Problems with Stihl Ultra Oil

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Yeah, that's what's bugging me too. And since everyone keeps skipping the fact they were running rough BEFORE I adjusted the carbs, that bothers me even more.

The 192 would start and then die after you throttled up. Even if the saw stayed idle for 3-5 minutes.

The Mantis would start fine, run fine, and after 10 minutes it would lose power after throttling up. Never would come back. Thought it was an air leak at the carb, so replaced all lines, carb, and gaskets. Same thing.

The 036 was completely fine, then about 2 weeks ago it wouldn't top out at high speed. I used the 036 service manual, adjusted it, and checked with a tach. Ran fine until I was cutting through a 36 in. Hickory and it just died.

I bore scoped and saw all 3 were scored.

Is this the first time that you used any Ultra? What oil were you using before? Was this a new gas can, or one that had stuff in the bottom of it? Any other additives used?

It sounds like if you are comfortable replacing lines, gaskets, taching things, etc., the equipment was in fairly good shape.
 
WHGStih What dealer are you dealing with? I know most of them in the Cincinnati area. If you need help adjust the carbs on your equipment, or finding out what happened to your equipment just let me know and I'll help you out.

1. Completely ignore anyone that says modern 2 cycle oil won't mix with today's fuels, synthetic or convention. These people lack the knowledge to fully understand the difference between the two.

2. The type of oil is not the cause of the problems, it rarely ever is, unless you don't use any lol. Ultra is one of the best two cycles made today, end of story.

3. Temperature/weather changes can cause running issues, when this happens you need someone that knows what their going to tune the carb for you.;)
 
I talked to my boys at the stihl dealer here that I use religiously, and when I asked about the HP Ultra oil compared to the High Performance oil here is what I was told. The HP ULTRA oil was designed to work better with the new 4mix motors, the Ultra oil was made because of the new emission BS. It will work in the all stihl products, HOWEVER, The older Stihl equipment was designed to work with the standard High Performance oil(hence the term High Performance). Therefore you should continue to use the oil that the products you have were designed to use. And they said if you have been running them on the regular HP oil, and aren't having any problems, don't switch. Stick with what works and what they were designed for.

The only thing that we use the Ultra in is two 4mix weedeaters, and FS90, and an FS110. I hate those two compared to my FS85 PRO, I would have the 2cycle over the other two anyday.

I use Ultra in EVERYTHING from 40 year old saws to 4 month old saws... mixed at 50:1... no problems at all... ever. The Ultra is fullsynthetic that was designed when the 4mix motors came out. But can be safely used in anything. Your dealer is full of BS.

Gary
 
The new gas you bought is your problem NOT the oil. We in Ontario have 94 Octane gas . A friend & I both had the same problem after trying the 94 . Bikes spit, sputtered and ran like crap (liquid cooled dirt & 2002 Hardley Ableson!). That fuel smelled like pure alcohol. Now I only run 91 octane & have not issues. Put some of your mix in a glass jar and see if anything settles. I'd be dumping the fuel & going to a different station.
 
The rough running part could indicate too rich a fuel/air mix. But the "too hot" part would say to me "too lean." Of course, there are numerous reasons the engines could run roughly. An engine running too rich would more likely be too cool and need leaning.

99.999% chance the engines were running too lean to begin with, for unknown reason(s). By leaning out the engines to attempt to cure the roughness, they were killed off pronto.

[Note: I did this once, so I am guilty. I only did it once, it cost me a very nice saw and I felt pretty ridiculous when I realized what and how I'd done to the saw.]

The fact that all three engines exhibited similar problems prior to the leaning attempt at fix, something common to all three is likely the problem, such as fuel, which has already been suggested numerous times. Unless someone doesn't like you and messed up all carb settings on purpose, though I doubt that's it.

On the other hand, I only barely know squat.
 
I'm not sure if anyone else is having this issue or not (and I'm guessing people are/should be). In one month, I have had an 036 Pro, 192T, and just cause a Mantis Tiller 50:1 all bite the big one and have scored bores.

50:1 is not enough oil, IMHO, especially for a bitty engine like a chainsaw that runs WFO all the time. I generally run roughly 25:1 in my saws, and never less than 32:1 (32:1 only when using a high-performance oil like Yamalube).

JayC
 
50:1 is not enough oil, IMHO, especially for a bitty engine like a chainsaw that runs WFO all the time. I generally run roughly 25:1 in my saws, and never less than 32:1 (32:1 only when using a high-performance oil like Yamalube).

JayC

Hmmmm. Do you work for an oil or spark plug company? ;)
 
50:1 is not enough oil, IMHO, especially for a bitty engine like a chainsaw that runs WFO all the time. I generally run roughly 25:1 in my saws, and never less than 32:1 (32:1 only when using a high-performance oil like Yamalube).

