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pioneerguy600 said:
The problem with getting an old saw is the primer will most likely be fubared and the yellow plastic push buttons for the primer are usually broke off as well. NOS ones are very hard to find but I did find some years back when I restored my 450 and NU 17 but have not found any since.
Click to expand...

I didn't know what parts he was looking for. Yep, primers would be hard to find. I replace many bulbs on saws only a couple years old.
 
farmsaw refresh

Hi All, sorry in advance for the long post. I've searched AS and replies seem to indicate to ask your farmsaw questions in the Pioneer sticky. So, here goes.
I have two farmsaws. One with no chain brake (I'll label this one as saw "A") and one with a chain brake (saw "B"). I'm going to build one saw for a good friends FIL for a Christmas present. One of the saws I have is his original purchase that has piston/cyl damage and came to me in a box disassembled. The other is a recent CL pickup that appears to be in good condition but has no spark. I'm on my way to the shop shortly to do more exploration. It's fun to dig into a different saw. Even more so to know it will put a smile on someone's face for a long time.

saw A has two thin rings on the piston. Saw B has on thick ring. Is this normal or likely a replacement in saw B?

Best place for parts? Ebay has some but I'd like new AV mounts if possible.

Also would like to replace crank seals. Anything tricky about this process?

Reed block on both saws is cracked. Is there a fix for this or only a replacement?

Can I do a regular pressure/vac test on these crank cases? No hidden oiler hole for clutch bearing or something of that sort?
 
half_full said:
Hi All, sorry in advance for the long post. I've searched AS and replies seem to indicate to ask your farmsaw questions in the Pioneer sticky. So, here goes.
I have two farmsaws. One with no chain brake (I'll label this one as saw "A") and one with a chain brake (saw "B"). I'm going to build one saw for a good friends FIL for a Christmas present. One of the saws I have is his original purchase that has piston/cyl damage and came to me in a box disassembled. The other is a recent CL pickup that appears to be in good condition but has no spark. I'm on my way to the shop shortly to do more exploration. It's fun to dig into a different saw. Even more so to know it will put a smile on someone's face for a long time.

saw A has two thin rings on the piston. Saw B has on thick ring. Is this normal or likely a replacement in saw B?

Best place for parts? Ebay has some but I'd like new AV mounts if possible.

Also would like to replace crank seals. Anything tricky about this process?

Reed block on both saws is cracked. Is there a fix for this or only a replacement?

Can I do a regular pressure/vac test on these crank cases? No hidden oiler hole for clutch bearing or something of that sort?
Click to expand...

saw A has two thin rings on the piston. Saw B has on thick ring. Is this normal or likely a replacement in saw B? I believe the Farmsaw came both ways. The P41/42 (same bore) used the 2 thin rings and only the Farmsaw came with the one thick. I have seen them on ebay both styles advertised as Farmsaw. I'm not 100% sure if some people used P41 pistons as replacements or they came both ways.

Best place for parts? Ebay has some but I'd like new AV mounts if possible. I have good used ones.

Also would like to replace crank seals. Anything tricky about this process? Nope, one of the easier saws to replace seals.

Reed block on both saws is cracked. Is there a fix for this or only a replacement? Probably cracked by the mount hole. I've had saws run perfectly with that hair-line crack in the cage. I believe I have good used ones if you go that route.

Can I do a regular pressure/vac test on these crank cases? No hidden oiler hole for clutch bearing or something of that sort? I remove the carb and muffler. I made aluminum blocking plates to cover the openings. I test through the plug hole. All the P40, 50 and 60 series saws are famous for leaking between the case and reed cage... I think just about everyone I've tested had a leak there. Minor to massive leaks. Even with a new gasket, I always use a sealer on both sides of the cage gasket.
 
Thanks for the reply Ed!
A few more questions if I may.

to order crank seals, is there a recommended place?

Saw B has a walbro carb. Saw A has a Tillotson. Since I plan on a rebuild kit is one better than the other?

My end goal here is to hand off a saw that has everything replaced/refreshed that typical maintenance would have covered.

Planning on:
carb kit
crank seals
required gaskets
fuel line/filter
spur sprocket

The intake filter on both saws looks very good.
Am I missing anything? I'm only focused on mechanical. The battle scars were introduced by the original owner and I feel I should leave them as is.
 
I have always found that the cylinders with the automatic decomps would leak when doing a vac test on them, they don`t leak bad in that it would cause any concern for running the saw but with a vac gauge hooked up to the cylinder they loose vac through the decom.
 
??? color match yellow/green of Pioneer 600

Hi guys...Got my first Pioneer a 600. I've wanted one for a long time as I think they and the RA are some of the neatest looking saws, old or new.

My question is has someone figured out a very good match for the original yellow/green background color and the green highlight color? My saw is in "hardly used" condition and I haven't tried to start it yet but do need to repaint the chain cover.

