Pioneer chainsaws

[redunshee]

Perhaps you have already done this but to get proper position of the oiler p/u head engine nose down and tilted to the str side. Quite often the old original oil line softens up and kinks at the point were the nipple is attached on pump. replace the line if thats a problem . Note the length of the oil line should be 4-1/2".
Is the worm gear in good condition ?
Are you checking the oil flow with the proper Bar on the saw ?

Worm gear on pump and crank look fine. I've thought about replacing the pickup line but have yet to do that. No, I've been running saw w/o the bar and chain on. Didn't think that would effect oil flow. Figure as long as the gears were ok it should oil.

 

[Jasonrkba]

Oil hole could also be partially clogged.

 

[Jasonrkba]

FM-80 vs Farmsaw. What are the differences? Maybe clutch or chain brake?

Thanks. Jason

 

[xl130]

FM-80 vs Farmsaw. What are the differences? Maybe clutch or chain brake?

Thanks. Jason

I’m pretty sure they are exactly the same. Fm80 was the model on the tag for Farmsaw.
The chain break saws had a “s” for safety if I’m not mistaken.

 

[Lou]

@ xl130
You made me look.
My Farmsaw under "Model" says FM, under "Date" is an 80, it is possible, I purchased her in 1979 or 1980. My only requirements were no chain brake and a 20" bar.

I originally had a Skill 16" that I hated and I may have been at blame. The Skill saw was delivered at 4100 feet (Alamogordo NM) and I don't think I ever ran it there. I attempted to use it at 8100 feet (Cloudcroft NM area). Every outing was a struggle; 1. To get it running; 2. Refueling it; it boiled away almost an entire tank of fuel every time I refueled. I think I only tried using it twice, on two different outings. I gave it to the saw shop where I bought my Farmsaw. I came very close to tossing it over the edge of a very deep gorge while at Cloudcroft!

 

[xl130]

@ xl130
You made me look.
My Farmsaw under "Model" says FM, under "Date" is an 80, it is possible, I purchased her in 1979 or 1980. My only requirement was no chain brake.

Yup mine too

 

[Jasonrkba]

Now im curious why they made two saws. The farmsaw/p series where just great saws. They port up nice also.

 

[Lou]

Please forgive how dirty she is. When I was stationed at Holloman AFB I had a large metal shipping container that was half full of diesel. Every time she was started before she was put away she was completely washed down with diesel.
I had a 79 International Traveler (stretched Scout II) that was diesel-powered (Nisson) so diesel was an easy solvent.
I got ordered to Germany (85) and my shipping container was given to someone else. I have never replaced it although I've considered it a few times.

I'm not a photographer and couldn't get a good photo of her tag.
Hopefully, these photos will help with Jason's comparison.

 

[Jasonrkba]

Here is the tag off the FM Im building out of basically parts.

 

[Lou]

It took 5 shots to get this one. But follows is my Farmsaw tag
@ Beavers; the camera is a Sony Cyber-Shot. One of the adjustments is a flash adjustment. Backing that off one position at a time to just short of zero finally returned a good shot.

 

[Beavers]

It took 5 shots to get this one. But follows is my Farmsaw tag View attachment 971108

My camera has settings that enable me to switch off the Flash mode, otherwise l have the same problem. Try switching off the Flash and see what happens.

 

[Beavers]

Here are the clutches and application. Off course they are all interchangeable with each model of Farmsaw you have. All the western models (W) were equipped with the steel clutch shoes.

 

[Jasonrkba]

I finally had a chance to start the farmsaw today. Luckily I had an extra line spool as the splines on the original broke. I guess the added compression from the gasket delete was enough to send it over the edge. I have a little carb work to do, it needs 1 3/4 - 2 turns to run right. The clutch may need a tighter spring because I couldn't keep the sprocket from turning. That could change after I add a bar and chain. I had to modify the gas cap to use a modern duck bill. I think it's going to be angry when it's done. I raised the exhaust I think it was 2 degrees, eliminatined the compression release and it has new rings. I also gutted the muffler and installed a sheet of SS mesh as a spark arrestor.

 

[Lou]

I finally had a chance to start the farmsaw today. Luckily I had an extra line spool as the splines on the original broke. I guess the added compression from the gasket delete was enough to send it over the edge. I have a little carb work to do, it needs 1 3/4 - 2 turns to run right. The clutch may need a tighter spring because I couldn't keep the sprocket from turning. That could change after I add a bar and chain. I had to modify the gas cap to use a modern duck bill. I think it's going to be angry when it's done. I raised the exhaust I think it was 2 degrees, eliminatined the compression release and it has new rings. I also gutted the muffler and installed a sheet of SS mesh as a spark arrestor.

Are you still using the plastic starter recoil? If yes please reconsider disabling the compression release. I've read what seems like hundreds of cautions/don't use the plastic starter without the compression release. Mine worked for a very long time without any problem until the starter rope got caught in branches and I continued to run her. Once I shut her off she would not restart. I ground the starter spirals to the point they would no longer engage. That's the only problem I can recall with my Farmsaw (I lied! I did have one problem with moisture in my coil. I am to blame for that too. I suffered a brain lapse and stored her overnight on the ground under a tarp). That plastic starter is probably the weakest part of the Farmsaw and those starter spools are scarcer than hens' teeth.
Lou

 

[Jasonrkba]

I've been trying to think of an alternate to the plastic spool but haven't thought of anything yet. I am getting closer and closer to buying a 3D printer for some of these old plastic parts. Im surprised nobody has started reproducing yet other than 10-10 flywheel dust covers. The spool and cog I used is from a p40 I believe and the cog is a smaller diameter.

 

[Jasonrkba]

And I agree the starter assembly is a definite weak point. Bad design in my opinion.

 

[xl130]

And I agree the starter assembly is a definite weak point. Bad design in my opinion.

I think the only way to avoid destroying the FM started with decomp blocked would be to eliminate it all together and use a P40, P41 or possibly Farmsaw 2? Not sure on the Farmsaw 2 starter though. Never had one. You will definitely destroy the FM starter very quickly I’d decomp is disabled

 

[xl130]

Actually, changing the cover would lead to new problems. You would then need to change the flywheel and coil…..

 

[Jasonrkba]

Yep. I ordered the spool for a homelite 330. Looks the same and if it doesn't fit I have 3 330's. Extra parts always seem to get used around here. The problem with the decomp is I have the husky coil and they dont play well together.

 

[Jasonrkba]

And keep in mind this is not a saw that will see much use just playing around with parts from the parts bin. This whole saw for the most part is just parts. I bought a coil, rings and top handle.