Drummer
ArboristSite Member
Daniel;
I've got Arbor Master tapes. I'm interested in swapping or ? I couldn't email you (blocked?), but I did send PM. Please check.
Thanks,
Roger
plungging the spar
- Thread starter murphy4trees
- Start date
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Daniel;
I've got Arbor Master tapes. I'm interested in swapping or ? I couldn't email you (blocked?), but I did send PM. Please check.
Thanks,
Roger
murphy4trees
Addicted to ArboristSite
Graeme,
I've been giving some thought to the precaution: "The tree needs to be chained/cabled or strapped in at least 2 places below the cuts at the suitable spacings, prior to cutting. Without this precaution the tree has a chance of tearing a slab out of the back, below the climber and departing with the head."
I wonder if this tearing could be minimized when using the back release, by the following. After setting up the hinge with a plunge cut, finish the backcut by starting from behind and cutting foward, thus leaving the holding "strap", closer to the center of the trunk.
Would this prevent the tree from tearing out a slab in the back? If it was done wrong I could see it causing a bigger chunk to tear off. What do you think?
Also, what do you mean by "free" grained?
Thanks and God Bless,
Daniel
I've been giving some thought to the precaution: "The tree needs to be chained/cabled or strapped in at least 2 places below the cuts at the suitable spacings, prior to cutting. Without this precaution the tree has a chance of tearing a slab out of the back, below the climber and departing with the head."
I wonder if this tearing could be minimized when using the back release, by the following. After setting up the hinge with a plunge cut, finish the backcut by starting from behind and cutting foward, thus leaving the holding "strap", closer to the center of the trunk.
Would this prevent the tree from tearing out a slab in the back? If it was done wrong I could see it causing a bigger chunk to tear off. What do you think?
Also, what do you mean by "free" grained?
Thanks and God Bless,
Daniel
John Paul Sanborn
Above average climber
Many tropical hardwoods do not have the deliniation of spring and summer wood, they are constantly putting on diameter growth. This somehoe effects the stability of the grain, making it shear more easily.
Graeme
ArboristSite Lurker
Daniel
I understand your suggestion, however the "back release" has evolved to reduce the effect of "pulling" wood and the tendency to "barbers chair" the log above the faller during the falling operation. This is accomplished by nuetralizing (cutting) the wood behind the hinge. The more wood that can be severed, the more that the above is achieved. This results in an increaced tention on the rear holding strap. Hence there will always be a chance of its failure.
This is a technique of falling being applied off the ground. In falling, reducing the size of strap, improves log quality and reduces the time at the stump for the faller, during the release cut. Cutting the strap from sapwood side side and slightly below is the prefered way to release it.
"Free" grained timber is seen in trees where the force required for the trunk to split up is less than that needed to break the hinge. (My words only, I'm sure there will be a more specific def. somewhere)
I understand your suggestion, however the "back release" has evolved to reduce the effect of "pulling" wood and the tendency to "barbers chair" the log above the faller during the falling operation. This is accomplished by nuetralizing (cutting) the wood behind the hinge. The more wood that can be severed, the more that the above is achieved. This results in an increaced tention on the rear holding strap. Hence there will always be a chance of its failure.
This is a technique of falling being applied off the ground. In falling, reducing the size of strap, improves log quality and reduces the time at the stump for the faller, during the release cut. Cutting the strap from sapwood side side and slightly below is the prefered way to release it.
"Free" grained timber is seen in trees where the force required for the trunk to split up is less than that needed to break the hinge. (My words only, I'm sure there will be a more specific def. somewhere)
I like the plunge cut...
It prevents barber chair by cutting the part of the tree that splits.
Just today I dropped a 18" black locust with about 40% decay at DBH and again at ~20' of 52' total height.
I cut an open face notch then plunge cut leaving a 1.5-2" hinge with a 3" back strap. Then I cut the strap gently and it fell nicely.
The plunge would not of worked at the decay point but above and below it does the job.
Husquvarna Game of Logging and Arbor Master both recommend the open face notch and plunge cuts.
It prevents barber chair by cutting the part of the tree that splits.
Just today I dropped a 18" black locust with about 40% decay at DBH and again at ~20' of 52' total height.
I cut an open face notch then plunge cut leaving a 1.5-2" hinge with a 3" back strap. Then I cut the strap gently and it fell nicely.
The plunge would not of worked at the decay point but above and below it does the job.
Husquvarna Game of Logging and Arbor Master both recommend the open face notch and plunge cuts.
The farther back from the hinge the "backstrap" (holding or trigger wood) is the more leverage it can exercise from the release, so cutting in to release can be more dangerous than cutting out. Unless the remaining hinge is not calculated right; then you could be in trouble anyway!
Also cutting out moves you and the saw away from the hinging mass, rather than towards, another safety aspect of the technique. At least that is my view.....
Also cutting out moves you and the saw away from the hinging mass, rather than towards, another safety aspect of the technique. At least that is my view.....
