Ported 044

[Moparmyway]

Its my "go to" saw. Did all of the work myself, got some help with the numbers from a few nice Dudes from Tennessee. Numbers are in degrees of duration

Intake : 152
Exhaust: 162
Transfer: 130
BD: 16

 

[Moparmyway]

Would you go back in and add some more intake ?

 

[trappermike]

The work you did in the photos looks good. Did you chamfer the the top and bottom edges of the intake and exhaust
ports well,I can't tell from the photos,it is crucial to do it well.

 

[Moparmyway]

Yup, I used a round ball carbide bit and it worked great.

 

[mopar1rules]

Cuts well but you could lean it out a little. She's 4strokin bad. Lol.

I love my ported 044 as well. If memory serves me right, my specs are as follows:
Exh 154 or 156
Trans stock-just removed the lip on bottom
Int 148 or 150
Squish .032"

 

[HuskStihl]

Where's the compression at? Are you gasketless?

 

[Moparmyway]

Tossed the gasket and am running close to 180 IIRC ............... I can check in a little while

 

[Moparmyway]

Cuts well but you could lean it out a little. She's 4strokin bad. Lol.

I love my ported 044 as well. If memory serves me right, my specs are as follows:
Exh 154 or 156
Trans stock-just removed the lip on bottom
Int 148 or 150
Squish .032"

Yeah, breaking her in slowly. I dont mind a little 4 stroking with a long bar ........... keeps my cylinder real cool !!

Got yours on any videos ??

 

[HuskStihl]

Tossed the gasket and am running close to 180 IIRC ............... I can check in a little while

Have you played with advancing the timing any?

 

[mopar1rules]

Yeah, breaking her in slowly. I dont mind a little 4 stroking with a long bar ........... keeps my cylinder real cool !!

Got yours on any videos ??

Breaking her in slowly?!?!?......lol. No such thing in my book. I don't have any videos mine. I'm not the most computer savy.

 

[Moparmyway]

Have you played with advancing the timing any?

Yup, Randy suggested 1/3 of the keyway be filed down, so I did ........... ........ IIRC it was about 6 deg more spark

 

[Moparmyway]

Breaking her in slowly?!?!?......lol. No such thing in my book. .

Only as far as leaning out the very rich mixture ............. I run mine on the rich side - especially the first dozen or so tanks.
Everything else is beating on it like I stole it !!

 

[poulan thrower]

looking at your pictures i find that the best thing for a wood ported saw is to go to the crome and polish the ports i dont know why every one is hung up on filing keyways i like to take a dremal to the coil and advance timing that way its faster and get the same timing advance

 

[Moparmyway]

looking at your pictures i find that the best thing for a wood ported saw is to go to the crome and polish the ports i dont know why every one is hung up on filing keyways i like to take a dremal to the coil and advance timing that way its faster and get the same timing advance

- Not sure what you mean by "go to the chrome"
- Filing the keyway allows the flywheel to move forward just about 1 fin (on the flywheel), I would not think that you can advance the coil that much by elongating the mounting holes, as that's alot of distance to move. IIRC, the filing keyway gave me about 5 or 6 degrees of advance

 

[trappermike]

Moparmyway the photo of your chain "cutting tooth" looks like a nice example of use of a "flat" file,that tooth would cut fast and smooth,I filed my chain on my 084 and 038 Mag much like that,good quality "flat" files,20 degree top plate angle,.030" -.035" on the rakers depending what kind of wood to cut. Nice work,so few people file that way anymore,yet in the "Old days" that was normal procedure for sharpening.
Your port work on the cylinder is quite good,nice smooth port contours,symmetry,but I would like to increase the chamfers on the top and bottom edges of the intake and exhaust ports for better durability and longevity.Your photos show a good example of how you used the "wear" or "contact" area on the cylinder from the piston to widen the ports,and maintain 1.5mm- 3mm(Depends on the app.)
Nice work,as for port polishing I believe a good mirror-like finish is good for the exhaust port- helps flow and reduces carbon buildup(Not good for flow!) As for the intake port my work I believe a very smooth profile with a fine "brushed" type finish.I believe a polished-mirror type finish on the intake port causes fuel going down the port to sort of "re-condense"with droplets of fuel dragging down the surface of the port; like water droplets going up your windshield of your car for example in the rain at high speed(with the wipers off).The "fine brushed" finish breaks up the droplets of fuel and helps keep the fuel atomized in the intake port. As for the transfer ports,I like them to be smooth,well and closely contoured,Not polished; so I may differ with some other people opinions,in fact in some builds I have used a "Glass bead blast" finish inside the transfer port passages to help break up and atomize any raw fuel.
Your work is nice,as for your port timing the figures you used are good,I too however would prefer to see a little more duration on the intake and exhaust ports: I'd like about 168-170 degrees exhaust(Increases blowdown time and topend power), 156-158 degrees intake. However your specs are great too and your work is nice.
To top it off you're a Mopar man too,I've been driving(The hell out of them) them since 1972; '69 Dodge Super Bee's and R/T's,Little Red Express truck,Power Wagon trucks,old Chryslers etc...

 

[Moparmyway]

Thanks trapper.
Just a few thoughts on your post ....................
-.035" rakers on square filed is alot unless its real softwood. Hardwood does better with .025, softwood likes .030 with my angles (20-25 top plate hardwood, 15-20 top plate softwood).
-If its a "utility" chain to be run in anything, 20 top plate and I really like how .028 rakers self feeds smoothly, limiting stresses on the clutch and clutch side bearing
-More chamfer is not necessary on intake port, rings don't ride there
-More chamfer on the exhaust will add a tiny bit more duration and take away a slight amount of compression, IMHO, you just need the chamfer to avoid snagging a ring, anything more is just changing the timing numbers
-Flat file is still 6 sided, not 4 (goofy)
-168-170 duration on exhaust ........ are you planning on running a tuned pipe ?
-I believe you will loose too much torque in the cut with such a long duration exhaust if you are going to be running a muffler.
-I will be getting my intake duration up to my exhaust duration the next time I tear down this saw (target of 160), its a work saw, if it was a cookie cutter, I would have done things a little differently, but I think its important to limit compression (MAX 190#) and duration (max 160 intake and exhaust) on an 044 work saw in order to keep longevity of the saw and usefulness of the saw in the cut. Gotta be able to stop and start the chain when felling, and I have to be able to bore in when bucking sometimes to avoid a pinch, that takes torque.
-1970 Challenger (I have had mine for 22 years now)
-Pics and/or videos of your saw are allways welcome, plus I love learning new things, so I hope you port your saw as planned and let me know the results ............ my numbers/shape on the ports might not be the best for a worksaw, lets see what your ports look like and see what 170 exhaust does with a 28 buried in the cut !!

 

[mdavlee]

Stock 660 has 170 degrees of duration. Those type numbers used to be normal work saw numbers. A pipe needs 180+ to really come alive.

 

[Trx250r180]

I sold my 70 and my 71 challengers over a year ago ,no time to redo them still have the 440+6 gtx though