JayC

I run 32:1 myself, but mostly because I run ported saws. 50:1 is fine in stock equipment. Overcompensating for bad tuning or an air leak gets you nowhere.
25:1 is way too much oil in a normal chainsaw.
 
i always have ,and will run 40:1 synthetic, and never have any issues. i run it in old and new saws alike,i have 30 yr old stihls that have never been apart yet.
 
50:1 is not enough oil, IMHO, especially for a bitty engine like a chainsaw that runs WFO all the time. I generally run roughly 25:1 in my saws, and never less than 32:1 (32:1 only when using a high-performance oil like Yamalube).

JayC

You using crappy oil? No need to use those old barbaric mix ratios anymore.

But... if you like fouled lugs and carbon buildup... they're your saws.

Gary
 
Running rough snd too hot? That makes no sense. What makes you say the saw was hot? So you leaned the saws etc out and killed them. It's your fault unless you had bad gas from the start. You can't blame Stihl for your failure as a mechanic.

BTW I don't like Stihl Ultra, I run Opti 2 at 100:1 and have for nearly 10 years in new saws and an old 090. No problems.
 
Originally Posted by JayC
50:1 is not enough oil, IMHO, especially for a bitty engine like a chainsaw that runs WFO all the time. I generally run roughly 25:1 in my saws, and never less than 32:1 (32:1 only when using a high-performance oil like Yamalube).

JayC
Hmmmm. Do you work for an oil or spark plug company? ;)

If you don't choke your engine with clogged air filters, and keep your carb adjusted to the enviroment spark plug fouling isn't a problem. I run 15 to 1 to 28 to 1 from the late seventies until now for the most part. I don't remember fouling a plug of my own since my first motorcycle in 1973. I didn't know enough to clean the air filter and did the break in in the manual, (not exceeding 4000 rpms. etc.). In fact I know an old farm boy that cut more then a little wood with an Echo 660 since the mid 1980's and about 2 years ago we were looking at his saw and it still had the original spark plug with orange echo paint. His dad an airplane mechanic + taught him to mix 1 quart of motor oil to a 5 gallon can of gas ( 20 to 1 ) and shake it up before each use and my friend said he always to this day mixes his that way with shell rotella and never has had a problem. About 2 to 3 years after his Dad died we drug his JD 70v out from under the work bench and I insisted he change gas before trying to start it after that amount of time it but he just shook it up in the saw a bit and it fired in little more then a few pulls and run fine.
I am not saying everybody should do likewise because the benefits each individual is looking for aren't the same. If your running a new saw and expect the warranty to be valid, follow the rules, can't keep your saw tuned at 25 to 1 ( I can ) better use something else. Not so good quality oils leave more carbon then good oil with fresh gas and sometimes significant enouh to cause a problem. Not so good oil likely could not be enough lubrication at 50 to 1 in extreme conditions and likely could ruin your engine way faster then some carbon build up would. People want to blame oil for this and that and so have I, but its usually something else they neglected by far the biggest problem.
If find a good synthetic at a good price I might switch to 40 to 1. I like the idea of less smoke and carbon even though I haven't been having enough to be a problem with either in my personal equipment. I buy,sell and trade several chainsaws a year and I've gotten many that were fairly loaded with carbon and most often a clogged air filter to boot. Probably how they were kept most their life. I went from 24 to 1 to 28 to 1 (5oz to a gallon of premium) about a year ago, I did wreck an 044 engine using some very old Stihl oil but I am not sure the cause as I did some amature work to the ports prior. I quit using the old oil and went back to what I usually buy, I think its Champion 2 cycle for air cooled that I have been using most for the last 10 or more years with no problems. 50 to 1 synthetic goes in my 4 mix and I'd probably use it if I bought a saw under warranty. I could use it for every thing but I lean towards extra lubrication with out any problems, especially in engines with high hours.
 
Originally Posted by JayC
50:1 is not enough oil, IMHO, especially for a bitty engine like a chainsaw that runs WFO all the time. I generally run roughly 25:1 in my saws, and never less than 32:1 (32:1 only when using a high-performance oil like Yamalube).

