Olympyk 264

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striper1

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I got this saw from an uncle that had no need for it. The problem I have with it is that it cuts a curve in a piece of wood and can't seem to get it to go away. The bar is straight and the grooves are true. I have 2 chains for the saw and both chains ill also cut in a curve. This points me back to the bar. It is the original bar that came with it,not after market. Is there something I should do or just get another bar? Any suggestions if so? This saw did cut good and still runs strong. (20" bar)
 
olys originally ran 058 chain---if that chain is 050--that would be a problem-----the bar needs to be ground real true--to have a flat, and full rail--not just riding on 1/3 of the thickness of the rail top----and if either the bar, or chain is significantly wore--that chain will be all over the place---and, the chain needs to be snug---also--the cutter lengths can affect it--if they are far enough off------
 
I have not gotten familiar with that sizing yet. It is a 3/8" chain but will check it out further. I can see how the 050 would effect the running in that way. If I understand it correctly that number refers to the width of the portion of the chain riding in the bar track?
 
I am getting more confused. I was set to get another bar & chain combo and go from there. The problem being the bar on the saw is .058 (punched into bar)and an Oregon replacement for that saw calls for an .050. I can not tell if the bar on it is origanal or not and can't get a hold of the uncle. I also measure the distance between the drive teeth on a known Stihl .050 and it was 5/8" as is the distance on the Olympyk as well. Does that mean the olimpyk should be using .050 bar?
 
olys originally ran 058 chain---if that chain is 050--that would be a problem-----the bar needs to be ground real true--to have a flat, and full rail--not just riding on 1/3 of the thickness of the rail top----and if either the bar, or chain is significantly wore--that chain will be all over the place---and, the chain needs to be snug---also--the cutter lengths can affect it--if they are far enough off------

+1 - sounds exactly the same as a saw my brother gave me to look at because it was cutting curved - it turned out to be an 050 chain on an 058 bar

The distance between the links is generally not related to the bar groove and corresponding drive link thickness.
 
I ordered a new matched bar & chain from Carlton. .058, 70 drive links 20". See how it all works out.

I thought the pitch reffered to the distance between drive teeth on the sprocket. Is it correct to say that it is the width of the drive link?
 

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