Picked up my "new" wood stove!

[Bushmans]

Finally pulled the trigger and picked up a wood stove to replace my pre-fab fireplace.
It is in great shape and I don't think it was even used much.

Going to set it in front of the old fireplace. It has a blower, which you can see on the shelf behind.

I will be installing a stove pipe up from the top of the stove about 30" or so and then it will make a 90 degree turn and head through the wall and tie into the existing triple wall chimney with a Tee.

The stove has an 8" port but I will be reducing it because it will eventually be running through the chimney via a 6" liner. My question is where should I put the reducer?
Right on top of the stove?
After the first elbow 30 "above the stove?
Or at the wall where the stove pipe will switch to a selkirk insulated pipe going through the thimble and connecting to the Tee.

View attachment 309595

I can't wait to have real heat. So tired of feeding that fireplace to alleviate the propane bill.

Cheers,
-Bushman

 

[RiverRocket]

Nice looking stove...Looks heavy..

 

[olyman]

is the center pipe of the triple wall 6, or 8 inch??

 

[stihly dan]

If that has an 8 outlet, you need to stay at 8. It' the economical stoves that need 6. Not the smoke dragons. That is a nice looking stove, enjoy the heat.

 

[Bushmans]

is the center pipe of the triple wall 6, or 8 inch??

Center pipe is 8"

 

[Bushmans]

Reducing it will likely result in smoking up the house when loading. Not a very efficient stove and not legal to sell here in the states for almost 25 years now.

I'm sure it's way more efficient than the fireplace!

Of course it's illegal. The government needs to control everything!

Maybe I'll run a 7" liner instead of a 6"

 

[Bushmans]

Have you been heating your house with a fireplace?

As much as I can. Obviously I can't keep a fire going when I'm away from home but when I get home it's always, light the fire, feed the fire. I light at least 10 fires a week. Every afternoon at 4:30 when I get home from work and it burns till about 10pm when I go to bed. In the morning I don't light at all because I am leaving the house. On weekends I burn a fire starting at 5-6 am until bed time. If I go somewhere I have to wait for it to die down and then close the doors, leave and when I return light again. I'm so tired of it but with college bound children and a new mortgage every bit helps. This new stove was acquired with a labor trade and I sold wood bundles all summer to help offset the cost of installing it. I have $300 tucked away.

I still use an entire tank of propane every year but the fire helps.

I don't rely 100% on wood heat but this should help substantially.

 

[Encore]

You'll love that much more than heating with the fireplace.

I'd try and stick with 8" but you will really enjoy getting a taste of wood stoves vs the fireplace.

 

[Bushmans]

I've been studying a little bit. If I stick with the 8" flue maybe I could connect directly to the existing center pipe of the triple wall chimney and then insulate between the center pipe and the second pipe with vermiculite. It is an outdoor chimney chase, with most of it being in the garage, so it might not heat up enough to pull adequate draft. The center pipe is already stainless steel and in great shape.

I would save a ton of money by not purchasing a liner.

What is the optimal temps for a flue?
If I connected directly to the center pipe would it keep the flue hot enough to draft properly and reduce creosote?
Would it get too hot?
If I insulated between the pipes would it be even better?
Would the insulation help with dissipating the heat from a chimney fire if there ever was one?

I am a nervous freak when it comes to flue clean out. I clean mine several times a heating season just to be safe. It only takes a few minutes. The most I ever got out of it after the initial clean when I moved in was a cup or two.

The more I read the more questions I have.

It never was a draft machine when the fireplace was in and you could always tell when the fireplace was running low on wood because the house would start smelling like smoke.
I imagine that was from the flue cooling down and losing draft.

Any other thoughts?

 

[Streblerm]

Check the UL listing on your existing pipe

I replaced a prefab fireplace with a wood stove. The pre fab fireplace used the outer section of the triple wall pipe to bring in combustion air. I think this also cooled the pipe. After some research I determined that the existing pipe was only meant to be used with the prefab fireplace. It was designed and built as a single unit and the UL listing was not for any other sealed, solid fuel burning appliance.

I replaced the existing pipe with double wall insulated pipe rated UL-103HT. It wasn't cheap at around $35 per foot but at least I know I have the proper venting for my stove.

 

[Bushmans]

Thanks Del,
I suppose it wouldn't hurt to install the stove and connect connect directly to the center pipe.

