The one I have is similar but the slot is only 5/16 and 3” long.
Pioneer chainsaws
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ML12
ArboristSite Guru
For the guys in BC, Canada, who are you using to get crank seals these days? Motion used to be my go-to but now they seem to want to charge full freight from the seal MFR for everything, when before i could just go and pick up the seals from their coquitlam warehouse and not pay any shipping.
Looking to get 4 of the SKF 6541 crank seals for the 750. (i did end up buying that other one on FB marketplace for the parts, so now i have 2 good cores, and only 1 starter cover..... isn't that the way it always goes)
Looking to get 4 of the SKF 6541 crank seals for the 750. (i did end up buying that other one on FB marketplace for the parts, so now i have 2 good cores, and only 1 starter cover..... isn't that the way it always goes)
My go to is Lordco in Kelowna here, or any other auto parts shop.
Applied Industrial Technologies. I’ve dealt with them in the Okanagan for seals and bearings. Lower Mainland showing a branch in Delta. I know the local supplier that I used to go to just ordered from them (Kelowna) any way. I skip the middleman now.
Plugging along on the resto p42. Went nuts and polished all the hardware and pretty much anything that isn’t powdercoated. Still after an nos full wrap for it(black). And a nice foot pad.
ML12
ArboristSite Guru
ended up calling fluidseal in richmond, sales person was most helpful.
lincolnscott7
ArboristSite Member
Hello folks, got something I'm stumped on and getting oh so frustrated with. Larger P series saw or I guess any of the P series that use the 6 AV rubbers. I now have 3 bottom supports that can't be used as the AV's split apart and left the metal part with screw still stuck in the support which forces me to have to go buy a new support and all new AV's due to not being able to remove the stuck half left in the support.
Does anyone please have a remedy for this???
Does anyone please have a remedy for this???
Drill a hole on the outer edge and try to chisel it out maybe. I’ve only had one lower give me grief like that, had enough spares to not fight with it very hard.
Two holes opposed.
That too, pair of needle nose to wind it out maybe.
lincolnscott7
ArboristSite Member
I see, yeah that would have worked possibly! I actually ended up getting one of them lined out after much trial and error. Started by putting "kroil" (a very good PB blaster alternative that works much better) in the cups to try and get any oil back in behind in the threads.
Then I took a ball peen hammer and struck the magnesium casting all around the area of the stuck AV's. Did this while also applying heat with a torch going back and forth from heat to hammer.
Then once it was good and hot, I took a impact screwdriver with a flathead and just pounded the living **** out of it with the flat head directly in the center of the AV. Eventually got it and you could hear the difference between the stuck AV and when it broke loose.
Then I took a pair of pliers and worked its way out. It helped once one was out to then try and hit the back side of the threads on the opposite side with the kroil.
My next idea was to take my dremel and try to cut a slot in the center of the AV metal so I could try and use a flat head screwdriver.
Sounds like there is more than one way to do it but I do like the idea of drilling a hole and using a punch possibly.
You can damn well bet I put anti-seize on threads putting them back. Steel and magnesium are always hell to deal with on old equipment.
Then I took a ball peen hammer and struck the magnesium casting all around the area of the stuck AV's. Did this while also applying heat with a torch going back and forth from heat to hammer.
Then once it was good and hot, I took a impact screwdriver with a flathead and just pounded the living **** out of it with the flat head directly in the center of the AV. Eventually got it and you could hear the difference between the stuck AV and when it broke loose.
Then I took a pair of pliers and worked its way out. It helped once one was out to then try and hit the back side of the threads on the opposite side with the kroil.
My next idea was to take my dremel and try to cut a slot in the center of the AV metal so I could try and use a flat head screwdriver.
Sounds like there is more than one way to do it but I do like the idea of drilling a hole and using a punch possibly.
You can damn well bet I put anti-seize on threads putting them back. Steel and magnesium are always hell to deal with on old equipment.
After inserting the needle nose tips in the holes slip a screwdriver in between the jaws, it works wonders to turn them out.
Easy Fix. l have come across this secenerio many times. Here is my solution: Just drill a 1/8" hole down thru the centre and then use a snap-on thread remover easy out turn it, it will come out. Note: lf your not worried about the paint, applieng heat will help the tough ones break loose.
