Project 046 build with pics

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sILlogger

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I got a couple saws to build for one of my buddies that owns a tree service...440's & 046's mainly. well this is the beginning of the first one(will be an ongoing project) I had pictures from the time of my splitting it and cleaning it up..but my other camera took a crap on me. so we will have to start at the reassembly.

I know alot of guys use an oven of some sorts..but this is the method that I use. a good ole heat gun...you would be amazed at how hot these things get!! turn it on..let it sit for about 5 mins and the flywheel side bearing just falls into place.
Koles046build001.jpg

a little pressing with a 3 ton arbor press will get you set up for the clutch side (i pushed it in from the cluth side in and pressed it in deep(attached the oil pump and flushed the bearing up to the oil pump)
Koles046build003.jpg
before i started the reassembly i put the crank in the freezer just to help things along-and when it came time to put it all together I put in the flywheel side first and gave it a little bump with the press to get it in place. then i mated up the two case halves with the new gasket and got a couple of the crankcase bolts started. i began pulling the crankcase together in sequence with the bolts as to keep the case square..right before the case was all the way closed up i drove in the 2 alignment pins. and torqued down the case. here it is all buttoned up
Koles046build004.jpg
I then installed the flywheel nut and got a rubber mallet and gave the crank ends gentle raps while rotating the crank to recenter the bearings(you can really tell a difference in how the crank turns after doing this)
Now take a razorblade and trim up the crankcase gasket so that the new heat deflector will sit correctly
Koles046build005.jpg
apply the new heat deflector, I give mine a good wipedown with Coleman camp fuel before hand as to remove any oils that were on the area
Koles046build006.jpg
I don't have any pics..but on the seals..i looked up the crank, and the seal itself and used a socket and eased them onto the crank so to not roll over the edge of the seal and drove them in with a deep well socket(left the clutch side a little out and installed the oil pump to check for the depth needed and then inspected further-installed the flywheel side as well-sorry no pics)
Seals in..ready for the oil pump and chain brake(btw..don't forget the snap ring on the crank!!) o yea...and there is a little rubber o-ring that the oil pump mates up to..install that and the oil pickup before the oil pump
Koles046build007.jpg
 
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now..it is time to start piecing the chain brake linkage back together...step by step
Koles046build008.jpg
install the chainbrake handle and linkage
Koles046build009.jpg
brake band
Koles046build010.jpg
the main spring for the chainbrake(i used a screwdriver for this one)
Koles046build011.jpg
and lastly button it up with all of the cover-these are a little beat up
Koles046build012.jpg


there is alot more to come with this saw....but further progress will be delayed until we come up with a piston

Are my methods pretty well in tune with all you other guys??

hope you all enjoy!
 
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awsome.. threads like this are why i came here in the first place. we need more step by step building tutorilas such as this.
nice work, thanks
 
Looks great. I don't see anything wrong with your methods. Works for me. Will you be modding these P&Cs at all?

yup...no way in the world i'd take a saw down this far and put it back stock!! i've got to some up with a way of reinforcing the bottom of these saws..i don't know how but somehow this crew it just all out wearing out the bottom of these saws...i was thinking rubberized undercoating or even JB welding the bottom of the crankcase to make a buffer to keep the wear to a minimum
 
You might want to consider bedliner paint (ie rhinolining). You can get the roll on type or they also make a spray on version in an aerosol can. It is very tough stuff.
 
Nice!

Nice job SI!!!! Keep us posted!:greenchainsaw: :chainsaw:
 
You might want to consider bedliner paint (ie rhinolining). You can get the roll on type or they also make a spray on version in an aerosol can. It is very tough stuff.

yea i was thinking about something like this..I'm gonna go look at NAPA i know ive seen stuff like that there before..I'm gonna have to do something cuz the motor mount on the bottom clutch side rear is almost wore off

here is something that i also forgot to add. these are some new chain catcher rollers that i made on the lathe from some plastic round stock

Koles046build002.jpg
 
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alright..now for the muffler. this is the baffle that is inside of a stock 046/460 muffler
Koles046build015.jpg

the stock exhaust port---its so tiny!!
Koles046build016.jpg

alright..my prefered method of removing the baffle is to chuck it up in a mill and cut out the welds with an endmill...nothing flat..it comes out pretty neatly-no holes and comes out easy(this cover has been sandblasted), and the baffle in an 066/660 is even easier
Koles046build017.jpg

and this is what i do to the stock exhaust port-i run with the screens in them to try to keep anything from getting inside of them..(for instance a piece of sawdust that whirls around in the back of the truck-not likely but don't wanna take the chance) this one will still get cleaned up a bit and knock some fo the burrs off and repainted(first coat-usually do 2)
Koles046build018.jpg

and here are all of the ones that i painted today, and the one in the middle is one that was sandblasted and i didn't paint yet, just for reference, there is 2x066's in there and the rest are 044/46
Koles046build014.jpg


I'm using Dupli-Color HIGH HEAT w/CERAMIC. good for 1200*, ive had pretty good luck with it.
 
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looks great! I appreciate when people take the time to post stuff like this. Pics do a lot more than words. I kinda botched my first attempt at opening the muffler and removing the baffle on my 460. How about selling me one of your set ups? Looks like you do good work, I'd like to try one. :greenchainsaw:
 
Looking good! Your methods are fine - you've obviously been reading AS threads!

I'm not sure taking the entire box out (verses just drilling the end out) of the muffler makes a difference, but if it makes you feel better, ;)
 
i remove the whole box for Sawtroll's sake(it saves me a couple ounces) as for how the air moves through it..im not sure how much of a difference it makes..but i do it anyway
 
heaven

I counted 10 mufflers there. You've got your hands full right there my friend if your rebuilding 10 saws all at the same time. You might as well set up an assembly line.

I would be in heaven if I had ten 044/046's to rebuild/modify!LOL:greenchainsaw: :chainsaw: SI, you're doing a awesome job! You need some rep, but I'm out of bullets....
 
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nah..this is what ive got to work on(there are two in a bucket soaking in purple cleaner awaying more scrubbing, that is an ole C-7 homelite and an 051 in the back,-back at the farm ive got an028 super, 041, 575 husky, prolly an 056, 066 RL and i'm wanting to work over my 660, 2x460, 046BB, and continue work on my 066
degreeingmy066BB001.jpg
 
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Thanks, this is really helpful. I hope to be doing this soon and your pics have answered some of my questions. I heard of using an oven as well, but I wasn't sure about using a gas one. The heat gun looks like a good way to go.

I'll be watching for more...

AndyR
 
I like the convection oven approach as it doesn't allow stresss to build as with asymetical temperatures, and it is easy to set the exact temperature. Maybe my concern is unwarranted, but...


I just set the temp, set the timer, and I know the bearing will fit.
 
I like the convection oven approach as it doesn't allow stresss to build as with asymetical temperatures, and it is easy to set the exact temperature. Maybe my concern is unwarranted, but...


I just set the temp, set the timer, and I know the bearing will fit.


How about a heat gun and a tin foil lined box?
Didn't you post something about how to buil an oven with a foil lined box?


Looks good sILlogger. Nice work and good pics.
 
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