I've narrowed down my choices to these two. The automatic chain clamp on the hydraulic assist sounds like a nice touch, but if I understand correctly, the 511ax has a self centering clamp and the 109179 doesn't. Is this something you have to do with every chain? Or do you center the vice once and forget it? I will just be doing my own chains but intend to sharpen for others on a word of mouth basis. The automatic clamping may not be worth it to me if I have to dink around with the vice with every chain. Opinions?
Oregon 511ax vs. 109179 chain grinders
- Thread starter boda65
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lawnmowertech37
Addicted to ArboristSite
the 109179 is the hydraulic assist one the 511ax is the manuel one the 109179 the hydraulic assist closes the chain vise automatically on each time that the motor and wheel are lowered
for to view the two you can go to this url
http://www.cmsmallengines.net/oregon-c29/chainsaw-parts-c174/tools-and-accessories-c488.html
keep in mind i am in the process of putting parts diagrams for both the 109179 and the 511ax on that same catalog
this was discussed earlier last month
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=100912&highlight=511ax
hope this info helps you
calvin
for to view the two you can go to this url
http://www.cmsmallengines.net/oregon-c29/chainsaw-parts-c174/tools-and-accessories-c488.html
keep in mind i am in the process of putting parts diagrams for both the 109179 and the 511ax on that same catalog
this was discussed earlier last month
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=100912&highlight=511ax
hope this info helps you
calvin
What is the consensus on when sharpening a chain with a power grinder regarding whether or not the chain ought to be cleaned prior to sharpening it? What's the likelihood of a dirty oily chain clogging up the grinding wheel or having debris lodge in the mechanism where angular accuracy is affected to the detriment of the sharpening process?
I have read a *lot* of discussions on what grinder and to a lesser degree what wheels to buy but I don't recollect ever seeing this question discussed. After all, you go out and purchase a high dollar grinder because you want to do the best sharpening job possible in a reasonable length of time...does chain cleanliness enter into the equation?
Much ado about nothing?
I have read a *lot* of discussions on what grinder and to a lesser degree what wheels to buy but I don't recollect ever seeing this question discussed. After all, you go out and purchase a high dollar grinder because you want to do the best sharpening job possible in a reasonable length of time...does chain cleanliness enter into the equation?
Much ado about nothing?
KiwiBro
Mill 'em, nails be damned.
Oregon's blurb for the 109179 models says: "All the features of our most popular bench grinder plus a built in..."
So, what is there "most popular bench grinder"?
The site doesn't mention if the 511ax has the self-centering vice feature. If it does and is their most popular model, then by extension, according to the sales blurb, shouldn't the 109179 have it too? Does it? I was keen to find out how that would play out with the hydraulic assist feature of the 109179.
There's either more than the usual loose connections in my head, or the sales blurbs need clarifying.
Also, I read somewhere there were a few problems with chains not running smoothly on the Oregon vice clamps, which was overcome by a free upgrade. I note the latest tecomec grinders have what look like rollers on each end of the vice. Is this the upgrade?
Thanks.
So, what is there "most popular bench grinder"?
The site doesn't mention if the 511ax has the self-centering vice feature. If it does and is their most popular model, then by extension, according to the sales blurb, shouldn't the 109179 have it too? Does it? I was keen to find out how that would play out with the hydraulic assist feature of the 109179.
There's either more than the usual loose connections in my head, or the sales blurbs need clarifying.
Also, I read somewhere there were a few problems with chains not running smoothly on the Oregon vice clamps, which was overcome by a free upgrade. I note the latest tecomec grinders have what look like rollers on each end of the vice. Is this the upgrade?
Thanks.
KiwiBro
Mill 'em, nails be damned.
From what I've read, it's best to clean the chains to avoid clogging standard wheels. There are the fancy and way more expensive ABN wheels that may not clog like the ordinary wheels will, in addition to running cooler and being kinder to the operator's health. I'm not sure but they may also make the coffee and cure world poverty.
mtngun
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yes, the self centering vice is it's selling point. Ditto the Speed Sharp and the Jolly Star.
Dunno, I've never used the 109179.
Dunno, but sometimes the chain does fall into the rollers. Not a big deal.
I never clean my chains. I do touch up the wheel every several chains and I do hit it with grinding lube nearly every chain.
