Pioneer chainsaws

[rocketnorton]

RPO L36.......regular production option 390hp 427 turbojet...........ya da, ya da, ya da............................

Interesting note: Twenty 1967 RPO L88's rolled off the assembly line. There must be hundreds out there by now. LOL

yep, ya can build a "60's Camaro", not a gm part in sight...

 

[rocketnorton]

lookin for... nu17 start/pulley cover & primer button. $/trade. have ra manual available...

 

[Wagnerwerks]

I still have the rest of the stuff we chatted about and I have lots of nu17 parts.

 

[rocketnorton]

I still have the rest of the stuff we chatted about and I have lots of nu17 parts.

I still want that stuff, just need price... you got a line on p61 rings? pioneerguy's gonna help w/nu17... thx. p.

 

[Wagnerwerks]

Are p60-62 rings the same?

 

[nstueve]

You'd have to ask Ed (arrowhead).

 

[rocketnorton]

im not 100% sure...

 

[hillwilliam]

Just because nobody has posted anything in the Pioneer section for a while:

A little deceptive in the photo, but this stump was 36" across - too dang big for firewood.

 

[fossil]

I would say you're sitting on a good saw to noodle that up.

 

[paul hill]

Looking for some Pioneer advice.

I'm starting to do some work on some Pioneer saws I have and might tackle rebuilding one too. I have a P-60, P-51F, and a P-41.

On the P-51, the saw runs fairly well but seems to be inconsistent in the idle speed. I'm going to put a carb kit in it but also noticed a hairline crack in the reed block. I'm guessing this could bethe cause of some of the idle issues. Comments?

I'm going to replace all my fuel lines on all the saws too. What's on them is 3/32 ID 3/16 OD Tygon. Will this work for all of three saws?

Finally (for now), the decompression valve in the P-51 was plugged with a random bolt after a heli coil of another size was installed. My plan is to pull the cylinder and see if I can repair of with the correct size thread and install a new decomp valve. If this doesn't work, I'm looking at getting a new cylinder. I've found a couple for sale but want to make sure that all the 51 cylinders were the same and there were no varients over the
years.

Thanks for any input and advice. My goal is to get all three saws in the best condition possible and gather some more spare parts to keep them running for many more years.

 

[hillwilliam]

I would say you're sitting on a good saw to noodle that up.

Yup, that's 'zackly what I had to do for some of that tree.

 

[hillwilliam]

Looking for some Pioneer advice.

I'm starting to do some work on some Pioneer saws I have and might tackle rebuilding one too. I have a P-60, P-51F, and a P-41.

On the P-51, the saw runs fairly well but seems to be inconsistent in the idle speed. I'm going to put a carb kit in it but also noticed a hairline crack in the reed block. I'm guessing this could bethe cause of some of the idle issues. Comments?

I'm going to replace all my fuel lines on all the saws too. What's on them is 3/32 ID 3/16 OD Tygon. Will this work for all of three saws?

Finally (for now), the decompression valve in the P-51 was plugged with a random bolt after a heli coil of another size was installed. My plan is to pull the cylinder and see if I can repair of with the correct size thread and install a new decomp valve. If this doesn't work, I'm looking at getting a new cylinder. I've found a couple for sale but want to make sure that all the 51 cylinders were the same and there were no varients over the
years.

Thanks for any input and advice. My goal is to get all three saws in the best condition possible and gather some more spare parts to keep them running for many more years.

I've had some favorable results gluing the reed block. I've been using sealant along with the gasket between the reed block and the case. It would be a good idea to vac test for air leaks, which nearly always have something to do with the reed block.

The same Tygon fuel line should work for all your saws, including the fuel lines inside the tanks.

I've plugged the decompression on all the Pioneers I've ever had. I hesitated to do that on the 655, but it's plugged now. If your P51 isn't a collectors' saw, and the plug doesn't leak, I'd just leave it.

As far as I know, all the P51 jugs are the same. My P51 became a P52 so that I could use the newer type of ignition. I do hope you have good luck with the ignitions on your saws and good luck finding parts. I may have a modified P51 jug, if you need it.

Some guys with more experience may jump in with some good advice. Enjoy your good ol' Pioneers!

 

[fossil]

Looking for some Pioneer advice.

I'm starting to do some work on some Pioneer saws I have and might tackle rebuilding one too. I have a P-60, P-51F, and a P-41.

On the P-51, the saw runs fairly well but seems to be inconsistent in the idle speed. I'm going to put a carb kit in it but also noticed a hairline crack in the reed block. I'm guessing this could bethe cause of some of the idle issues. Comments?

I'm going to replace all my fuel lines on all the saws too. What's on them is 3/32 ID 3/16 OD Tygon. Will this work for all of three saws?

Finally (for now), the decompression valve in the P-51 was plugged with a random bolt after a heli coil of another size was installed. My plan is to pull the cylinder and see if I can repair of with the correct size thread and install a new decomp valve. If this doesn't work, I'm looking at getting a new cylinder. I've found a couple for sale but want to make sure that all the 51 cylinders were the same and there were no varients over the
years.

Thanks for any input and advice. My goal is to get all three saws in the best condition possible and gather some more spare parts to keep them running for many more years.

