Oregon Speedcut 95TXL .325 VS 92VXL 3/8lp

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CoreyB

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I was asked to do a shorter more real life video of the Oregon speedcut 95 TXL
so I did a quick felling comparison between it and the 91VXL (3/8LP)
Both are 16" bars but the 3/8lp is a bit shorter I used the little Dolmar 421.
Interesting fact is the width of the cutter on the 95TXL is the same as the Stihl PS.
I did not compare the Stihl because I only have 14" and 18" and it is faster anyways. LOL
 
Could I please ask why you didn't cut a bigger notch/V, & then just cut from the other side using the lower run of the chain, was there a particular reason for the bore cut? Thanks
 
Could I please ask why you didn't cut a bigger notch/V, & then just cut from the other side using the lower run of the chain, was there a particular reason for the bore cut? Thanks
A few factors. But one was just to show how the TXL handled it.
It was a leaning hickory and hickory can be prone to barber chair, and leaning just makes it more probable. It doesn't need a large deep notch. And the bore cut style prevents pinching the bar as well as barber chairs and with the trigger (back strap) I control when the tree is going to fall. It is my preferred method I feel most in control and safest. I hope this answers your questions.
 
Thank you taking the time to produce that.

Both chains were off the shelf sharpened I presume? The 3/8 LP didn't look as sharp from what I could see from your close ups afterwards and it appeared the .325 cut better?
 
I guees I can see the logic in using out-of-the-box sharpening, but it's usually so indifferent in quality that it will likely skew the results a lot.
 
That was my thinking. Maybe have the same person sharpen both chains and adjust rakers so there's a level of consistency.

Corey did you notice any issues bore cutting with that pointy Husky bar?
 
Thank you taking the time to produce that.

Both chains were off the shelf sharpened I presume? The 3/8 LP didn't look as sharp from what I could see from your close ups afterwards and it appeared the .325 cut better?
Yes both chains straight out of the box.


I guees I can see the logic in using out-of-the-box sharpening, but it's usually so indifferent in quality that it will likely skew the results a lot.
I agree especially with Oregon chain. I just sharpened a loop of the 95txl (I haven't been able to cut with it yet)
And I know I can get better results with the 91VXL.
I am interested in seeing if I can get better results from the TXL it seems to be one of the better out of box chains from Oregon.
That was my thinking. Maybe have the same person sharpen both chains and adjust rakers so there's a level of consistency.

Corey did you notice any issues bore cutting with that pointy Husky bar?
I will try to do a comparison of two I sharpened. I bet the VXL will be alot closer and maybe faster. The narrow tip bar is ok. You have to give more pressure and it helps to have a bit of an angel instead of straight through. I do like the narrow for bore cutting smaller trees but that is because it is my preferred felling method.
 
A few factors. But one was just to show how the TXL handled it.
It was a leaning hickory and hickory can be prone to barber chair, and leaning just makes it more probable. It doesn't need a large deep notch. And the bore cut style prevents pinching the bar as well as barber chairs and with the trigger (back strap) I control when the tree is going to fall. It is my preferred method I feel most in control and safest. I hope this answers your questions.
Thanks for your response. Each to his preferred method. I'm just more used to commercial fallers
 
I guees I can see the logic in using out-of-the-box sharpening, but it's usually so indifferent in quality that it will likely skew the results a lot.
I saw the chain coming out of an official Husqvarna box. I think it was the vxl one but not sure if husky branded probably H35 is as variable as Oregon branded. There was a time when H35 in loops was essentially Oregon vx and in rolls was essentially vxl. Then again the variation you speak of has been discussed as to why Husqvarna is building their own chain manufacturing facility. If nose or plunge characteristics are to be demonstrated I would want untouched chain compared.
 
Thanks for your response. Each to his preferred method. I'm just more used to commercial fallers
There is discussion over in the forestry and logging section on here that the method in the video here is becoming required in some contracts to harvest timber. Even to the point getting the cuts approved before the back strap is cut.

 
There is discussion over in the forestry and logging section on here that the method in the video here is becoming required in some contracts to harvest timber. Even to the point getting the cuts approved before the back strap is cut.
That should be good for upping the price of felled trees Referring to getting the approval stamp
 
I was asked to do a shorter more real life video of the Oregon speedcut 95 TXL
so I did a quick felling comparison between it and the 91VXL (3/8LP)
Both are 16" bars but the 3/8lp is a bit shorter I used the little Dolmar 421.
Interesting fact is the width of the cutter on the 95TXL is the same as the Stihl PS.
I did not compare the Stihl because I only have 14" and 18" and it is faster anyways. LOL


It wouldn't be fair to compare chisel to semi-chisel anyway, at least not in this context.

Btw, the little that I have seen regarding comparison between the 95TXL and the Swedish made Husky SP33 (both are replacements for the 95VPX/H30) indicates that the SP33 is the better performing chain. There isn't enough "evidence" that I would call it a fact though, mainly just "first impressions" after a few cuts.
 
There is discussion over in the forestry and logging section on here that the method in the video here is becoming required in some contracts to harvest timber. Even to the point getting the cuts approved before the back strap is cut.
I could understand why using it in many situations is a benefit or at least an extra safty measure. But getting it approved seems a bit over kill and a waist of time and money. If your logger can't approve his own cut then he shouldn't be felling!
 
In my "book" that felling method only is for front-leaners, and is most useful on "heavy" ones, that might barber-chair if an ordinary back cut was used.
 
It wouldn't be fair to compare chisel to semi-chisel anyway, at least not in this context.

Btw, the little that I have seen regarding comparison between the 95TXL and the Swedish made Husky SP33 (both are replacements for the 95VPX/H30) indicates that the SP33 is the better performing chain. There isn't enough "evidence" that I would call it a fact though, mainly just "first impressions" after a few cuts.
I really wish I could get some of the sp33. My rep doesn't even know anything about it and I called again today to see if or when it would be available. No answers. So I guess Oregon wins for now.
 
Sharp chain is the best kind.

I know there are differences in chain designs, and certainly full chisel is faster, but I have a hard time getting worked up over having the optimum chain style. To me chain is a wear item - you file it, it gets dull, you file it again, you hit some junk, you repair it, the nose sprocket explodes and rips the chain apart, etc, etc. I really like a sharp chain and have always enjoyed putting a good edge on blades of all kinds, but for what I do semi-chisel holds up longer and gets more work done. So that's mostly what I use. Heck, in many of the videos of my ported saws they are running TriLink semi lo pro - when it's sharp, it works fine.
 
I have very limited use for semi-chisel, as most of my wood is "clean and green". Still I keep a few around just in case, and for cutting pallets, planks etc.
 
I really wish I could get some of the sp33. My rep doesn't even know anything about it and I called again today to see if or when it would be available. No answers. So I guess Oregon wins for now.
I guess they are "filling" the local market (= NW Europe) first with the new chain, as I believe .325 NK is more common/popular here than in North America?

Personally I am no big user of .325 NK (use it only on the 339xp, that see very little use), mainly because there is no chisel option.
 

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