Any paint you can recommend - whether spray can or custom mixed, will be appreciated.

Here is a pic of the saw with 50 years of barn grit on it.

attachment.php


View attachment 264138
 
Pioneer PN crankshaft seal PN 428746 easily had alternate

Something to keep mind when looking for these seals.

Some info from a Poulan dealer,

The Poulan 405, 455, 525 and 655 use the same seals. These are still current seals for Poulan.

The Poulan PN is 507428746
 
pioneerguy600 said:
I have always found that the cylinders with the automatic decomps would leak when doing a vac test on them, they don`t leak bad in that it would cause any concern for running the saw but with a vac gauge hooked up to the cylinder they loose vac through the decom.
Click to expand...

Thanks! that makes sense. The decomp has a spring in it but that certainly wouldn't hold off much vac.
 
??? color match yellow/green of Pioneer 600

7oaks said:
Hi guys...Got my first Pioneer a 600. I've wanted one for a long time as I think they and the RA are some of the neatest looking saws, old or new.

My question is has someone figured out a very good match for the original yellow/green background color and the green highlight color? My saw is in "hardly used" condition and I haven't tried to start it yet but do need to repaint the chain cover.

Any paint you can recommend - whether spray can or custom mixed, will be appreciated.
Click to expand...

Come on guys - someone out there has recommendations for a color match?
 
Carl, I think your best bet is to take a piece into an automotive paint supply store and have them match it. There is an auto paint store near me that can actually put a urethane in a rattle can. There is a button on the bottom of the can you press in and it releases the catalyst. Shake like heck. You have about 24 hrs. to use the can.

Urethane paint is the best for saws in my opinion.
 
Arrowhead said:
Carl, I think your best bet is to take a piece into an automotive paint supply store and have them match it. There is an auto paint store near me that can actually put a urethane in a rattle can. There is a button on the bottom of the can you press in and it releases the catalyst. Shake like heck. You have about 24 hrs. to use the can.

Urethane paint is the best for saws in my opinion.
Click to expand...

Thanks...Heading to town now and will take the top with me to match if possible. Out here in the boonies of WV I'm not likely to find a auto paint store that fills rattle cans but maybe something else. Appreciate the answer and maybe it'll help some others with the same question.
 
7oaks said:
You're right they are some darn nice looking saws but I'll say I still like the 600 series best. After cleaning mine so that I can see the tag I see it is a 610 - wonder what the difference is?
Click to expand...

I will tell what I can see in the difference between the 600 and the 610. The starter recoils on the 600 were not strongly enough built to withstand the rigors of starting these saws so Pioneer opted to retrofit the the 600 with a Fairbanks Morse recoil, the 610 came factory with the Fairbanks recoil. The top cover on the 610 has the tree outlined in dark green, on the 600 the tree is solid dark green. The 600 and the 610 shared all the rest of the parts common to these two saws, even the carb stayed as the HL22A and the air filter ,of the Purolater type stayed until the 620 came out.
 
hey guys,

just curious on what a P42hp is worth these days? I know the are only 65cc's but just wondering... Might have found one at the honey hole/hot spot... :wink:
 
pioneerguy600 said:
I will tell what I can see in the difference between the 600 and the 610. The starter recoils on the 600 were not strongly enough built to withstand the rigors of starting these saws so Pioneer opted to retrofit the the 600 with a Fairbanks Morse recoil, the 610 came factory with the Fairbanks recoil. The top cover on the 610 has the tree outlined in dark green, on the 600 the tree is solid dark green. The 600 and the 610 shared all the rest of the parts common to these two saws, even the carb stayed as the HL22A and the air filter ,of the Purolater type stayed until the 620 came out.
Click to expand...

Thanks Jerry...That's exactly what I'm seeing as far as the differences between the 600 & 610.

Now you, if anybody, must have a suggestion for a color match for the yellow/green base color? I have found that RustOleum Forest Green matches the green nearly perfectly. I'm not repainting the entire saw, just the chain/clutch cover because I messed it up cleaning it up. :^(

Also, any suggestions on where to get a gas line and filter for the 610. I also need the short gas line from sediment bowl to carb. And, of course, a rebuild kit for the Hl22A carb. Any guidance will be greatly appreciated. I'm out in the boonies and have limited internet access to search and no town close to shop around it.

Cheers...Carl

Sorry Jerry - I just saw your answer to the paint question in the other thread. Thanks!
 
Last edited:
Ws hoping that some of you that have been around these saws for a while could help. Just got my saw back from the saw shop and it runs like a raped ape. Still dont know what model it is. The saw shop could only tell me it was a 4ci displacement. No model nuber markings or tag on saw. Does anybody know a trick to tracking down this info. Had some people tell me to look inside the clutch cover for model and nothing there either. I am really excited about this saw and how well it runs, but it would be great to know what it is..... I feel like an idiot (ican admit that), but I think this is the place to ask. Thank you for the help!!!



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