I e-mailed Oregon for this very reason. There response was that the 511AX has the self centering clamp. The 511A does not and the hydraulic clamp model is the 511A with hydraulic assist. So the 511AX is self centering and the 109179 is not.
KiwiBro
Mill 'em, nails be damned.
Thanks for this.
Has anyone here had any problems with the non-roller vice in these units not allowing the chain to slide smoothly? I read it somewhere and that that's the reason for the rollers on the upgraded/newer models and that Oregon has swapped vizes for owners of the old units. Just can't put my mouse on the thread now. I think it was here on AS.
mtngun
Addicted to ArboristSite
According to the info that 596 Jason provided from Oregon, the hydraulic unit uses the 511A type vise, which never had rollers.
The AX uses the self centering vise, which always had rollers.
Actually, the rollers do not work well.
lambs
Stihl crazy after all these years
My two cents worth
On the older model 511a, and the NT version of it, the centering is done with an adjustment bolt threaded into the side of the rail, right where the cutter sits that is being sharpened. You tighten and loosen the bolt to get the chain centered, and then lock it in place with a good old fashioned lock nut. I have used mine on various gauges of chain (.043, .050, and .063) and have not needed to adjust it since. If you get it right, the cutters will be ground to the same length on both sides.
Based on my own experience, and the conversations I've read about the AX issues, I think I'd put much less funds into another NT grinder and be happy. But CAD extends to chain grinders too!
Hope this helps.
On the older model 511a, and the NT version of it, the centering is done with an adjustment bolt threaded into the side of the rail, right where the cutter sits that is being sharpened. You tighten and loosen the bolt to get the chain centered, and then lock it in place with a good old fashioned lock nut. I have used mine on various gauges of chain (.043, .050, and .063) and have not needed to adjust it since. If you get it right, the cutters will be ground to the same length on both sides.
Based on my own experience, and the conversations I've read about the AX issues, I think I'd put much less funds into another NT grinder and be happy. But CAD extends to chain grinders too!
Hope this helps.
KiwiBro
Mill 'em, nails be damned.
Thanks.
KiwiBro
Mill 'em, nails be damned.
Others have mentioned a clean chain (which may just be relative to the grimeyness of the chains they have to grind -whether their own or customers) helps keep the grinding temp down, lessening the chance of wrecking the cutter.
Are you saying it's not an issue, or just not an issue on your chains, or?
Looking for info, I found this thread. How is it this guy can sell the grinders for so much less than the others like Northern Tool and the like? His price is almost $150 less!
BTW, even though it's an old thread, the price is the same so I bought a 109179.
Where's the catch?
BTW, even though it's an old thread, the price is the same so I bought a 109179.
Where's the catch?
Update;
Price is not the same, purchase cancelled.
Price is not the same, purchase cancelled.
roger m
ArboristSite Operative
i have a 511AX and i really like it,grinds perfect on each side, but i saw a seller on fleabay with a bunch of nos 511a grinders a couple of months ago if you prefer the old style vise im sure he still has some:biggrin:
LOTS of threads on this topic if you search. A few listed below
No consensus. I am a chain cleaner. Other guys like to make fun of chain cleaners.
Philbert
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/142164.htm
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/72970.htm
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/117106.htm
(Sorry)
Did not realize that this was such an old thread. But since I am here anyway . . .
I have an Oregon 511A. I centered the vise on set-up and have not adjusted it since*.
Philbert
*EDIT/UPDATE: After more use I have found that centering may need to be adjusted as the wheel diameter wears/changes. But this is still a simple thing to do/check.
Did not realize that this was such an old thread. But since I am here anyway . . .
I have an Oregon 511A. I centered the vise on set-up and have not adjusted it since*.
Philbert
*EDIT/UPDATE: After more use I have found that centering may need to be adjusted as the wheel diameter wears/changes. But this is still a simple thing to do/check.
I realize this is an old post but I am just now getting my grinder set up I would like to know how to center the vise do yo just go back and forth from left and right until they are equal adjusting that bolt thanks for any replies
lambs
Stihl crazy after all these years
On the 511a and its clones, yes. If you loosen the bolt, the chain will shift left, or closer to the wheel. You need to play around with it on a chain that you're about to scrap, and get it centered such that the cutters end up the same length on each side. Once you get it right, you will seldom if ever need to change it.
There still are times when you might want to leave one side a little long just because there's no point in endlessly grinding them back just to match the other side. But if you do this, make certain the depth gauges are adjusted in proportion as well.
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