OWB Water temps

[blackdogon57]

I don't need a lot of science, todays stoves are far more efficient with much cooler exhaust temps, my Optimizer 250 has an exhaust temp of 270 degrees running full speed with a water temp of 190 degrees, you can actually see the moisture develop in the heat exchanger tubes at below about 230 degrees with higher moisture content fuel, the old smoke dragons run an exhaust temp of over 1000 degrees. can you see the difference, you can get away with more in the old tecnology but it will cost you more in wood consumption, bottom line, the manufacturers should and in most cases do know thier units best, you would do well to take thier advice.

Ok so your talking wood gasification boiler. I can see how that might make a difference. I personally like my old "smoke dragon" ( cb 6048) because it is very simple technology. I also know that if I'm running something big like my pool heater the water is going back to the boiler less than 140 and I don't see how it will condensate and wreck my system. I will ask my CB guy nex t time I talk to him.

 

[showrguy]

Ok so your talking wood gasification boiler. I can see how that might make a difference. I personally like my old "smoke dragon" ( cb 6048) because it is very simple technology. I also know that if I'm running something big like my pool heater the water is going back to the boiler less than 140 and I don't see how it will condensate and wreck my system. I will ask my CB guy nex t time I talk to him.

yea,
what he said !!!

 

[NSMaple1]

Ok so your talking wood gasification boiler. I can see how that might make a difference. I personally like my old "smoke dragon" ( cb 6048) because it is very simple technology. I also know that if I'm running something big like my pool heater the water is going back to the boiler less than 140 and I don't see how it will condensate and wreck my system. I will ask my CB guy nex t time I talk to him.

Ask him what the purpose is of the 'thermostatic valve' between the supply & return lines that is shown in various install diagrams on pages 12-15 of the 6048 brochure.

 

[blackdogon57]

Thanks I'll do that. CB did my entire install. Maybe i do have this mixing valve and don't even know it. All I know is that if I touch the return line on my 240,000 BTU pool heater its cold to touch with 185 degree water on the supply side.

 

[Guswhit]

sorry, but i really don't agree with you on this..
my mahoning 400 only burns in the heating season, but, it is set @ 185-190 when temps are/average below 30 F.(now)... it supplies a 125 gal. nurse tank in the basement that is set at 140 this time of year...
so my return temp has NEVER been above 140 deg, i'm heating about a 5600 sq. ft. house, and another 1800 sq. ft. garage (when i turn it on)..
the house was built with radiant heat in mind, so it's all radiant floor heat, including garage slab, and basement slab (basement has'nt been on since i built the house)..
i'm now on my 12th heating season with no major issues........ i figure the owb paid for itself by the second season..

i dunno what your talking about when you say "condensation" will bring an early death to my owb ???
mine is an open system btw..

Just a quickie question here. I am just going to ask and not trying to start an argument or offend. Don't nurse tanks generally have an some sort of mixing valve on them so they don't get any hotter than what you set it for, thus the tank itself is not really an open system with the wood boiler? I just find it extremely hard to believe that you are loosing over 45 degrees of heat in your loop. I don't know anything about this type of stove but the central boilers I am familiar with, when loosing only 30 degrees in a loop, do to improper installation, do not recover and stay in full burn mode almost always.

 

[showrguy]

Just a quickie question here. I am just going to ask and not trying to start an argument or offend. Don't nurse tanks generally have an some sort of mixing valve on them so they don't get any hotter than what you set it for, thus the tank itself is not really an open system with the wood boiler? I just find it extremely hard to believe that you are loosing over 45 degrees of heat in your loop. I don't know anything about this type of stove but the central boilers I am familiar with, when loosing only 30 degrees in a loop, do to improper installation, do not recover and stay in full burn mode almost always.

well, you no good mother f................
kidding, here's my setup..
outdoor burner is set at 185-190 right now, it supplies a 125 gal. nurse tank in the basement that is set at 140 right now..
so when my aquastat on the nurse tank drops to 137 deg.(i can change that f i want) it kicks on a pair of taco 009's, one pushing, one pulling 185-190 deg water from the outdoor unit (OWB) until the temp of the nurse tank comes back to my set point of 140........then the nurse tank is happy and the 009's shut down until they're called into action again....
depending on how much draw is coming from how many zones at the same time that nurse tank might drop all the way to 125-128 deg. sending that water to the owb to be reheated...
at the same time this is all happening in the nurse tank in the house, the owb is just sitting out there waiting for it's aquastat to drop a couple of degrees to tell the owb it's time to kick on the draft and join in on the heating party we all got going on here.......................get it ??
my owb is open to atmosphere so it's not pressurized in any way..
total system is holding about 800 gal.
it's really quitesimple, and no, there are no mixing valves on my setup anywhere,,,,,the mixing occurs when my 125ish water gets back the the 185ish owb and is emediately mixed inside the water jacket...
man, i suck at typing...

 

[Guswhit]

well, you no good mother f................
kidding, here's my setup..
outdoor burner is set at 185-190 right now, it supplies a 125 gal. nurse tank in the basement that is set at 140 right now..
so when my aquastat on the nurse tank drops to 137 deg.(i can change that f i want) it kicks on a pair of taco 009's, one pushing, one pulling 185-190 deg water from the outdoor unit (OWB) until the temp of the nurse tank comes back to my set point of 140........then the nurse tank is happy and the 009's shut down until they're called into action again....
depending on how much draw is coming from how many zones at the same time that nurse tank might drop all the way to 125-128 deg. sending that water to the owb to be reheated...
at the same time this is all happening in the nurse tank in the house, the owb is just sitting out there waiting for it's aquastat to drop a couple of degrees to tell the owb it's time to kick on the draft and join in on the heating party we all got going on here.......................get it ??
my owb is open to atmosphere so it's not pressurized in any way..
total system is holding about 800 gal.
it's really quitesimple, and no, there are no mixing valves on my setup anywhere,,,,,the mixing occurs when my 125ish water gets back the the 185ish owb and is emediately mixed inside the water jacket...
man, i suck at typing...

Got it. However, you are only raising the 125 gal tank back up for a short cycle time while the owb can fire hot burning off Condensation
With the water/heat/gal on transfer of 2 pumps exchanging a 125 gal on tank it can't take long to raise to set limit and shut off
I was thinking you had a setup that was constantly running and pumping 140 degree or less temps back which is not good