Burn the stove and check temps and drafts and what not.
The set up from the stove, thru the wall and to the tee is going to be pretty much the same regardless. It is the chimney/flue that I have the concerns about.

Being an air cooled chimney the air space between the inner and secondary pipe will be wide open after my install. The air (between the pipes) that is heated by the primary flue pipe will have free access to flow upward and out of the top of the chimney. It will continually suck cold air from the garage keeping the inner pipe cool.

This is my thought process.

I guess I will just have to test it and see if it keeps it too cool. I don't want back draft and a smelly house and I also don't want excess creosote build up from a cool flue.

Ahh the joys of new adventures!

 

[jdlbz]

Them old stoves put out a lot more heat than the new crap. And atleast you wont have that joke pipe crap that the gov. Wants.

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[Bushmans]

Well I went and put new tires on my truck today and while I was waiting for that I walked to the big box store and they have 8" double wall insulated stainless chimney pipe on sale st $79 for a 3 foot section. (Regularly $102) I need 6 sections to replace the existing prefab chimney.

Here is the specs I copied from website.

8" x 36" Length Stainless Steel Chimney Pipe
Double Wall Pipe
tested to 2100F - UL-103 Standard-Meets all UL Requirements
Special Augured Mineral Wood Insulation filling the space between stainless steel walls is only one inch thick.
17 times the insulating value of brick
430 Outer/304 Inner
Only Two Inch Clearance to Combustibles
All residential fuels, gas, liquid, solid. UL103
Limited Lifetime Warranty
"Outside diameter" of chimney pipe is 10"

I will be purchasing these tomorrow. It will be a great peace of mind knowing that I have the proper chimney in place and it should work better than the air cooled trip wall I have now.

I won't be able to install it completely because it is gonna take a few more weeks to save up the cash for the insulated tee ($100) and the wall thimble ($50) plus the regular black pipe and damper and misc things.

Next question is how far up should I go off the stove before turning into the wall?

I was thinking roughly 30" as the stove sits about 30" off the floor.
Also how many supports should I install. In the garage I have access to the first 8-10 feet or so but after that I have to climb up on garage and remove the siding and sheeting to access the chimney chase.

Can I just put one at the bottom and one as high up in the garage as I can reach and then just secure the top from the very top of the chimney?

I'm pretty excited to start this. I will be able to have the entire chimney replaced now while the weather is still warm.

 

[Bushmans]

Started cleaning and painting the stove yesterday. She is looking good. I can't believe how clean it is. I don't think it was hardly ever used. The labels on the base are still like brand new.

I have to do the doors today. I'm going to wire wheel the handles and the air control knobs to make them shiny again. So far so good.

View attachment 309843

 

[EXCALIBER]

If that has an 8 outlet, you need to stay at 8. It' the economical stoves that need 6. Not the smoke dragons. That is a nice looking stove, enjoy the heat.

I would have to disagree with this statement altogether. My Blaze King King Ultra has an 8 inch pipe and it is the most efficient stove made. Their Princess stove with a 6 inch pipe is second in efficiency. So size has nothing to do with efficiency when it come to stove pipe. Now this is an older stove and yes it will not be as efficient as the new ones, it will cost less, but require more wood.

 

[Encore]

You'll be glad you did all this in the warm weather. I never understand why some guys wait to install their stoves or furnaces when it's cold out lol.

I say that and the first year I burned wood, I didn't get the stove installed until Thanksgiving haha. Wasn't by choice however.

 

[Bushmans]

Tah Dah!
Finished paint job.

Picking up the chimney system on Friday. Made a heck of a deal with a guy at work on some brand new double wall insulated 8" pipe. 7 pieces of 36" and the insulated tee all for $500. Retail would be around a thousand. Happy, happy, happy!

View attachment 310121

 

[jdlbz]

Tah Dah!
Finished paint job.

Picking up the chimney system on Friday. Made a heck of a deal with a guy at work on some brand new double wall insulated 8" pipe. 7 pieces of 36" and the insulated tee all for $500. Retail would be around a thousand. Happy, happy, happy!

View attachment 310121

You will love it and you did sn awesome job

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[reaperman]

You may want to start a fire in your stove outside before bringing it into your home. It helps in burning off some of the new paint odor you may not want in your home. Otherwise it looks like a real heating machine. It reminds me of one I had in the past that (over)heated my home for years. Which I also considered to be easy on my woodpile, and easier to regulate than some epa stoves I have used.