JayC

If you don't choke your engine with clogged air filters, and keep your carb adjusted to the enviroment spark plug fouling isn't a problem. I run 15 to 1 to 28 to 1 from the late seventies until now for the most part. I don't remember fouling a plug of my own since my first motorcycle in 1973. I didn't know enough to clean the air filter and did the break in in the manual, (not exceeding 4000 rpms. etc.). In fact I know an old farm boy that cut more then a little wood with an Echo 660 since the mid 1980's and about 2 years ago we were looking at his saw and it still had the original spark plug with orange echo paint. His dad an airplane mechanic + taught him to mix 1 quart of motor oil to a 5 gallon can of gas ( 20 to 1 ) and shake it up before each use and my friend said he always to this day mixes his that way with shell rotella and never has had a problem. About 2 to 3 years after his Dad died we drug his JD 70v out from under the work bench and I insisted he change gas before trying to start it after that amount of time it but he just shook it up in the saw a bit and it fired in little more then a few pulls and run fine.
I am not saying everybody should do likewise because the benefits each individual is looking for aren't the same. If your running a new saw and expect the warranty to be valid, follow the rules, can't keep your saw tuned at 25 to 1 ( I can ) better use something else. Not so good quality oils leave more carbon then good oil with fresh gas and sometimes significant enouh to cause a problem. Not so good oil likely could not be enough lubrication at 50 to 1 in extreme conditions and likely could ruin your engine way faster then some carbon build up would. People want to blame oil for this and that and so have I, but its usually something else they neglected by far the biggest problem.
If find a good synthetic at a good price I might switch to 40 to 1. I like the idea of less smoke and carbon even though I haven't been having enough to be a problem with either in my personal equipment. I buy,sell and trade several chainsaws a year and I've gotten many that were fairly loaded with carbon and most often a clogged air filter to boot. Probably how they were kept most their life. I went from 24 to 1 to 28 to 1 (5oz to a gallon of premium) about a year ago, I did wreck an 044 engine using some very old Stihl oil but I am not sure the cause as I did some amature work to the ports prior. I quit using the old oil and went back to what I usually buy, I think its Champion 2 cycle for air cooled that I have been using most for the last 10 or more years with no problems. 50 to 1 synthetic goes in my 4 mix and I'd probably use it if I bought a saw under warranty. I could use it for every thing but I lean towards extra lubrication with out any problems, especially in engines with high hours.

Extra lubrication? No. Decreased "octane" and increased risk of detonation? Yes.

Your post just describes what you want to believe and not what actually happens.
 
Iv'e seen oil, and ratio's evolve. Anywhere from 16:1 to 100:1 The 50:1 mix is built to run in any saw even old with the carb re- adjusted. To much oil will have the same scoring, and result's as a lean seize. Just a much slower death. Peak in take a look at the carbon pocket's. I have been running 50:1 Since the mixture's introduction could all the engineer's, saw mechanich's, bike mechanic's, Stihl, and all the top brand's be wrong? Do they want you to blow it up as to switch to another saw brand. I doubt it LOL!
 
Extra lubrication? No. Decreased "octane" and increased risk of detonation? Yes.

Your post just describes what you want to believe and not what actually happens.

And I've seen the results of not running enough oil as well. You do know Opti 2 is not recommended to be ran at 100:1 it's also not a fully synthetic oil. 100:1 mixes have been proven not to work, especially with today's fuels.

Here is a piston out of a saw that was running 100:1 mix. The saw was still running well before the tear down, a few more minutes of run time and boom.
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Even back in Amsoil 100:1 Day's I alway's went 50:1 50:1 is proven. 32:1 used to be the normall when the oil was made for that mix. If it say's 50 im running it!
 
Extra lubrication? No. Decreased "octane" and increased risk of detonation? Yes.

Your post just describes what you want to believe and not what actually happens.
Your the 1 that believes what you want to believe. I'm not going to deny common sense and experience or will I claim to know it all. I took a lot of peoples words over my experience in the past and found that experience is a more reliable teacher.
Oils a lubricant. Yes extra lubrication. Try putting 1 drop of oil on a piece of dry unlubricated metal and mate another piece to it and rub them together,then try 10 drops of the same oil. More oil will give you less friction, thus less heat, less resistance, not to mention other benifits. My understanding of octane is it cools thus less pre ignition in hard working engines. In my motorcycle racing days I could easily tell the differance using high octane vs less,(pinging or pre ignition from heat with less octane, same in cars and trucks under load) and I run 15 to 1 Castrol 2 cycle. A lot of racers were going to 40 to 1 etc. and a lot of them were re ringing their pistons every 2 or 3 races also. At the end of the year I pulled my top ends and still had good rings and some carbon but not enough it caused me problems in a years worth of combined motorcross racing,practicing and intense trail riding.
 
Anybody want to use a their shiney new automatically ajustling fuel saving stratoed Huskys and Stihls at 100:1 87 octane 10%E pump gas?

Opti first than Ams and some Purple wallet waster and finally Stihl's new and improved "give us all your money now b!!!!s" oil.

Forgot Klotz, oh well put it in there between the Opti and the Amsoil and hopefully it will help scrub the Opti residue off and help the Ams run longer.
 
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