BigDaddyR
Addicted to ArboristSite
Okay so after doing the modification for the tranfer baffles to my 365XT I can't seem to get it to idle steady and seems like it races then when warm idles better. Has cut okay and made good power but from reading on here I know it can be seriouls not good for your saw and want to fix the issue. The other day I took a quick look at it with the top cover off and found the intake boot clamp about 4 turns loose. Not sure if it vibrated loose or I left it loose. I really thought I had it tightened. Does this need thread locker on it to be sure or do they typically hold well?
Started it and still seems to pick back up speed and race after bringing down from High idle. I don't remember it doing this before so will assume it has a leak. It does seem to slow down when turned on either side but does not die. When I first did the mod and then got it tuned by the dealer then it did die when turning it on it's side
When grinding the transfer covers I knicked the side raised edge bevels for lack of a better way to put it but at the time didn't think it would be an issue as it has an oring type gasket/seal in the transfer cases.
The other thing it could be is the base gasket which looked in very good shape when I put it back together.
I bought some Permatex Anerobic Gasket Sealer based on my dealer recommendation and some things I read on here. Can the sealer be used to seal the transfer covers along with the orings, do I need new transfer covers off of a 372, or do I need to rebuild the "channels" on the covers with JB weld.
As far as sealing the base gasket goes does it make any sense to remove the base gasket and just use the sealer that I got. It seems that a lot of people here have measured the squish and have had sufficient room to remove the base gasket. Are tolerances consistent enough with Husqvarna parts manufacturing to trust that I could do so without measuring squish? Just questions here. I don't have to take shortcuts but don't have the tools to measure at this time. I'm okay with just sealing the gasket and putting it back on. I don't care much about any extra compression. I just want to fix my saw and have it run right.
Thanks for any thoughts. I'm going out to see if I can narrow down the leak.
Started it and still seems to pick back up speed and race after bringing down from High idle. I don't remember it doing this before so will assume it has a leak. It does seem to slow down when turned on either side but does not die. When I first did the mod and then got it tuned by the dealer then it did die when turning it on it's side
When grinding the transfer covers I knicked the side raised edge bevels for lack of a better way to put it but at the time didn't think it would be an issue as it has an oring type gasket/seal in the transfer cases.
The other thing it could be is the base gasket which looked in very good shape when I put it back together.
I bought some Permatex Anerobic Gasket Sealer based on my dealer recommendation and some things I read on here. Can the sealer be used to seal the transfer covers along with the orings, do I need new transfer covers off of a 372, or do I need to rebuild the "channels" on the covers with JB weld.
As far as sealing the base gasket goes does it make any sense to remove the base gasket and just use the sealer that I got. It seems that a lot of people here have measured the squish and have had sufficient room to remove the base gasket. Are tolerances consistent enough with Husqvarna parts manufacturing to trust that I could do so without measuring squish? Just questions here. I don't have to take shortcuts but don't have the tools to measure at this time. I'm okay with just sealing the gasket and putting it back on. I don't care much about any extra compression. I just want to fix my saw and have it run right.
Thanks for any thoughts. I'm going out to see if I can narrow down the leak.