Hey dose anyone know the story behind the pioneer holiday chainsaw. Anything special about it or just marketing for Christmas lol
lincolnscott7
ArboristSite Member
I'm sure this topic has been touched on before but I wasn't able to find what everyone's favorite adhesive / epoxy that they claimed worked the best for repairing the cracked reed blocks?? I have quite a few products that I had around that would work but didn't know if folks were glueing the cracks on the inside of the intake or just on the exterior?
I didn't want to use an epoxy on the inside of the intake if it couldn't stand up to the petrol.
I figured that you would just want to glue any split area and fill the cracks in?
Thank you so very much in advance!!!
I didn't want to use an epoxy on the inside of the intake if it couldn't stand up to the petrol.
I figured that you would just want to glue any split area and fill the cracks in?
Thank you so very much in advance!!!
ML12
ArboristSite Guru
Its coming together slowly. I need to decide if i keep the OMC carb and rebuild it, or if i figure out a way to put a tillotson HL in there, my 1750 has an HL swap, but my 700 has the OMC carb. And i guess i ought to order up the decal while I'm at it.
Need to make more space in the shop and finish the ongoing projects so that i can get started on the next big project...
1967 El Camino, 327 and a powerglide, going to pull the body off the frame, clean up the chassis and suspension, new bushings etc. rebuild the motor and 4 speed swap it. The body work was done by a previous owner and isn't great but i'd like to get it on the road and enjoy it a bit before i start cutting apart the panels.
Picked up a super t10 wide ratio for it (2.64:1 first gear), hurst shifter and made all the linkage with heim joints. Obviously will need to sort out the shifter handle as the car has a bench seat, but i'll wait. It'll have the smaller 10.4 clutch (153 tooth flywheel) because of the starter holes in the block.
makes chainsaws seem cheap... ugh.
Need to make more space in the shop and finish the ongoing projects so that i can get started on the next big project...
1967 El Camino, 327 and a powerglide, going to pull the body off the frame, clean up the chassis and suspension, new bushings etc. rebuild the motor and 4 speed swap it. The body work was done by a previous owner and isn't great but i'd like to get it on the road and enjoy it a bit before i start cutting apart the panels.
Picked up a super t10 wide ratio for it (2.64:1 first gear), hurst shifter and made all the linkage with heim joints. Obviously will need to sort out the shifter handle as the car has a bench seat, but i'll wait. It'll have the smaller 10.4 clutch (153 tooth flywheel) because of the starter holes in the block.
makes chainsaws seem cheap... ugh.
The saw looks great, and the El Camino will be a nice project.
i have heard you can put a carb from the Stihl 090 on that Pioneer, never tried it.
i have heard you can put a carb from the Stihl 090 on that Pioneer, never tried it.
You can. Keep in mind the 750 is governed and has a different throttle hook-up than a 700. In other words, the trigger pulls the throttle open but cannot push it closed. The 750 relies on the governor spring for that. Pioneer went from an ungoverned 700 to a governed 750 and back to the ungoverned 1750s on up. All using that lousy OMC carb. They should have done what Homelite and IEL did and use standard parts like Tillotson and Wico ignitions.
Keep in mind that Pioneer was OMC for a time, some fellow wearing a necktie said they were going to use their own products wherever possible.
Mark
Mark
ML12
ArboristSite Guru
I hadn't re-installed the governor, because i have an aversion to governors, but knowing this now, i'll put it back in and just use the OMC carb. I did recognize that the throttle linkage was weird when i took it apart.
I actually don't mind the ignitions, just do the cheap $20 coil swap from ebay/amazon/china, and they're usually good to go, never had any issues with the points or condenser, even on a couple that looked really ugly. Obviously none of these are every day saws for me.
The suspension is off, and all the bushings etc came out ok. didn't have to melt any of them. I'm particularly concerned about the body mount bolts as they're blind into captured nuts.... but i'll cross that bridge when i get there. Need to try and get some industrial surface tolerant epoxy primer for the frame then its just a question of how many wire wheels and flap disks i'll need.
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