Same cylinder for the P51 H and F. The crack in the reed block could be the source of an air leak causing an erratic idle. It could also be due to the crank seals being shot. If you need crank seals, the Pioneer ones are no longer available so you would need to find the correct size to replace them. They are old so it's good insurance. If they are still available, Poulan PN 507428746 which are for the 455 - 655 series are the same seal. I was able to get them easily a year ago. I can't remember what size fuel line I used but if it fits that size will allow for enough fuel flow. I may have used 1/8" ID Tygon line.
I will put a link to the repair manual in your inbox in case you don't have one. It's a good manual.

 

[nnero]

Just got a P-61 today. I will post pics tomorrow ( I also have a thread on it started in the chainsaw forum as well). Im sure I will have questions and will begin looking through the pages on this thread. Thanks!

 

[paul hill]

I've had some favorable results gluing the reed block. I've been using sealant along with the gasket between the reed block and the case. It would be a good idea to vac test for air leaks, which nearly always have something to do with the reed block.

The same Tygon fuel line should work for all your saws, including the fuel lines inside the tanks.

I've plugged the decompression on all the Pioneers I've ever had. I hesitated to do that on the 655, but it's plugged now. If your P51 isn't a collectors' saw, and the plug doesn't leak, I'd just leave it.

As far as I know, all the P51 jugs are the same. My P51 became a P52 so that I could use the newer type of ignition. I do hope you have good luck with the ignitions on your saws and good luck finding parts. I may have a modified P51 jug, if you need it.

Some guys with more experience may jump in with some good advice. Enjoy your good ol' Pioneers!

Thank you for the info.

What do you glue the reed blocks together with? Anything special?

I have a new reed block ordered as of today but I'd like to repair the old one for a backup.

My concern on the decomp plug is leaking and more stress on the starter components. A vac test is definitely a good idea and I've been wanting to get a vac/pressure tester so this is a good excuse.
You mentioned converting to a P-52 cylinder as an option. Are the ignitions easier to get for the 52? I've got a couple spare ignition modules for all of the saws but they're all used so who knows how long they might last.

 

[paul hill]

Same cylinder for the P51 H and F. The crack in the reed block could be the source of an air leak causing an erratic idle. It could also be due to the crank seals being shot. If you need crank seals, the Pioneer ones are no longer available so you would need to find the correct size to replace them. They are old so it's good insurance. If they are still available, Poulan PN 507428746 which are for the 455 - 655 series are the same seal. I was able to get them easily a year ago. I can't remember what size fuel line I used but if it fits that size will allow for enough fuel flow. I may have used 1/8" ID Tygon line.
I will put a link to the repair manual in your inbox in case you don't have one. It's a good manual.

Fossil, thank you greatly for the manual. That will come in handy I'm sure.

Going to check the crank seals and glad to know the Poulan series was available recently. I saw some Pioneer bearings and seals on eBay but haven't checked the part numbers to see if they match. I'm going to get a set that works because like you memtioned, they're old and it couldn't hurt.

I'm sure I'll have more questions in the near future but thank you all for sharing your knowledge and experience.

 

[hillwilliam]

Thank you for the info.

What do you glue the reed blocks together with? Anything special?

I have a new reed block ordered as of today but I'd like to repair the old one for a backup.

My concern on the decomp plug is leaking and more stress on the starter components. A vac test is definitely a good idea and I've been wanting to get a vac/pressure tester so this is a good excuse.
You mentioned converting to a P-52 cylinder as an option. Are the ignitions easier to get for the 52? I've got a couple spare ignition modules for all of the saws but they're all used so who knows how long they might last.

Seems like I used some kind of epoxy on the reed blocks. Even a new one can have an air leak at the gasket where it fastens to the case.

You may be set with the ignitions you have now. They seem to be all but impossible to find. The newer ignitions are easier to find, and I happened to have one handy when I made the conversion.

A decompression valve is bound to leak a bit. The bolt that plugs yours may not leak at all or could be sealed. I never remember to use the decomp anyway, so I just eliminate them. Besides, at this altitude, there isn't much compression.

Somebody else may chime in to help with you questions.

 

[paul hill]

Seems like I used some kind of epoxy on the reed blocks. Even a new one can have an air leak at the gasket where it fastens to the case.

You may be set with the ignitions you have now. They seem to be all but impossible to find. The newer ignitions are easier to find, and I happened to have one handy when I made the conversion.

A decompression valve is bound to leak a bit. The bolt that plugs yours may not leak at all or could be sealed. I never remember to use the decomp anyway, so I just eliminate them. Besides, at this altitude, there isn't much compression.

Somebody else may chime in to help with you questions.

Thanks for the info on the reed blocks. I'll use some sealer on the gasket as well.

Yeah, the ignitions are very hard to find these days. I always keep an eye out for them but not many Pioneer saws around here to scavange for parts. There used to be a lot of the saws in northern Az but not many around any more.

 

[DSS]

1/8 x 1/4 tygon is what's on the big Pioneers. And yes, those reed blocks have a bad habit of cracking. I always put some sealer in there. I think a lot of it is over tightening the screws.

 

[paul hill]

1/8 x 1/4 tygon is what's on the big Pioneers. And yes, those reed blocks have a bad habit of cracking. I always put some sealer in there. I think a lot of it is over tightening the screws.

Thanks for the fuel line size.