Pole saw injuries?

[Wolfcsm]

Are there any long term issues? I would expect that the overhead work would cause issues in the shoulder.

Hal

 

[derwoodii]

Are there any long term issues? I would expect that the overhead work would cause issues in the shoulder.

Hal

yes and the neck,, you need to measure your on tool time vs your own strengths over do it n yer buggered

 

[Wolfcsm]

I try and keep the saw lower than my shoulder. Could not always do that - so I went out and got a HT 101 extendable pole saw. So far I can keep it lower than my shoulder.

Hal

 

[szajer]

The pole saw is my sword. Used more than any tool I employ for tree care.

Back in 1997, climbing late winter- snow on the ground yet drizzling rain— "typical Ohio weather." I was descending a large red oak and had to tie in twice in order to make it to the ground. As I finished tying in and making my final descent, I took my pole saw from its perch above me, and advanced it by letting it slide through my hand, until I get to the hook/blade. Well, it was slick and it went further down than I anticipated. So as to grab hold before losing it to the ground, I reached for it, extending my arm vertically. The very tip of the blade poked thru my sweatshirt, flannel, and arm warmers-- leaving a small hole I the top layer of clothing.

I knew right away it was worse than it felt. I slowly pull up my sleeves and found I had a 5" cut thru every dermal layer to the muscle. Surprisingly it didn't bleed at first. I guess my body was like; Oh no you didn't!

Anyway, 3 hours and 8 sutures later, I was patched up.


This is one of a few pole saw mishaps the past 20+ years climbing.....

 

[Philbert]

Yikes!!!

Until I read this thread I did not realize the extent of injuries with these saws. I assumed that, since they were manual, they would be safe, especially compared to chainsaws.

(would it make me a Troll to start a thread on 'top-handled pole saws'?)

Philbert

 

[treesmith]

Scabbard

 

[szajer]

Yeah, I can see your point in regard to a scabbard, but at the rate I use the pole saw, it wouldn't be feasible. Just another 'thing' to have dangling from my saddle.

My only other brush with fate came when again, I was descending a large pin oak -with utility lines just feet away. The tree was located in the backyard were it had been pruned completely bare on one side, due to it being in line with the power companies right of way.

So as I was readying to touch earth, I grabbed for my pole saw that was hanging -and started letting it slide thru my hand to get to its middle for stability. But as I was doing this, a tooth happened to make contact with the power line. Just feet away from the back of my head- I see a brilliant blue flash with the sound of death just behind it. Scared the living hell outa me!

I made it to the ground and looked at where the blade touched. The electricity had blown off an inch worth of teeth and welded the remaining area. At the time I was using the old school poles that were made from a solid 12' piece of linden wood, with an aluminum Fred Marvin head and Fanno blade. May have been a different story with the Silky I use today.

 

[beastmaster]

Interesting how different people feel about the pole saw. I have several pole saws with different blades for doing different kinds of jobs. On some trees, like pine trims, I'll do the whole tree with a pole saw. Biggest problem is carrying one around with you in the tree. I carry mine upside down with the handle girth hitched to my saddle with a sling. I reach down grab the sling, and in a single motion have the saw ready to cut. Though I haven't had a pole saw related injury is more luck then skill, I've had a lot of close calls with that blade over the years, thats why I like to keep the blade as far a way as possible when I climb though a tree.

 

[beastmaster]

Yeah, I can see your point in regard to a scabbard, but at the rate I use the pole saw, it wouldn't be feasible. Just another 'thing' to have dangling from my saddle.

My only other brush with fate came when again, I was descending a large pin oak -with utility lines just feet away. The tree was located in the backyard were it had been pruned completely bare on one side, due to it being in line with the power companies right of way.

So as I was readying to touch earth, I grabbed for my pole saw that was hanging -and started letting it slide thru my hand to get to its middle for stability. But as I was doing this, a tooth happened to make contact with the power line. Just feet away from the back of my head- I see a brilliant blue flash with the sound of death just behind it. Scared the living hell outa me!

I made it to the ground and looked at where the blade touched. The electricity had blown off an inch worth of teeth and welded the remaining area. At the time I was using the old school poles that were made from a solid 12' piece of linden wood, with an aluminum Fred Marvin head and Fanno blade. May have been a different story with the Silky I use today.

