noodling basics
- Thread starter phil21502
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
savageactor7
ArboristSite Guru
Lay the round bark side up, lay the running saw along the length of the round and let the saw do the cutting. clear out the rats nest of shavings every so often to prevent overheating. This site has excellent pics of noodling I'll check for them.
Here's one anyway
http://www.arboristsite.com/firewood-heating-wood-burning-equipment/128822.htm
Here's one anyway
http://www.arboristsite.com/firewood-heating-wood-burning-equipment/128822.htm
Last edited:
Dalmatian90
Addicted to ArboristSite
I think the only way you can suck at Noodling is if you're actually Ripping instead!
See the pics at:
Just Ducky: Noodling
and make sure you saw is oriented the right way. The guys who make lumber rip with chainsaw mills, and they use huge saws with special chains because it's a much, much tougher thing to do.
Other then that, keep the noodles cleared out of your sprocket cover (set chain brake first, then pull them out if needed).
See the pics at:
Just Ducky: Noodling
and make sure you saw is oriented the right way. The guys who make lumber rip with chainsaw mills, and they use huge saws with special chains because it's a much, much tougher thing to do.
Other then that, keep the noodles cleared out of your sprocket cover (set chain brake first, then pull them out if needed).
OH_Varmntr
Burner of stored sunlight
Some folks will cut the rear portion out of their clutch cover so it will clear noodles easier so they don't have to constantly remove a wad of noodles. This obviously makes it easier to expose your hand to the clutch and chain so please use your head before doing so.
I've got a few spare clutch covers and thought about doing so for my 026. I noodled a 55gal drum full of ash noodles the other day. My wife uses it as bedding for the chicken coop.
I've got a few spare clutch covers and thought about doing so for my 026. I noodled a 55gal drum full of ash noodles the other day. My wife uses it as bedding for the chicken coop.
Swamp Yankee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Since no one asked
What saw are you using and what type of chain?
There is a huge difference in trying to cut noodles with a 50cc saw vs an 80cc saw. Inboard clutches seem to work better than outboard as there's less "stuff" to get in the way. On a 20 inch or longer bar for noodling I prefer RSF on a seven tooth sprocket as it doesn't make as many chips and gives more time to get those created out of the clutch housing.
The type of wood makes a huge difference too. Red oak is a whole lot easier to noodle than shagbark hickory. Use a sharp chain and do not dog in. Let the saw feed itself. As mentioned try to cut at a slight downward angle rather than pull straight across the grain. Make sure the oiler is pushing the oil through and not getting blocked up.
The rest if you have the correct equipment is just practice.
Take Care
What saw are you using and what type of chain?
There is a huge difference in trying to cut noodles with a 50cc saw vs an 80cc saw. Inboard clutches seem to work better than outboard as there's less "stuff" to get in the way. On a 20 inch or longer bar for noodling I prefer RSF on a seven tooth sprocket as it doesn't make as many chips and gives more time to get those created out of the clutch housing.
The type of wood makes a huge difference too. Red oak is a whole lot easier to noodle than shagbark hickory. Use a sharp chain and do not dog in. Let the saw feed itself. As mentioned try to cut at a slight downward angle rather than pull straight across the grain. Make sure the oiler is pushing the oil through and not getting blocked up.
The rest if you have the correct equipment is just practice.
Take Care
was using my 33cc poulan with 16 inch bar and then used the poulan pro 50cc with 16 inch bar once the green poulan died. really want a husky 555 but have to wait an see if we have tax money leftover this year. lol
Use a long bar and keep the saw 6" away from the log so the noodles fall downward instead of getting jammed in the clutch cover.
Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
This is really the first year I've done much in the way of noodling because I can't stand using fuel to do what my axe should do. But I also can't stand twisted logs that can't be stacked.
I like LoPro chain for noodling - you can really tell the difference the narrower kerf makes. But of course that is limited to an 18" or less bar. Make you're not using a safety chain with the big shark fin bumpers, as they take up too much room in the kerf for clearing the noodles. I also tend to prefer my one saw without a chain brake, as there is less stuff in there to get clogged and overheated. I have an extra old clutch cover for it I'm thinking about modifying for noodle duty.
I like LoPro chain for noodling - you can really tell the difference the narrower kerf makes. But of course that is limited to an 18" or less bar. Make you're not using a safety chain with the big shark fin bumpers, as they take up too much room in the kerf for clearing the noodles. I also tend to prefer my one saw without a chain brake, as there is less stuff in there to get clogged and overheated. I have an extra old clutch cover for it I'm thinking about modifying for noodle duty.
El Quachito
ArboristSite Operative
When working smaller pieces or odd sized knots I like to make sure the dogs are touching (but not dogged up) so the plastic cases on my Rancher don't get kicked by the piece of wood. I will also rest whatever I am cutting on top a chopping block or another round.
BTW, I never heard of "noodling" before this site. But I had been doing it for years as "ripping."
Cheers
'Quatch
BTW, I never heard of "noodling" before this site. But I had been doing it for years as "ripping."
