Not quite a chainsaw...but 2-stroke related

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Jason280

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I know this isn't a chainsaw, but need a little help with a Tecumseh carb repair.

I picked up a small/portable Tecumseh TCII tiller, with the TC300 2-stroke engine. Compression is over 100psi, and piston looks good on both the intake and exhaust sides. Carb was pretty nasty, and had been cleaned up. Main issue I have run into is the plastic fuel inlet elbow is cracked and leaking fuel. Local shop didn't carry these elbows, and stated that they are not replaceable...stated elbow and insert should be replaced as a pair.

Any reason the elbow can't simply be swapped over? The brass inlet is barbed, and I cannot imagine why a new elbow wouldn't pop in place and work correctly.









 
If they come as a single part then buy it. If they come separate I would consider cost vs the service guys advice. Do you think the plastic will press over the brass well without damaging either? Will you need to warm the plastic and compress while cooling?
 
I can't imagine it wasn't simply "pressed" on in the first place, and hey are available online.
 
Isn't a TC2 a small tiller like a Mantis/D.R. unit? The couple top pics aren't of the tiller are they?
 
Just do it right and replace the whole elbow. The new elbow comes already pressed onto the metal barbed piece and is not easy to separate without breaking it. Just twist the old one out with small vice grips and press the new one in.
 
Yeah, the first three pics are of an Ariens RT6020 with a 4-stroke Tecumseh 6hp. Not sure how they were linked, and it wouldn't let me edit them back out.
 
Just do it right and replace the whole elbow. The new elbow comes already pressed onto the metal barbed piece and is not easy to separate without breaking it. Just twist the old one out with small vice grips and press the new one in.

I thought about that, but haven't been able to find both pieces together. Plus, with the pair assembled as a unit, how will I press fit it into the carb without damaging the new elbow?
 
Looks like long enough of a nub to slip some tubing over it then connect to a fuel grade two male end elbow to make the turn.

P.S. my 1972 troybuilt (when they were made in Troy NY) is running perfect. Never been inside the engine and only recently in the carb due to E10 snot. Never again E10.
 
Looks like long enough of a nub to slip some tubing over it then connect to a fuel grade two male end elbow to make the turn.

I've considered that as well. In fact, if it weren't for the angle, I could simply attach the fuel line directly to the barb and zip-tie it in place.
 
That looks like a Husky tiller, worked on those, get the elbow assm and be done. Just press it in with a bench vice with two blocks of wood to padden it. Grease that transmission at the grease fitting or the worm gear grive will wear itself out and that's a whole trans, no replacement parts. Rebuilt one for a guy 5 years ago and he still runs it.

Steve
 

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