Im glad you made it through that. HV isn't very forgiving. A guy I use to work with brother used a alum. handle off a pool scupper net to use for a pole pruner handle, It worked pretty good, tell the day of the accident. I was there when they told him, It still haunts me.

 

[TreeGuyHR]

I would think the repeated motion, soft tissue injuries, such as elbow tendonitis, rotator cuff, are probably the most prevalent. I rarely use a pole saw in a tree- usually can reposition to get where I need to be.

Tell me about it. I had a job 5 years ago involving around 50 medium sized oaks. First stage was thinning the weak ones and dead-wooding the rest I ended up getting severe tendonitis in BOTH elbows at the same time. Ouch.

While climbing, I yanked on my pole saw lanyard when the saw hung up (without looking at it) -- the saw blade poked a gash just above my eye. Should have retired the blade, but I only had broken off the first 2 inches so it was still good without the rounded end, right?

 

[szajer]

broken off the first 2 inches so it was still good without the rounded end, right?

What I've noticed of pole blades is -the more the better.

I've used Fanno and ARS blades for years. Their arch is modest, a slight concave. I've been with Silky now for 6 years and their bend radius is rather aggressive comparatively. The nose of the blade -I find, gets the most use. It's what keeps your blade 'in cut' as your sawing away. Any bent, cracked, broken blades should be disregarded. Now as for bent, I've honed many blades straight. But the alloys are compromised -and will simply fail sooner or later.

 

[TreeGuyHR]

I have quite the collection of used blades as well. At around $30 each, the large hooked ARS blades are hard to toss when dull. I find that they are stiffer than other brands and less prone to bend but more prone to break. It is also worthwhile to clean and oil them when they get pitchy. And yes, I will never use one with a broken tip again -- I would like to keep both eyes.

 

[Philbert]

Anybody sharpen theirs? I have sharpened my consumer grade pole saw blades with a triangular file, and it made a big difference. Don't know if you need feather files for the pro grade blades, or if it is worth the time.

Philbert

 

[beastmaster]

Anybody sharpen theirs? I have sharpened my consumer grade pole saw blades with a triangular file, and it made a big difference. Don't know if you need feather files for the pro grade blades, or if it is worth the time.


I sharping my silky blades all the time. It took a while but I can do it pretty fast now. At 80.00 a blade I want to get as much use out of them as I can. Most blades you can't sharpen, if they have been "inpulse harden", forget it. I get 4 or 5 sharpens on them before they don't work as well then toss them in the pile.
The silkys take a special feather file. Their 30.00 a piece, but I find them on ebay every once in a while for less

 

[thisisfluff]

In the rare occasion I have a pole saw or pole pruner w/ me I will either girth hitch it w/ a strap to a branch out of the way of my work area or if I am moving to a new area in tree, I will use a long strap and hang it below me while I move, always keeping a wary eye on it. When I first started climbing I saw a guy nearly impale himself on his polesaw b/c he didn't pay attention as he was descending out of the tree right to the spot he threw his pole into the ground before coming down. We were able to stop him within inches of the blade pointing at his backside. Gotta treat them like any other sharp object we use, w/ a whole lotta respect.

 

[GroundSquirrel]

If not using the saw, I think you are s'posed to have a scabbard over the blade.
Which would be safe, but inconvenient.
Be nice if someone invented a commercial duty spring loaded retractable blade polesaw.

Better to be safe so you can live another day to grouse about the inconvenience!

a few years ago a guy on my crew was working under a power pruner picking up brush as it was falling, the operator of the polesaw had a bad habbit of letting the saw drop after a branch was cut, long story short the groundie got his forearm tendons shortened, many stitches and a new job. were still good friends now but he cant make a fist and bent his wrist down without his fingers opening up

And THIS is why you never drop your guard in the LZ or get to close to a 'cutter' wherever that cutter might be working! Sorry to hear this.

 

[Slang]

I use my elastic neck lanyard to hold the scabbard while making the cut to minimize the time the blade is exposed and limit it to only that time in which I am making a cut, then put it back on immediately after each cut. I think it could just as easyly be stored on a clip on your harness etc. I don't mined getting whacked with the saw and getting a bruise of some sort but that blade is some serious hurt anyway it touches you.

video of a canopy clean using the pole saw staring at 8:00, this link should take you to that time stamp.

You guys are freakin' amazing! Much respect to you, from Slang.