OK, Canola oil. WTH?

[dancan]

Canada oil !

I'll use some of that ,
Oops's I thought this was a post about Canada oil !
http://www.unibroue.com/graphs_our_beers/trois_pistoles.html

 

[Banacanin]

I'll use some of that ,
Oops's I thought this was a post about Canada oil !
http://www.unibroue.com/graphs_our_beers/trois_pistoles.html

I had the beer you posted tonight and I really enjoyed watching the log drivers waltz, growing up it was a favourite of ours and we used to crank the volume on the tv whenever it came on

edit I just looked up the two singers of the Song Kate and Anna McGarrigle and it seems Kate died of Cancer earlier this year :-(

 

[tdi-rick]

Unfortunately the bloke offering me this mix vanished, but I am still chasing him up

On another score, here's another reason to use canola (Full thread here in Milling forum)
***********************************************************
I was looking at a table of specific heats of various oils yesterday (specific heat is the amount of heat an oil can absorb per unit mass) and noticed that Canola can carry 15% more heat per unit mass than mineral oil. Canola also has one of the highest heat capacities of vegetable oils except for Soya bean and Olive.

This means that canola should remove more heat from the bar and chain but it won't be 15% more because a good bar oil will form a thicker barrier between bar and chain than canola, and this will reduce friction and the amount of of heat generated in the first place.

Also when canola is used in the saw, probably more than 15% more canola probably comes off at the nose but this is not necessarily bad because it is removing heat. Canola makes a lot of sense to use in CS milling in the aux oiler and delivered on the cutting side of the bar where needing to trave around the nose doesn't matter.

[snip]

Cheers Bob, it makes sense, as Canola oil is an ester.
All it needs is somewhere between 0.5 and 1.5% tackifier like Paratac or Vanlube's TK100 and it cures the problem of going round the bar, then add a small % of AW additives and I reckon it would be superior to most all mineral brews.
The Lubrizol additive, 7662 also had some antimicrobials and antioxidants on top of the tackifier, EP and AW package which is why you need to add at around 18%/volume, but it means your >90% biodegradeable bar lube then has a reasonable shelf life.

 

[tdi-rick]

[snip]

This means that canola should remove more heat from the bar and chain but it won't be 15% more because a good bar oil will form a thicker barrier between bar and chain than canola, and this will reduce friction and the amount of of heat generated in the first place.

[snip]

Oops, I missed this bit first time around.

Not necessarily Bob.
Thin film thickness, film strength and coefficient of friction aren't necessarily mutually exclusive.
It all comes down to the viscosity of the base canola oil and whatever additives the mineral oil may or may not possess.
I've dynoed (and used) a 0W-5 engine oil (and yes, I'm aware no such actual SAE viscosity range actually exists, but the stuff is bloody thin and pours like water) that absolutely flogged higher viscosity oils of any sort from any blender at the time ('93) in a standard Falex test. (a test of film strength)
FWIW a Falex test would actually be more applicable to chain and bar lube than an engine oil IMO too.

There is a company in the US ATM that is blending brilliant oils using HOBS (High Oleic Base Stocks, eg High Oleic Canola) bases, so they are renewable and bio. They absolutely outperform most all the best boutique syn oils I'm aware of in extreme conditions, let alone good old mineral based lubes.

 

[one.man.band]

does anyone who uses canola through the colder months had any issues?

(could not find any info on this, in searching old threads).

-joe

 

[the westspartan]

I have used pure canola in my saws for about 4 years now with no issues. I don't store saws with it in them.