smokey7
jack of a lot ace of a few
I agree.
I would go with meteor. They are very good quality....and half the price of OEM. They come with caber rings which are very good too.So you guys think an oem piston or the Meteor brand
Ok, so I'm gonna order a Meteor, clean the piston some more while I wait for the piston.
BTW anyone have one laying around they want to sell before I go looking?
I'm exhausted that was a misprint, I meant the cylinder, I corrected it thanks.Why clean a piston thats scored ?
Checking your squish clearance will determine that. If you have .018" or more you should be safe to run no gasket.Would you guys replace the base gasket or delete it on this saw.
Just cleaned the clutch brake/cover and immediately saw that the brake band is broken. So now I need to get that part also # 503 51 21-01Brake handle is in an odd position, maybe a faller or a broken spring.
The oem was $85. The Meteor was $35. Went with the MeteorCheck with OEM prices. They have come down quite a bit.
Funny you say that, I was kind of thinking the same thing. The muffler was a little rusty the chain guard in the clutch cover the same and it kind of looked like maybe this saw sat in a wet shed maybe. Is is possible that was the beginning of corrosion on there? I'd figure it wouldn't with the oil in the engineI'd use the original bearing.
Almost looks like some chemical reaction occurred between the piston and the pitting in that area of the jug. Like something caustic was between the prison and jug and it sat that way for many years.
Sand those pits smootH, no rings pass that area.
That air box insulator breaks all the time. That's that piece around the intake block.
Make sure you vac test it before you finish assembly. Use blue loctite on the jug to case bolts.
Just rebuilt one. Made a base gasket from coke can, sealed with Motoseal and opened up the muffler. Saw started with 120psi, replaced ring and mods, now has 190 psi with no run time. Do a vacuum test and let it rip. Nice find.Funny you say that, I was kind of thinking the same thing. The muffler was a little rusty the chain guard in the clutch cover the same and it kind of looked like maybe this saw sat in a wet shed maybe. Is is possible that was the beginning of corrosion on there? I'd figure it wouldn't with the oil in the engine
When you say " rings don't pass that area"I'd use the original bearing.
Almost looks like some chemical reaction occurred between the piston and the pitting in that area of the jug. Like something caustic was between the prison and jug and it sat that way for many years.
Sand those pits smootH, no rings pass that area.
That air box insulator breaks all the time. That's that piece around the intake block.
Make sure you vac test it before you finish assembly. Use blue loctite on the jug to case bolts.
Do they make one?Anyone have a service manual for the 262 that covers my serial #. Trying to get all the tourque setting for the screws and such
The one I found online doesn't have that info.
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