Paint on case - touchups / durability / heat - need advice

[hillbillypolack]

Last weekend, I finally picked up a decent Husky saw. It has a few areas with bare metal on the case (magnesium), which I'd like to dab a little (???) for preventative measure.

I know saws are more or less 'tools' so it's more to prevent more paint lifting and keep the magnesium protected. One area is right under the muffler mount, tiny chip. If it were on a plastic part, no big deal.

I have seen all kinds of things used, from a dab of silicone, to 2 part epoxy to auto paint. What works, and what will last?

 

[happysaws]

Not sure about spot treatment, but if you're going to repaint an entire magnesium cover, self-etching primer is a must.

 

[SS Sniper]

When I blast parts, I use a self-etching first, then a sealer, then a top coat. For top coats, Single Stage Urethane is pretty easy to work with and is plenty durable once it completely hardens. Not really a cheap paint but we're not talking a gallon here.

For scrapes on a magnesium case, I wouldn't worry about it at all, but if you're set on "fixing" the issue, then I'd just see what putting the paint on with a little brush would do. I assume we aren't talking about a huge area here. Make sure it's free of dust/oil residue first.

Putting the etching primer first would be a good idea depending on how much time/effort you want to put in.

 

[blsnelling]

The only reason to do this on a work saw is for cosmetic reasons.

 

[hillbillypolack]

The only reason to do this on a work saw is for cosmetic reasons.

I agree. Though I’m less familiar with magnesium cases. I think I’m just looking to prevent any dreaded rot or oxidation – but is that a concern for dings & chips on the outside of a saw?

Reason I ask, I’m familiar with magnesium wheels, and the occasional oxidation that comes with them when the paint isn’t maintained. Or is that a different concern?

 

[hillbillypolack]

When I blast parts, I use a self-etching first, then a sealer, then a top coat. For top coats, Single Stage Urethane is pretty easy to work with and is plenty durable once it completely hardens. Not really a cheap paint but we're not talking a gallon here.

For scrapes on a magnesium case, I wouldn't worry about it at all, but if you're set on "fixing" the issue, then I'd just see what putting the paint on with a little brush would do. I assume we aren't talking about a huge area here. Make sure it's free of dust/oil residue first.

Putting the etching primer first would be a good idea depending on how much time/effort you want to put in.

The saw I got was basically new, just a ding here and there, which I guess could be touched up with a dab of sturdy urethane. I suppose it’ll get a few extra marks during use anyway.

But that brings me to another question – no new saw I’ve ever seen has had 100% perfect cases. There’s always a pinhole, a ragged casting edge that’s not cosmetically great, or a scuff at an edge of the casting. How ‘perfect’ should a new saw be – at least with paint on the cases?

I know, it’s cosmetic, but it also helps prolong the life of the saw. .

 

[SS Sniper]

Not sure if I prolongs the life of the saw to any degree that is worth worrying about honestly but I can see why you want it touched up. Nothing wrong with that.

I agree with what you said regarding not being perfect from the factory. None of mine have been 100% perfect but I couldn't care less, and that's coming from someone who's saws still look damn near new despite some substantial use for firewood and jobs.​