Oregon 511Ax Problem

[mikenc]

Recently purchased 511ax. Having trouble getting cutters sharpened on same angle. When set at zero angle vise is crooked. Not square with frame. Came that way from factory. Don't have one to compare mine to. No store sells them locally. If you set vise on 0 angle, right side is closer to frame than left. Able to see with eye the difference. Wander if someone that has one could look at theirs and see if theirs looks the same.

Called Oregon today and sent photos to them. They said it could be in casting, ask if I had access to one to compare. Hate to send unit back if all are made that way.

I have noticed that chain angles do not seem to be exactly the same after a few sharpening.

Would appreciate any help anyone can give.

 

[Fish]

Are you talking about the right/left setting? Mine was off too.
I set mine with a new chain, and scribed the correct marks in the paint,
never had a problem. I'll post a pic, the scribe marks are worn and faded away. It is just where they riveted on the gauge, yours will be different as well.

 

[Gypo Logger]

There should be a set screw on the back of the vice. Play around with that till L&R hand cutters are equal. I never dip the vice for a 10 degree under the top plate thing.
I think the soul use of a grinder is even out rocked cutters to save on the files and do gullet work. Just one grinding stone will do the work of several doz. files.
Only one side of the stone does the grinding, so dress it well and often.
The best setting is when it barely touches the tooth and with a bit of pressure to the handle, that's what makes the best grind. It's a gentle light touch thing.
Burning cutters is sacreligious.
Gypo

 

[Fish]

Had to laugh when I came back in with the pic. I sat here at the computer to load the pic, and kept hearing a rattling/pecking noise in the kitchen,
finally went in there, and a chicken must have followed me in and was
gobbling dogfood.

Anyway, here is a pic of my worn gauge, but you can still make out my scratches from 1992.
I used a new chain at 30/60 degree top plate angle to determine it, kept
gradually inching the chain closer to the wheel until the wheel just barely touched then trued up the angle, then scribed my mark.
I did this with several links off of a new chain.

 

[Gypo Logger]

Had to laugh when I came back in with the pic. I sat here at the computer to load the pic, and kept hearing a rattling/pecking noise in the kitchen,
finally went in there, and a chicken must have followed me in and was
gobbling dogfood.

Anyway, here is a pic of my worn gauge, but you can still make out my scratches from 1992.
I used a new chain at 30/60 degree top plate angle to determine it, kept
gradually inching the chain closer to the wheel until the wheel just barely touched then trued up the angle, then scribed my mark.
I did this with several links off of a new chain.

John. I'd much rather have seen a pic of the chicken eating the dogfood.
I think I've had my grinder for at least 20 years now. Their a great investment as you already know.
Is it beer30 yet? I have to cycle 16K for beverages and hockey game.
Cheers,
John

 

[Fish]

John. I'd much rather have seen a pic of the chicken eating the dogfood.

She was wearing the leather thong you sent.....

I will p.m. you with the pix...........

I started dipping into the beer early today, it is a special occasion,
Brad Pitt's mother's birthday!!!!!!

 

[lawnmowertech37]

Recently purchased 511ax. Having trouble getting cutters sharpened on same angle. When set at zero angle vise is crooked. Not square with frame. Came that way from factory. Don't have one to compare mine to.

No store sells them locally.

If you set vise on 0 angle, right side is closer to frame than left. Able to see with eye the difference. Wander if someone that has one could look at theirs and see if theirs looks the same.

Called Oregon today and sent photos to them. They said it could be in casting, ask if I had access to one to compare. Hate to send unit back if all are made that way.

I have noticed that chain angles do not seem to be exactly the same after a few sharpening.

Would appreciate any help anyone can give.

depends on what part of NC you from

 

[mikenc]

Thanks for the idea of checking with new chain. Checked last night and marked on base, will try using those set points on a few chains see if angle stays same. Checked to see for adjustment to recalibrate angle set screw didn't see one. From post I assume the 10deg.down angle setting does not make a difference in the cutting of the chain, top plate filling angle top plate cutting angle more important right. All my chains 30/60 anyway.

As much as these things cost you would think angles would come from factory correct.
Still would like to find another 511 assembled to look at to compare.
Going to call Northern Tool today see if they have one on display at their store.

Thanks again guys.

 

[Fish]

I like the tilt feature for the full chisel.


What do you mean, angle set screw?

 

[mikenc]

I like the tilt feature for the full chisel.


What do you mean, angle set screw?

Some one had mentioned there may be a set screw to loosen and make adjustment , my grinder does not have one.

 

[Fish]

Not that I know of....
Just true up and mark the one I pictured at 30, set the back at 60, and you
should be ready to go. Use a new chain as a model to hold up to compare,
remove all of the damaged material, keep the wheel in shape and clean with a
dressing brick, and you will get the knack in no time.

 

[Kingsley]

I too have had problems keeping my cutters the same length when I swith left to right. I've got a new chain at home and I'm going to try this method to "fix" my new 511 ax. I'm disappointed to have to be doing this in the first place.

As a sidenote: the directions that came with my grinder are horrible. Constantly having to flip back and forth from the front to the back to look at the illustration. What a joke. Charge me an extra $1 and give me an english manual that is set up to be useful and easily understood!

 

[Kingsley]

Just thought of another question.
Where does everyone with the 511 "ax" version like to keep their vice positioned with the wheel?

I have had best results keeping the wheel just slightly ahead of center (towards me while I'm grinding), but like mentioned above, I'm going to try the above method to perhaps improve my results even more.

 

[Fish]

I have been talking about my grinder, which is an older Efco, who makes the
511 grinder. I got out my new Oregon catalog and looked at the ipl of the
511ax, which has differences.
Here is a pic of the setscrew on mine, which is used to tighten the rail on the drive link to compensate for wear.

http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126985&stc=1&d=1267203609

The 511ax has an additional front/back movement, which Kingsly is talking
about I assume, which is on some of the Stihl grinders, and should be moved
front to back when switching from left to right.

My setup, which does not have that feature, seems to grind well without that feature.
I would suggest that you use a new chain to dial in the spots that your grinder needs to be to duplicate the angle of a new chain, if you like the
factory angles, that is.

I start by getting the cutter close to the wheel, then turn the adj. forward a hair at a time until you hear a faint "ting" of the wheel touching the cutter,
then remove the chain and look closely in the light, then adjust angles a
hair, repeat, etc, until it is exact.
It will take some time, but will be worth it, and mark your settings with
a scribe or marker.

 

[mikenc]

Kingsley i could not get pics sent other way thought i would try this.
Hope it works this way. Sorry to be so much trouble.

Thanks:
Mike

 

[Kingsley]

That makes things a lot clearer. I'll check tonight and report tomorrow.
Marty