Cheers
'Quatch
treemandan
Tree Freak
Well THERE'S YER PROBLEM!
I don't always noodle but when I do I usually am plumb drunk.
Coldfront
Addicted to ArboristSite
Why do you guys do so much noodling anyway? I have noodled once in my life on a couple of pieces of white oak that was about 38" dia. I usually just make 2 cross cuts on a big dia. log if I can't lift it I split it with wedges.
NDtreehugger
ArboristSite Guru
I do a lot of noodling using the noodles for fire starter.
I like the non-safety yellow stihl chain best with the depth
gauge ground down about 50 thousands.
The saw I use Stihl ms 361
I like the non-safety yellow stihl chain best with the depth
gauge ground down about 50 thousands.
The saw I use Stihl ms 361
D&B Mack
Sawin Wit It!
More power the better. I use my 660 most of the time.
I try to use a bar that is at least 6" longer than the log. So, with the dual dawgs on a 660, I like the 28" bar the best. This lets noodles that cycle back through come off the other end; that way you aren't pulling noodles through the bottom more than once.
On the 660, I took off the stock chain catcher and went only with the ceramic roller, this lets the noodles come out much better.
Always be a little out of level, but not too far. Too far and you are starting to rip. Slight rocking back and forth keeps the bar-to-wood exposure at a minimum.
Elevating wood helps, makes the clean through cut easier so you are not near the ground with noodles piling up under your clutch cover.
Hope this helps and pile-o-way!!!
I try to use a bar that is at least 6" longer than the log. So, with the dual dawgs on a 660, I like the 28" bar the best. This lets noodles that cycle back through come off the other end; that way you aren't pulling noodles through the bottom more than once.
On the 660, I took off the stock chain catcher and went only with the ceramic roller, this lets the noodles come out much better.
Always be a little out of level, but not too far. Too far and you are starting to rip. Slight rocking back and forth keeps the bar-to-wood exposure at a minimum.
Elevating wood helps, makes the clean through cut easier so you are not near the ground with noodles piling up under your clutch cover.
Hope this helps and pile-o-way!!!
El Quachito
ArboristSite Operative
I don't do it a heckuva lot to be honest. Really only for the toughest knots that can't possibly be split. Or with a big tree and a big saw I'll stand a round on end and quarter it bar deep so it will bust apart easy.
Cheers
'Quatch
I do it to save my back, I get all my wood from scrounging and the bigger the better. I have a big bore kit on my Home Depot rental and it noodles almost as fast as it cross cuts.
To the op I suggest you get the biggest saw you can afford and keep your chain sharp and your back and shoulders will thank you. Also check out the Home Depot rental centers and you'll find one of the makita 6400s for $250.00 eventually. Even without the bb kit they are one he'll of a saw.
To the op I suggest you get the biggest saw you can afford and keep your chain sharp and your back and shoulders will thank you. Also check out the Home Depot rental centers and you'll find one of the makita 6400s for $250.00 eventually. Even without the bb kit they are one he'll of a saw.
Usually I noodle just enough to set it up for the maul- don't need the kindling.
Best saw I've seen yet for noodling: Poulan Pro PP5020AV. It just refuses to clog, and engine has no problem with 20" bar noodling.
Best saw I've seen yet for noodling: Poulan Pro PP5020AV. It just refuses to clog, and engine has no problem with 20" bar noodling.
haveawoody
Addicted to ArboristSite
If your on a less than powerful saw make sure.
1. Dont cut at a direct 90 degree angle when noodling, a slight angle off 90 helps to clear the chips away.
2. keep the back of the bar an inch or two from toughing the wood, allows better chip flow, use more caution though cutting this way and the bar can grab and pull in on you.
3. If it's a real underpowered saw, noodle for 5 seconds, lift up just a bit then repeat, clears teeth and give a small motor a chance to catch up.
4.get a more powerful saw
I personally place my round flat ontop of another round and just cut right through.
Real big rounds stand on side and cut until you are near the ground, roll and finish the cut from the other side, less than good for the back though so do just a couple and then do something else and return for a couple more later.
1. Dont cut at a direct 90 degree angle when noodling, a slight angle off 90 helps to clear the chips away.
2. keep the back of the bar an inch or two from toughing the wood, allows better chip flow, use more caution though cutting this way and the bar can grab and pull in on you.
3. If it's a real underpowered saw, noodle for 5 seconds, lift up just a bit then repeat, clears teeth and give a small motor a chance to catch up.
4.get a more powerful saw
I personally place my round flat ontop of another round and just cut right through.
Real big rounds stand on side and cut until you are near the ground, roll and finish the cut from the other side, less than good for the back though so do just a couple and then do something else and return for a couple more later.
Stihlman441
Addicted to ArboristSite
If you lower the bar nose the noodles become shorter.
[video=youtube;jnlGWXyODtY]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jnlGWXyODtY[/video]
[video=youtube;jnlGWXyODtY]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jnlGWXyODtY[/video]
