One ugly smurf.

[GrassGuerilla]

Maybe I should add the subtitle "I've been butt raped by a smurf seller"?

I assumed the $200 selling price was a fair number for a former rental mule with the scars to show for its previous life. I didn't however expect to find this when I took it home and pulled the clutch cover. I assumed the worst. Cracked case, or a busted bar stud mount. Well, I finally got the time and desire to see wtf?

Turns out, the seller was just a moron. It appears, as I see it to be a JB weld hack job cover up. After removing most of the epoxy, it seems it all started with a worn out rim sprocket. Once the chain would no longer remain tensioned properly, it started eating itself. Not much chain catcher left, looks to have been fed into the chain quite a bit. Little rash on the clutch cover, and a bit on the case too. Not sure if the inner guide plate screws fell victim to the chain flopping all around, or the sellers screwdriver. But both are busted off in the case.

The epoxy apparently was intended to hold the guide plate in place... At least that's what I'm thinking.

I'm going to need some dolmar parts. Any preferred web sources? I'd like to order a new set of bar studs & nuts, guide plates, rim sprocket, and a new chain catcher.

I've drilled out busted screws before, just never from a mag case. Any advice before I give her a go? I plan to center punch it and hope for the best. I'm assuming the holes are relatively shallow and can be done without splitting the case, yeah? Any advice appreciated.

20 years ago I would have returned to the seller and JB welded his truck door locks...

 

[GrassGuerilla]

I should add the good part... It has good comp, starts, runs great, and oils fine. I have a new bar for it, and am anxious to see it at its best.

 

[cgraham1]

I've had good luck with this...

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/conversations/add?to=fordf150

 

[lone wolf]

View attachment 385855 View attachment 385856 View attachment 385857 Maybe I should add the subtitle "I've been butt raped by a smurf seller"?

I assumed the $200 selling price was a fair number for a former rental mule with the scars to show for its previous life. I didn't however expect to find this when I took it home and pulled the clutch cover. I assumed the worst. Cracked case, or a busted bar stud mount. Well, I finally got the time and desire to see wtf?

Turns out, the seller was just a moron. It appears, as I see it to be a JB weld hack job cover up. After removing most of the epoxy, it seems it all started with a worn out rim sprocket. Once the chain would no longer remain tensioned properly, it started eating itself. Not much chain catcher left, looks to have been fed into the chain quite a bit. Little rash on the clutch cover, and a bit on the case too. Not sure if the inner guide plate screws fell victim to the chain flopping all around, or the sellers screwdriver. But both are busted off in the case.

The epoxy apparently was intended to hold the guide plate in place... At least that's what I'm thinking.

I'm going to need some dolmar parts. Any preferred web sources? I'd like to order a new set of bar studs & nuts, guide plates, rim sprocket, and a new chain catcher.

I've drilled out busted screws before, just never from a mag case. Any advice before I give her a go? I plan to center punch it and hope for the best. I'm assuming the holes are relatively shallow and can be done without splitting the case, yeah? Any advice appreciated.

20 years ago I would have returned to the seller and JB welded his truck door locks...

Did he represent that the saw was 100 percent and everything worked good and had no problems? If so make him take it back or get compensation for the repairs!

 

[GrassGuerilla]

Did he represent that the saw was 100 percent and everything worked good and had no problems? If so make him take it back or get compensation for the repairs!

CL transaction. He doesn't answer my calls... It is what it is I guess. I did keep his address in my gps. I don't see any good coming from further pursuit of him though. This is my turd sandwich... Mmmm.

I need an IPL to start.

 

[GrassGuerilla]

I've had good luck with this...

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/conversations/add?to=fordf150

Clint, that link starts a "conversation" with member f-150. Was that your intent? Thanks in advance.

 

[Saw Dr.]

I've drilled out busted screws before, just never from a mag case. Any advice before I give her a go? I plan to center punch it and hope for the best. I'm assuming the holes are relatively shallow and can be done without splitting the case, yeah? Any advice appreciated.

I don't think I'd center punch the screws. You have no idea how much of them is actually in there, plus the case is softer than the screws. I'd get a center mark on them with a Dremel, and then go at it with a LH drill bit.

You could also cut a slot with a Dremel cutoff wheel, heat the case, and try turning them out with a standard flat-blade screwdriver. Of course, you would mark up the bar mount pad a bit, but it is already fairly ugly. I'd pull the studs, and sand it square, just to make sure there are no oil leaks.

