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Pioneer chainsaws
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Nice saw. Check your inbox
workshop
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Carl, do you have an IPL for the 10-20? Or one close to it?
agreed on abt 24" on p41. heres mine. $50. needed a coil, got one at a very nice price from a member [haven't seen him on here for a while] here and another site.
Honest John
ArboristSite Operative
P41 finally got some attention today. The previous owner had told me the clutch spring broke the last time he used it, fortunately there was one available on ebay for fairly cheap. I replaced the spring and then checked compression, poured some mix in and it fired right up, first pull and ran like a bat out of hell. Winner, winner, chicken dinner !
Now, somewhere along the way I grew pretty fond of the lime green saws and purchased a beautiful Farmsaw 2 off the internet. It arrived today with only about sixty pounds of compression. My question is...Can I use a P & C from a Farmsaw 1 ? It would be nice to get the show pony running again.
Now, somewhere along the way I grew pretty fond of the lime green saws and purchased a beautiful Farmsaw 2 off the internet. It arrived today with only about sixty pounds of compression. My question is...Can I use a P & C from a Farmsaw 1 ? It would be nice to get the show pony running again.
I am quite sure the P& C would fit on and the crankshafts are the same but the Farmsaw has a automatic decomp that the Farmlite does not have, the decomp hole may just need to be plugged. They both use the same coils so mounting those should be no problem.
pioneerman
ArboristSite Operative
Cylinder is the same for both the Farmsaw and the Farmsaw II. Pistons are different in that the Farmsaw uses 2 rings, Farmsaw II usually is only one ring, but it should interchange with no problem. Both saws use a decompressor as the Farmsaw II is not the same as the farmlite. Farmlite is same displacement as a P38, 58cc vs. 66cc for the farmsaws.
Honest John
ArboristSite Operative
Thanks Pioneer guy. I plugged the decomp valve and was able to get a little more compression but not much. The good news is, The piston looks great from the exhaust passage...no scoring at all. I still need to check the coil, but I'm thinking it might be the rings. Never done those before...should be a good learning experience.
pioneerman
ArboristSite Operative
I wouldn't run the Farmsaws without the decompression valve. The recoils on those saws are weak, and you will end up destroying the recoil assembly.
Wagnerwerks
The underdog..
I have new farmsaw decomp valves in my pioneer stash. You don't want to be buying starters often. 
Honest John
ArboristSite Operative
The decomp valve appears to be functioning ok but I'll keep that in mind.
Any body know the story behind the P60 clutch shoes used on that model saw? the other steel metal clutch shoes are different clutch setup on previous models and on the P61.
Not really sure what your question is about. The P60 had a 3 shoe composite clutch with a garter spring in the grooves on the friction face of the clutch, the 61 had the same clutch but these saws can be converted over to a few different Pioneer clutch styles. Some of the big P series saws had 3 steel shoes with a garter spring that fit in a groove facing outwards.
Sorry for the confusion. What l meant to ask if their were any design flaws with the composite clutch shoes. lt only being availiable on the P60 and P61. which is the better performing clutch?
That clutch style was used on older Pioneers as well, they did the job intended for them. I have seen a few diff saws have one shoe out of 3 with a good portion of the friction surface chipped/ broken off and the saw still cut fine. I prefer to use the clutch from the P62 that is a steel 3 shoe setup, part# 475620. I have not seen a steel shoe clutch break in any way, the garter springs on both clutches will stretch with usage and over time, they need to be replaced when the shoes drag on the clutch drum at idle speeds and once in a while I have seen them break.
I agree with Jerry. I use the steel shoe for my wood cutting. I use the fiber shoe on my ported GTG saws. They have a lot less rotating mass and will make a quicker cut. Just not as durable as a steel shoe.
Depends. I have 62's with both style coils. It seem that's when they made the change. I have older yellow Pioneer P62's with the older P60 style coil. The newer Pioneer/Partner P62's have the same as the 655 coils.
I'm hoping to have time to finally start posting again. It's been many months. I started a new job at a saw shop. Plus I have a son that just got his drivers license (building a car) and a couple family members in bad health...
AS had to take a back burner for awhile.Good to see familiar names still posting.
Ed
Wagnerwerks
The underdog..
I have a paper copy of that ipl at home,but I'm not there right now. Pm me and remind me to take a pic and send it to you if you're interested.
Great to hear from you Ed, i will put in some prayers for your family members as well.I agree with Jerry. I use the steel shoe for my wood cutting. I use the fiber shoe on my ported GTG saws. They have a lot less rotating mass and will make a quicker cut. Just not as durable as a steel shoe.
Depends. I have 62's with both style coils. It seem that's when they made the change. I have older yellow Pioneer P62's with the older P60 style coil. The newer Pioneer/Partner P62's have the same as the 655 coils.
I'm hoping to have time to finally start posting again. It's been many months. I started a new job at a saw shop. Plus I have a son that just got his drivers license (building a car) and a couple family members in bad health...
Good to see familiar names still posting.
Ed
Have a Happy & safe Thanksgiving.
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