other, the grey activation handle has a crack at its pivot. I should be able to get one complete assembly between the two of them.
7. PLASTIC. The only plastic I am still missing to make one complete saw is the spark cover, which I don't really need to operate it. The one case has some cracks on one side, and with regard to the muffler cover, the plastic pillar broke off at the top where the screw attaches. On that case, I am going to cut a slab of corian off and glue and screw it to the edge as reinforcing, then drill it out for the screw. I think it is salvageable and worth the effort. On the other one, the one that is in place, the only defect I see so far is the oil cap has a tendency to want to slip as it is tightened all the way down. I also noticed that the o-rings on both caps are pretty hard, so I may end up replacing them at some point.
Next step: find that air leak, which means test the crankcase vacuum, which means GET THAT MUFFLER OFF! I have pics of the first parts saw on my previous post about "What was I thinking" at this link:
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/191051-2.htm
I will post new pics as i move forward.
Robert
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