oh boy

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Jackbnimble

Addicted to ArboristSite
Joined
Oct 21, 2014
Messages
2,230
Reaction score
1,285
as usual, my expertise in all things chainsaws has been sought by the commoner. a real dodo bird asked me the other day why his guide bar had developed a sharp sliver about an inch and a half long on the edge towards it base. he also claims the "confirmed" right sized chain for it doesn't fit perfectly, that it rides high around the tip or bulges a bit on the straight upside or downside sections-but not both at the same time, even while the rest of the chain is tight. poor slob. such simple problems confound these average boobs! I told him someone here might not mind addressing the issue. what do you say fellas? anybody care to donate a moment or 2 to help the novice in the spirit of the upcoming holidays? thanks
 
Why do I suspect you're having these problems?:confused:

Dress your bar, file off the burr and make sure the guide rails are square and the same height.

Check your chain for pinched links or for a drive link (the part that rides in the bar groove) isn't bent.

Thanks very much. Great advice. Appreciate it!
 
Did as you suggested and it ran beautifully. Thanks much.
I noticed toward the end of the bar (that is fastened to the engine) 3 "tabs" or small, low, rectangles that stick up from the groove maybe a 16th of an inch and are about a quarter inch long. When I cleaned the groove out, the gauge I used caught on them. Do you know what they are?
 
I don't know what you mean. Got a pic?

I don't know how to upload a picture yet, but I'll try to learn.
Normally the groove in a chainsaw guide bar is smooth and even all the way around the bar except for the tip, I'm assuming.
At the other end of my 28" bar, there are these little "protuberances" that form part of the bar and are located inside of it along the bottom of the groove, but stick up above the bottom of the groove a small but noticeable amount. They are solid, little rectangular bumps.
 
My guess is that they (by design) contribute to putting bar oil into the little hole in the bar to get bar oil onto the part of the chain that rides in the groove.
 
My guess is that they (by design) contribute to putting bar oil into the little hole in the bar to get bar oil onto the part of the chain that rides in the groove.

Thanks for your input. Maybe that is what they are for; I wondered about that, too. Just came in to try to photograph the little rascals so you guys can see them. The groove being on the narrow side is not helping!
 
They can't be photographed. its kind of like getting a photo of a yeti. You may think you have a photo….but noone will believe you….Having said that….I want to see the picture(s)!
 
They can't be photographed. its kind of like getting a photo of a yeti. You may think you have a photo….but noone will believe you….Having said that….I want to see the picture(s)!


I hope no one will believe this: I thoroughly cleaned my baby, my 660, sharpened the chain, put new fuel and expensive Stihl oil in her and burned the whole tank on making a beam from red oak, --without the air filter I had just purged of all wood dust. .
 
F the yeti and protuberences in yer bar…..Lets see some phots… of that BEAM!!!:thisthreadisworthlesswithoutpictures:


I'm working on it. I took several pictures with my Tablet, but I haven't created an email account on it yet, so I can't transfer the images to my PC.
 
Glory.

Just bought a brand new chain for the 28" bar. Couldn't wait to enjoy the feel of cutting butter once again. Indeed, it was like warm butter for 20 minutes or so until I nicked a rock with it. I am a little tired of rocks showing up out of nowhere, especially when I least expect them, you know? Just as I was thoroughly enjoying the deepening kerf slashed from its razor-sharp teeth at 60mph, I caught that rock nice and flush. Man!

However. The good news is, I finally used the sharpening tools and techniques I've been studying (4ever) and she sliced through red oak again today like she was hungry for wood.
 
BTW, what's the best way you guys have found to lift large tree trunks off the ground to avoid damaging your saw on the ground? Peaveys are nice for up to a few hundred pounds worth of tree, but not several thousand, right? Suppose you could make one with a handle about 40 feet long for leverage, but ...
 
For me there is no lifting the big pieces once they are horiz. Sometimes I'll place some logs or limbs perpend. to the drop of the stem so I have some relief. Other than that its all about pockets in the terrain below the stem, wedges, and making noodles if needed to quarter out big rounds. I also tend do the last 1o or so feet towards the stump last so when I start cutting into the buried barb wire, hammock screws, "posted" sign nails/screws, dirt pockets, and, or sap taps I don't get as pissed off…..Thats what works for me (small scale, lots of residential/farm stuff)…Always nice to keep the chain sharp (both by avoiding getting it dull, and by maintaining it)
 
BTW, what's the best way you guys have found to lift large tree trunks off the ground to avoid damaging your saw on the ground? Peaveys are nice for up to a few hundred pounds worth of tree, but not several thousand, right? Suppose you could make one with a handle about 40 feet long for leverage, but ...

Saw your pieces through as far as you can before you hit dirt, then use the peavey to roll the log over and cut the little straps. No need to lift the log.
 
Or by having a couple spare. Last time I hit a clothesline pulley I was foaming at the mouth. Have kept spare sharp ones on hand since. No wasting time.

X1000 Absoloopely! I'm loopy! Always carrying a **** ton of fresh loops (and an extra bar) for every saw I have with me.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top