Got this weird problem with my Craftsman/Poulan 2.0 saw. While using it one day the saw just shutoff, and would not restart at all. Also while opening the throttle all the way while pulling the things makes whistling sound now. Got it running again but now the carb was way off and had to adjust a million times until it was right or at least I thought so. Next time I tried to start, nada, had to use either and she started, ran like crap and adjusted a millon times again. Changed fuel line, rebuilt carb, and flipped reed valve??, no change, and still whistling on cranking???? Could it be I need a new reed valve?? The saw will cut fine and run good but the adjustment never seems right all time. Also while reving it you can see heavy fuel droplets, and some shoots back out the carb??? Anyone got any clues?? The reed valve dosn't look like it closes too good.
Problem with a saw
- Thread starter dave76
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Bruce Hopf
ArboristSite Guru
OK. It sonds like that your needle valves for your carb are vibrating loose. Once you get the needles set properly, and the saw runs good again. Shut it off. Turn the needles in all the way, counting the 1/2 turns you make with the screw driver until it get snug. Do 1 needle valve at a time. Remove the needle, Put a little loctite, on the threads, put the needle valve back in, turn until snug, and turn it out the number of half turns that you came up with before. Repeat the same with the other one. Let the saw sit for a day, and let the loctite set up. You will still be able to adjust your needles afterward. this will tighten up your needles, and they won't vibrate out of addjustment.
Bruce.
If you see fuel coming back out, sounds like reed problems also.
Ancient 2 stroke gp motorcycles used to have resonant ranges where the air would go in, back out, and in again. Passing the jets three times, hence 'triple fueling' and ran like crap in that speed range as way too rich.
Those were piston ported, but if your reeds are not good, maybe something similar happens. Is it just in a narrow rpm range, or all over?
k
Ancient 2 stroke gp motorcycles used to have resonant ranges where the air would go in, back out, and in again. Passing the jets three times, hence 'triple fueling' and ran like crap in that speed range as way too rich.
Those were piston ported, but if your reeds are not good, maybe something similar happens. Is it just in a narrow rpm range, or all over?
k
Brmorgan
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To add to what Bruce said, DO NOT use Red loctite or you'll need a torch to heat it up to unlock it. Use Blue. But your jet screws should have springs on them to prevent them backing out. It almost sounds like you might have an air leak somewhere and are having to over-richen the carb mix to compensate for it. That would explain why it runs fine at high RPM but doesn't want to draw enough fuel to start, and it might explain a whistle too. I haven't worked on reed-valve saws much but logically I suppose that could also explain the same symptoms. Either that or it was run too lean or on unmixed gas and scorched the piston, and now has poor compression.
Last edited:
Bowtie
Gearhead
I have seen wayyy too many poulans with the screws falling out. Its almost rampant with the newer ones.
Check the bolts that hold the cylinder to the case. They are prone to vibrate loose and then the cylinder draws air. You can crank those carb jets for ever and it wont set right.
lawnmowertech37
Addicted to ArboristSite
if that is similar to the poulan 2316 model them screws behind the carb is what needs to be tightened up cause it is come loose from the cylinder which in turn has caused a air leak so that should take care of your issue with it
let us know
calvin
let us know
calvin
Dave, if your craftsman 2.0 is a top handle saw then it 's a Poulan 2000. The spec is a maximum gap of .010" between tip of reed petal and seating surface. A relative has one that has a kinked reed petal and it's problems are the same as yours.
