OT-truck engine trouble

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Hmmm. I'm not experienced with US emissions stuff, but I have a few thoughts.

Backfires in the exhaust are unburnt fuel igniting off the hot exhaust surface. So for some reason, your cylinders (on both sides) are throwing unburnt fuel into the exhaust. Does the exhaust have a link pipe between the two sides - this could cause confusion....? How did the symptoms start? Suddenly....or did they gradually get worse over time?

So unburnt fuel is in the exhaust. It is either:

- no or weak spark, so no ignition in some cylinders
- leaking valves, so mixture leaks out of the cylinders as they compress
- head gasket failure, so mixture is leaking between cylinders. Is it losing water?
- retarded timing, so the spark arrives some time after the exhaust valve is open.
- fuel blockage - so the engine is running massively lean - but that would make it miss, and not chuck smoke

My plan of attack?

0) Check that the plug leads are going to the right plugs. Easy mistake to make.

1) Check the timing. Find TDC, not by looking at the marks on the pulley, but by dialling in the top of no 1 piston though the plug hole. Mark up the pulley from the dialling check, then put the timing light on it. Check against spec. Don't worry too much about fast idle advance at this stage, you're looking for massive retardation at idle.

2) Compression test. Would pick up bad valves and leaking gaskets. If you have a leakdown tester available, that would be good also (similar principle, but better at pinpointing the problem)

Beyond that...well, I'd put a scope on the ignition and see what the heck was
going on - you'd easily see a flaky pick up on the screen. Might also be worth checking the carb for blockages.
 
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Hmmm. I'm not experienced with US emissions stuff, but I have a few thoughts.

Backfires in the exhaust are unburnt fuel igniting off the hot exhaust surface. So for some reason, your cylinders (on both sides) are throwing unburnt fuel into the exhaust. Does the exhaust have a link pipe between the two sides - this could cause confusion....? How did the symptoms start? Suddenly....or did they gradually get worse over time?

So unburnt fuel is in the exhaust. It is either:

- no or weak spark, so no ignition in some cylinders
- leaking valves, so mixture leaks out of the cylinders as they compress
- head gasket failure, so mixture is leaking between cylinders. Is it losing water?
- retarded timing, so the spark arrives some time after the exhaust valve is open.
- fuel blockage - so the engine is running massively lean - but that would make it miss, and not chuck smoke

My plan of attack?

0) Check that the plug leads are going to the right plugs. Easy mistake to make.

1) Check the timing. Find TDC, not by looking at the marks on the pulley, but by dialling in the top of no 1 piston though the plug hole. Mark up the pulley from the dialling check, then put the timing light on it. Check against spec. Don't worry too much about fast idle advance at this stage, you're looking for massive retardation at idle.

2) Compression test. Would pick up bad valves and leaking gaskets. If you have a leakdown tester available, that would be good also (similar principle, but better at pinpointing the problem)

Beyond that...well, I'd put a scope on the ignition and see what the heck was
going on - you'd easily see a flaky pick up on the screen. Might also be worth checking the carb for blockages.

each side of cylinders is seperate-two seperate systems. I know for sure it is a exaust backfire-can see the flash coming from exaust pipes. I took off air filter cover and watched, no intake flash.

I let the truck run for a little while today and then checked the plugs-they were darker than should be-running rich assumabley, so i'm gonna have the shop clean/adjust the carb. I'll also have them check the timeing, maybe try it first myself. Before i take the truck there i'm gonna see if they have a spare but good coil to toss on there and see if that makes a differance.

keep'm coming guys, thanks for the help
 
One thing about it, If it is a timing chain and you keep running it being that bad you'll know it very soon and it will be expensive. On the "A" motor the valves and pistons will have a good time when it go's.
 
nope dont plan on running it other than long enough for "diagnosing"

never heard of the "A" motor...what is it? variation of the 318?
 
nope dont plan on running it other than long enough for "diagnosing"

never heard of the "A" motor...what is it? variation of the 318?

All Chrysler small blocks are called LA or A engines 273, 318, 340, or 360. The 361, 383, 413, and 400 (maybe 426 wedge) are B engines. The 440 is designated as a RB engine. This applies to earlier engines say up until 95 or so, not sure what the new OHC V-8 or hemi is called.
 
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Keep in mind just because you replaced new parts doesnt mean they arent bad. I would definitly check cap, rotor, wires. I agree w/time issues. get a pair of insulater plug wire pliers and pull each individual wire off from cap, should miss if you pull one and if nothing changes theres your answer.
 
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