if you dont mind educating a cherry, what specifically do you do grinding wise to a brand new chain?
Do you do it specifically because the species of tree that you tend to cut?
I thought I read that west coasters can increase the cut depth a bit b/c the wood is softer which makes a lot of sense.
Would you make the same grind changes if you were felling and bucking wood like oak, maple and and ash?
Does the power of the saw matter in your sharpening? say a 50cc vs a 70cc?
Regarding new chain I use almost exclusively chisel ground chisel chain and of that mostly full skip 3/8, .063. On chisel/chisel chain you want the grinder to create or should I say maintain the basic effect of two chisel surfaces at roughly 90 degrees to each other. The edges of those two chisel surfaces should meet at a corner or point. When chain is ground at the factory those two edges frequently don't meet at the corner that is made into the chain. The chain bits simply don't cut properly. Furthermore, the grind at the factory is done before the chain is assembled so the "sharp" bits fall into a bin where the surfaces dull just rubbing against each other as the various pieces of the chain come together for assembly. Much the same as a spare sharp chain dulls in a pants pocket, wedge pouch or just bouncing around in a pickup truck. So every professional cutter that I know grinds their new chain. My primary grinder is a Silvey SDM-4 and they have very little adjustments as to the angles delivered so what you get is what you get. Ray Silvey knew what he was doing and the angles are really good.
At work I cut almost exclusively soft woods although here in California's Sierra Nevada there are usually several different species of soft woods growing in the same stand and while some are harder than others most of us run our rakers at .035 and from the factory it is usually set at .025 so that requires grinding when new also. To heat my house I burn either oak (Quercus kelloggii) or Madrone (Arbutus menziesii). These woods can be pretty hard especially if dead so I run my rakers higher and also use full compliment chain.
As far as the power of the saw I use only bigger motors so my chain setup stays basically the same however on bars 28" and less I use full comp, 32" and 34" bars get semi skip and bars longer than that get full skip although I do have a few loops of full comp spun up for 36" bars on my old 084 that I use when cutting big hard woods. (My next door neighbor had a 5+ foot oak fall over in a snow storm last year and I got the wood- over 9 cords. Yea baby!)
Compare a new factory ground chain to a new chain that you ground before using. If you can't feel a difference then don't take the time to grind new chain in the future. I don't recommend filing chisel/chisel chain. It's just too hard for most humans to get the angles right. If you're using round ground/filed chain and don't have a grinder I HIGHLY recommend the Granberg File-N-Joint. I bought one of those when I was a teenager and until I started acquiring grinders that little thing was the single greatest chainsaw accessory I ever purchased and I'm 64 years old so I've bought a lot of stuff over the years.
Hope that helps. Happy new year! Be safe.