Pin oak innjection data.

[fastline]

I have two Pin Oaks I am working with, both chlorotic due to high soil PH. My tree is a 50yr old, approx 18" caliper tree. The other tree is my fathers, is approx 10-15yrs old, but only approx 15-20ft tall and 10" caliper. My fathers is the one we are about to remove but I would like to try injection to see if we can nurse it to health and build a long term plan to keep it. If nothing else, use as a test tree for injection.

I would like to learn how and what to inject. It was my understanding that you only need to get into the Cambium layer which would be maybe less than 1/2" deep. It looks like a nice gravity feed can work just as well or better than forced injection? I also really need to know how much and what to inject. I realize Iron is what we are after but maybe a blend of minerals to boost the tree?

My soils test on this site from 10yrs ago was at 7.8 PH!! I have applied a few Sulfur apps as well as other general practices and fert apps to reduce PH. I would assume it to be in the high 6s right now.

 

[Raintree]

Please hire an Arborist & give your trees proper treatments. This is like me going on the interwebs seeking advice on how to cut a tumor out of my liver.

 

[fastline]

Ferrous sulfate and Ferrous citrate seem to be the most common among Iron specific injections for Pin Oaks. I did determine that injecting slightly beyond the Cambium layer will be most beneficial.

Thanks

 

[ATH]

injections are a temporary fix...keep working to fix the soil and you might not have to inject the trees.

Did your soil test show adequate iron? (I haven't seen one yet that didn't...but you are in a different area.)

Besides just adding the sulfur, you might also try to aereate the soil (or better yet hire somebody with an AirKnife or AirSpade), and amend with organic material.

If you are stuck on injecting the tree, a lower investment option for just a couple of trees would be the Mauget system.

 

[TheJollyLogger]

I have two Pin Oaks I am working with, both chlorotic due to high soil PH. My tree is a 50yr old, approx 18" caliper tree. The other tree is my fathers, is approx 10-15yrs old, but only approx 15-20ft tall and 10" caliper. My fathers is the one we are about to remove but I would like to try injection to see if we can nurse it to health and build a long term plan to keep it. If nothing else, use as a test tree for injection.

I would like to learn how and what to inject. It was my understanding that you only need to get into the Cambium layer which would be maybe less than 1/2" deep. It looks like a nice gravity feed can work just as well or better than forced injection? I also really need to know how much and what to inject. I realize Iron is what we are after but maybe a blend of minerals to boost the tree?

My soils test on this site from 10yrs ago was at 7.8 PH!! I have applied a few Sulfur apps as well as other general practices and fert apps to reduce PH. I would assume it to be in the high 6s right now.

You're assuming a PH level based on a 10 yrold measurement. And injections are the only solution you're considering? Seems like a fairly drastic treatment based on a lot of assumptions.

 

[Ed Roland]

Please hire an Arborist & give your trees proper treatments. This is like me going on the interwebs seeking advice on how to cut a tumor out of my liver.

Star death and fusion ash... The visual dichotomous assessment keys are nonsense and based on myth. (Coder) Deficiency of one element causes chlorosis. Abundance of the very same element can also cause chlorosis. Fertility management will always be the bane of tree health care, professional or no.

I would skip wounding the tree with an injection and treat the causal issue. A soils potential hydrogen value can be altered in most cases. Mulch is natures slow release fertilizer.

 

[fastline]

site has been received tri-annual fert apps of 35-5-10 with 2% Iron for the last 8yrs or so. I am guessing on the soil PH but have a fair background in agriculture to make that prediction.

We all know the soil PH cannot be adjusted easily or timely. In that time, the tree may go down hill quickly. It is important to at least get the tree to health while I take steps such as soil sample to assess the next step.

The soil is sandy loam so compaction is really not a concern in the area. There are also 3 mulch beds in the area. The tree is receiving water and fert. All other trees are in perfect health and flourishing. The Fe jolt might not be the long term solution but if it works, at least it tells me more of what is going on. If Fe works, we can work towards a soil amendment or PH adjustment that can make it happy.

All I need to determine is aqueous solution concentration and target injected Fe. So far, I have seen everything from a 1.5-10% solution being used but very little data on how much actual Fe to be used per inch of caliper.

Thanks for the advice. I never shortcut things like this and looking to do it by the numbers.

 

[ATH]

.....The Fe jolt might not be the long term solution but if it works, at least it tells me more of what is going on.....

......Thanks for the advice. I never shortcut things like this and looking to do it by the numbers.

You shouldn't be drilling in the tree to make guesses just to find out "what is going on".

Send a foliar sample to a good lab. That combined with a new soil test will tell what is going on...no holes drilled in the trunk.

 

[TheJollyLogger]

To me, doing it by the numbers means assessment and diagnosis before treatment, not the other way around.
If I told oneoof my customers I was going to inject their tree to find out what was going on, and then check soil ph, I don't think most of them would be too happy.

 

[bepperb]

I'm not an arborist.

But are you trying to develop a diy version of this:?

https://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?category_id=26&item=369


I stumbled across that in my search for EAB solutions last year, but agree with the people here (more knowledgeable than myself) that holes in tree's aren't the best thing especially for a beginner, and went with a soil drench instead. Like you my situation is a hostile environment for a tree I won't pay an arborist to treat as I'd rather cut it and plant a new more appropriate one vs paying every two years into eternity for treatment with no guarantee. But I think for the price you'd be better off with a 20 dollar soil test and "fixing" the soil. I'd be surprised if you could lower the PH one point with a few apps of anything that didn't burn everything it touched.