Port timing---Degree wheel setup.

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Using the wheel, you find out the opening and closing locations for the intake, exhaust, and transfer ports. Once you know the locations you can figure duration. Once you know duration you can go about making a plan to make changes in timing or time/area, if that is your inclination.
 
now that its set up how is it used? I been searching all week on this site and havn't found any instructions, so frustrating!

Im not too computer user friendly, but go to the hot saw forum, its below the chainsaw forum,, go to saw building 101, 9th thread down is port height change. Click on it and go to the 7th post made by troutfisher and click on his link.

You could always start a thread and post some picture and let somebody walk you through it too.
 
The dial indicator will not distinguish between the few degrees near TDC when the piston is basically motionless.


Thanks for the Rep ..:)

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Great thread, I am trying my first full port job and learning the degree wheel (thanks to your help). My question is about your post about TDC.
I feel i understand TDC, but with a degree wheel on the saw there's a few maybe ( 5-7?) degrees between when piston stops coming up and starts going down (Motionless) In you post would you say TDC is right at the start of the motionless period or right before the piston drops ( end of the motionless). My 024 will only sit on one side or the other of the motionless period. ( do you use the piston stop to hold it in the center?)I hope my post this comes across clear.




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Im not too computer user friendly, but go to the hot saw forum, its below the chainsaw forum,, go to saw building 101, 9th thread down is port height change. Click on it and go to the 7th post made by troutfisher and click on his link.

You could always start a thread and post some picture and let somebody walk you through it too.

for those in the future looking for the above mentioned thread.

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/113678.htm
 
so I don't have a flywheel puller, how else can I mount a degree wheel onto the flywheel in a sturdy manner using non specialized tools / parts? I know some bought degree wheels come with adapters and what not but I'm just going to print it and use a cardboard wheel if I can find a way to mount it that is.
 
so I don't have a flywheel puller, how else can I mount a degree wheel onto the flywheel in a sturdy manner using non specialized tools / parts? I know some bought degree wheels come with adapters and what not but I'm just going to print it and use a cardboard wheel if I can find a way to mount it that is.
Drill chuck and mount it on the other side of the saw after removing the clutch drum and bearing there's enough shaft to chuck it up

Sent from my SM-N910G using Tapatalk
 
I know I'm brand new on this site, but I would have to say, If you don't know how to setup and use a degree wheel, you probably shouldn't be grinding on ports. There are variables that can affect measurement's, but the degrees are always going to be the same. You can't do anything that's going to change a circle being 360 degrees as long as your setup and method of measuring port opening is accurate.
 
I know I'm brand new on this site, but I would have to say, If you don't know how to setup and use a degree wheel, you probably shouldn't be grinding on ports. There are variables that can affect measurement's, but the degrees are always going to be the same. You can't do anything that's going to change a circle being 360 degrees as long as your setup and method of measuring port opening is accurate.
It's OK as long as you practice on a Stihl - that way it won't matter if you mess it up. :laugh:
 

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