For $200, you did well even with that ugliness. That is 3x the saw $200 will get you anywhere new.

 

[67L36Driver]

Morning Art!

Just shows to go you that some will do damn near anything to get over on the next fellow.

I think slow going with a Dremel is your best bet.

Last ditch effort would be to plug weld a suitable nut to the screw remains with a wire feed welder, the steel filler won't stick to the alloy.

 

[GrassGuerilla]

Here's what I have so far. I'll hit it with a file when I get home. Guide plate itself is warbled a bit. I'm just relieved that it wasn't hiding a busted case or stud mount.

I'm still thinking drill the screws, if I can lay hands on some left hand twist drill bits.

 

[shootingarts]

View attachment 385882
Here's what I have so far. I'll hit it with a file when I get home. Guide plate itself is warbled a bit. I'm just relieved that it wasn't hiding a busted case or stud mount.

I'm still thinking drill the screws, if I can lay hands on some left hand twist drill bits.

First some kroil, then some gentle tapping directly on top of the screws to help it creep. Give it an hour or two, tapping for a few minutes now and then. After that, the left hand drill bits. If that doesn't walk the screws out then an easyout. I have had good luck using tiny easyouts but maybe I am just lucky. Steel on steel if the left hand drill didn't walk the screws out I often put a strong soldering iron directly on the hole to heat the screw faster than the surrounding metal. I don't have any idea if that is a good thought or not with the magnesium case. You wouldn't be getting it hot enough to catch fire but I don't know anything about expansion rates, thermal transfer, threads weakening enough to be an issue, all those little details!

Hopefully somebody else will comment on the heat and chainsaw cases idea. I'm still scratching my head about how to disassemble some parts I froze and then put together for a I thought permanent install!

Hu

 

[Big_Wood]

are you sure those are both screws? i'm not familiar with the smurfs so can't say for sure but be aware that one could be an oil tank vent. i would drill with the smallest drill bit i could find and use the smallest easy out i could find. if you ever tried getting a busted bolt of of rusty steel or marine corroded aluminum getting it out of mag will almost seem like all you had to do was blow on it in comparison LOL

 

[half_full]

are the inner guide plate screws required? once the bar is on and bar nuts tight, would the guide plate have alignment issues? Just a thought...

 

[Wagnerwerks]

Definitely left hand drill bits. Most of the time, they come out the rest of the way with just the bit when the top portion is drilled out. FYI, mac tools has lifetime warranty left hand bits. They were decent quality when I sold them.

 

[GrassGuerilla]

are you sure those are both screws? i'm not familiar with the smurfs so can't say for sure but be aware that one could be an oil tank vent. i would drill with the smallest drill bit i could find and use the smallest easy out i could find. if you ever tried getting a busted bolt of of rusty steel or marine corroded aluminum getting it out of mag will almost seem like all you had to do was blow on it in comparison LOL

That's a good question. A closer look at the IPL shows the hole to the left o the right stud is a screw hole. The right hole isn't labeled that I can see from a phone. I'll certainly take a closer look before I start drilling.

 

[lone wolf]

That's a good question. A closer look at the IPL shows the hole to the left o the right stud is a screw hole. The right hole isn't labeled that I can see from a phone. I'll certainly take a closer look before I start drilling.

I got a 7900 here should I take a pic?

 

[lone wolf]

Definitely left hand drill bits. Most of the time, they come out the rest of the way with just the bit when the top portion is drilled out. FYI, mac tools has lifetime warranty left hand bits. They were decent quality when I sold them.

You sold Mac tools?

 

[blsnelling]

The larger hole that is plugged is the tank vent. It must be unplugged in order for the oiler to work correctly.

http://download.dolmar.com/manuals/23803.pdf

 

[GrassGuerilla]

I got a 7900 here should I take a pic?

Don't go to any trouble, but if you're bored and its handy... Sure!

I'm running the MIL to a couple Drs appointments today. Nothing but time on my hands.

 

[Wagnerwerks]

You sold Mac tools?

Yes.

 

[lone wolf]

Don't go to any trouble, but if you're bored and its handy... Sure!

I'm running the MIL to a couple Drs appointments today. Nothing but time on my hands.

OK so I will post it in an hour or two for you.