Problem with Stihl ms250

[Nosmo]

I've been down that road with the MS250 myself. It never would sling oil like the book recommends a person do before cutting. Yours is new but after mine was a little older I changed the vent valve . Do a search on this I posted some time ago about how to remove and replace this valve.

Mine seems to lay down more oil now but it still doesn't sling it onto a log.
By the way if your saw begins to leave oil on the floor after your finished using it try this --- open the oil tank valve and let the pressure out. If that valve I mentioned is working correctly it lets air flow in through that valve but doesn't let it flow out. The oil pump is supposed to work correctly when there is pressure in the tank.

A step up to a MS260 Pro will solve that oiling problem for sure.

Nosmo

 

[MillwrightChris]

A step up to a MS260 Pro will solve that oiling problem for sure.

Nosmo

I know, I know.... I wish I had just spent the extra money and bought a pro saw to begin with.(260pro/346xp/2153) But I only bought this saw for occasional light limbing when I don't feel like dragging around a 70cc+ saw. I thought it would be good enough for that??? I might just end up selling it and going that route after all.

 

[Skier76]

I've had my MS250 for over a month now. I've cut down some small trees, bucked those and cut some pine rounds down to size so they fit in my stove.

I've run the tank pretty low and found that the saw uses about 3/4 of a tank of bar oil per tank.

However, this saw doesn't sling a heck of a lot of oil when you put the bar near a bit of wood or a stump. I "assume" (and we know where that gets me) that it's enough to keep the chain and bar lubed. I'm not seeing much in terms of overheating on the bar or chain. However, there have been some times where the chain did look a bit dry when I was deep into a stump (holding the saw sideways).

I saw this thread around the time I bought the saw, so oiling is something I keep my eye on. I'm homeowner, so this saw doesn't see heavy hard use....weekend warrior.

 

[Brushwacker]

If the chain isn't good and sharp, more friction and heat thins out the oil and at a point burns it. I'm not saying that the issues mentioned haven't had other causes, possibly a weak oil pump or the other things mentioned. But if a user isn't keeping the chain sharp to its near maximum potential it could push an non adjustable or even an adjustable oiler to or beyond its capabilities.

 

[rwatson22]

i've a 250 for about 7 years. used moderately.. mostly no oiling problems except once the oil hole stopped up. it does leak oil in the caase just sitting. good luck.

 

[MillwrightChris]

Update

Well, I made a rather strange discovery on the MS250 oiler issue. Since I bought the saw the only chain I had run on it was Oregon 22LPX. I tried running a loop of Stihl RMC3 chain and it's a night and day difference. With the Stihl chain the oil is running down the bar like I originaly thought it should. The only difference between the two chains is the stihl has an oil hole in every drive link while the oregon is every other. Must be enough to make up for the low output of the newer oiler?:monkey:

 

[Fish]

Well, I made a rather strange discovery on the MS250 oiler issue. Since I bought the saw the only chain I had run on it was Oregon 20LPX. I tried running a loop of Stihl RMC3 chain and it's a night and day difference. With the Stihl chain the oil is running down the bar like I originaly thought it should. The only difference between the two chains is the stihl has an oil hole in every drive link while the oregon is every other. Must be enough to make up for the low output of the newer oiler?:monkey:

Maybe you should learn more about chains.......

Maybe if you knew, you would revise your last post......

 

[MillwrightChris]

Maybe you should learn more about chains.......

Maybe if you knew, you would revise your last post......

I assume you are referring to me mistakenly writing 20LPX (.050) instead of 22LPX (.063) ???

Maybe you should learn to be a little more tactful in your replies. I don't pretend to know everything and was just posting some info that I thought might be useful to someone on this forum.

 

[Skier76]

Interesting info on the chains. Thanks for sharing that.

 

[Fish]

I assume you are referring to me mistakenly writing 20LPX (.050) instead of 22LPX (.063) ???

Maybe you should learn to be a little more tactful in your replies. I don't pretend to know everything and was just posting some info that I thought might be useful to someone on this forum.

You are right, I was being a ####, I apologize......

 

[Fish]

I cannot say D ick? What if that was my name?

 

[ChrisF]

I cannot say D ick? What if that was my name?

Then you'd have to go by Richard on this forum, I'm afraid.

 

[MillwrightChris]

You are right, I was being a ####, I apologize......

No problem my friend, It happens to all of us.

 

[stihl sawing]

You are right, I was being a ####, I apologize......

You tryin to be an INSTINE again.

 

[Brushwacker]

Well, I made a rather strange discovery on the MS250 oiler issue. Since I bought the saw the only chain I had run on it was Oregon 22LPX. I tried running a loop of Stihl RMC3 chain and it's a night and day difference. With the Stihl chain the oil is running down the bar like I originaly thought it should. The only difference between the two chains is the stihl has an oil hole in every drive link while the oregon is every other. Must be enough to make up for the low output of the newer oiler?:monkey:

I don't think the holes would make that much differance, a little yes, I do use both styles myself. IMO judging from my experiance your Oregon chain was probably not very sharp or not cutting very straight causing more friction and heat. If you switched back to a new 22lpx and it did the same thing before dulling it that would prove me wrong but I don't think so.

 

[MillwrightChris]

I don't think the holes would make that much differance, a little yes, I do use both styles myself. IMO judging from my experiance your Oregon chain was probably not very sharp or not cutting very straight causing more friction and heat. If you switched back to a new 22lpx and it did the same thing before dulling it that would prove me wrong but I don't think so.

Saw was brand new, chain was brand new. And we're talking about heating up just running not even cutting. I've owned about 30 different saws including an 025 and an older MS250 running stihl,carlton,oregon and woodland pro chain and have never seen this happen. The only thing I can say is the newer oilers must put out so little that the oilmatic chain makes the difference between it actually working or not.

 

[DarkTimber]

If you are still not getting enough oil with all diffrent kinds of chains switch to a winter weight oil. It will not hurt to run it year round just keep a close eye on your oil level ( as in check it after running half a tank of gas) until you get used to how much oil is used. Also if my memory is correct on this Stihls oil inlet holes go straight into the bar and are not angled so reaming the oil hole out with a slightly larger drill bit may help your oiling problem. Just my 2 cents worth.

 

[Rickochet]

Any more feedback on this topic? My lil' 250 wants to smoke the bar when cutting. Almost no oil slings off like my other saws. Has anyone replace the oil pump for a fix?

 

[Mastermind]

There's a few things to check on the 025/ms250. next to the muffler on the pto side of the case you will see a plug that seals the oil galley (normally orange). If you blow air into the wrong places you can either blow it out, or make it go it too far. If it is forced in to far it will block the passage where the oil exits the case at the bar mount. If it's gone oil will leak out next to the muffler instead of going to the bar.

Next thing is the oil pump itself, if it is installed or is moved to an incorrect depth in the case it will block the inlet from the oil tank pick up into the pump. If the pump is too low it will not pick up well at all. The pump has a threaded hole in the bottom of it to pull the pump with, you can thread a screw into it and tap it in a bit if you see that it's blocking the inlet.

Of course check for trash in the oil tank, those foil seals from the oil jugs can seal a pick up filter surprisingly well.

 

[Terry Syd]

Several times in this thread it was asked 'can the oiler be modified?' I've never pulled an oiler out, but if it is cam operated I would expect a different cam profile would change the oil flow.

Can anybody clarify this issue - can oilers be modified?

Anybody have some pictures or a cutaway drawing of the parts of an oiler?

OK, I just found one thread on modifing an oiler - http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=156738&highlight=oiler